Thread: Tricks for a CA finish?

Alright, I tried applying a cyanoacrylate finish on cherry razor scales that I hand made. The only problem is that I used tons of thin layers of the glue, and the overall finish is still rather thin. So thin, in fact, that in my attempt to rub it out, I cut down to bare wood in patches. So are there any tips or tricks to make sure you get an even finish over the entire scale? I think this would help with rubbing out the finish.
Thanks

I found there's not a whole lot to do either than build up those thin layers. Every once in a while I'll sand through the CA in small parts and have to re-apply to some areas; and that's even with 10+ coats of CA. The only thing that makes CA easier is to make sure you apply a good load of layers first, to minimize the risk of sanding through. Applying extra layers is much less of a pain than the precarious situation of sanding through.

I know this is an old thread but I found this video, It is done on a lathe but maybe it can be applied to scales in a similar way. Hopefully it helps!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I-FXOsMR2tY

I have found that a thicker CA glue (Gel) seem to be easier to use. I do a few coats of very thin CA to seep in and fill/seal any cracks/voids using paper towels to apply. Gotta keep the towel moving or it will stick! Then I use a thicker CA like a Gel version and again use the paper towel to get a thicker coating. I leave it in a well ventilated area area that is dry to let it cure.

Originally Posted by taz575

I have found that a thicker CA glue (Gel) seem to be easier to use. I do a few coats of very thin CA to seep in and fill/seal any cracks/voids using paper towels to apply. Gotta keep the towel moving or it will stick! Then I use a thicker CA like a Gel version and again use the paper towel to get a thicker coating. I leave it in a well ventilated area area that is dry to let it cure.

I've only tried using a thin coating of CA and UT turned white and dried all weird, it was so bad that I would have had to sand down every coat and it wouldn't be worth it. Unless that's just common

EVERYTHING you need to know is right here:
http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...ints-tips.html

White film usually means high humidity or temps or applying over a layer that hasn't dried fully yet.

I tried the Gel stuff and it worked well to get thick layers after the thinner penetrating coats! Takes MUCH longer to cure though!

Originally Posted by taz575

White film usually means high humidity or temps or applying over a layer that hasn't dried fully yet.

I tried the Gel stuff and it worked well to get thick layers after the thinner penetrating coats! Takes MUCH longer to cure though!

I may need to get some better quality CA I've heard hot stuff is best and I was just using a cheap 4 pack of "super glu" from walmart. So glad I tried it on a scrap

I've had good results with the WoodCraft brand and the Hot Stuff brand. I also use the Super Glues for fletching arrows for my compound bow

Heres a tip for you CA guys (am not a fan of CA finishes) Tried it 10 yrs ago on scales and brushes,worked great,nice and shiny.
But make sure whatever wood you use is drop dead Dry,if not you will have issues down the road,JME