I think the way around that is to keep the scales in your hand with your finger supporting the back of the pin. I always use cutting oil and as soon as I feel any heat build up on the pin, I back off.
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And, do not use HF 1/16th inch dia. drills. They are not! They are a renamed metric that is close and can cause a problem in some weird cases and worst of all they are dull and often wander to the side.
Use what Glen says. Split tip drills. They are cheap enough and a local Fastenall can get them in a week and they are about $2 ea. MSC carries them also.
Get a half dozen!!!
~Richard
So brief summary is Quality bit. I use Home depot quality, Titanium if its there . Ace hardware brand also.
Score the area first.(Punch Pin)
Lubricate the work , but not slippery, sloppy, you want free flowing.
Push the work(scales) into the bit.
Finger behind backpin to feel heat and movement .
Go slow.
Also this is NOT the recommended way. You null and void the warranty. But if your going to walk that mile....
Best of luck, I am pulling for you, and a status report would be appreciated.
I have used the most dangerous tool around for straight razors...a dremel for removing pins. I have a round ball carbide bit that I use once and a while to remove the head and then tap through. Fair warning, any amount of pressure and the bit can gouge the scales quick...ask me how I know!
Personally I use flush cutters to slip under the peen and nip a bit, pin vise to start a dimple, and 1/16" punch very very carefully to push through enough to remove the scales. The press is faster but if that pin is warped you run a high risk of drilling through the side into the blade and scales, or lord forbid the scales just cracks at the hole. Slower is better imho here
Same here, :shrug: (Highly Polished Flush Cutters as not to mar the scales)
I thought we were all only talking about the maybe 20% that the flush cutters could not clip and punch in less then 30 seconds, I put a drop of Kroil on the just clipped side before punching the pin out, sometimes that means it basically slips out with just a light push...
Just came in from the shop, from popping 4 sets only 1 required using a pin vise, 2 slipped right out after clipping & Kroil and 1 needed clipping on both sides and working back and forth to release from the middle..
Many arrows in the pin popping quiver for this little Indian :p
Thanks pixel, I have not worked on a lathe or milling machine in over 30yrs. My grandfather was a master machinists and welder for more than 70yrs(he stared when he was 17 in the Navy) metal is in our blood. I do not have the equipment more the practice to go the bench route. I have decided to make a jig and use the pin vise for the removal and a second flat plate jig for the installation.