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Thread: Question about restoring using a power wheel and how to not over grind the spine area

  1. #1
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    Default Question about restoring using a power wheel and how to not over grind the spine area

    Hey guys, I have a question about doing restoration work using a power sander/grinder. I have a 6" variable speed grinder and I am using greaseless compound. First round is 80 grit. There is a lot of pitting on the blade. It is an H. Boker & Co. 5/8 Up until now, I have been using sandpaper and muscle grease but finally broke down and bought a wheel.
    When using a wheel, how does a person not damage or over grind the spine area. I have been trying to be extremely careful but on the left side I have removed too much of the spine. I have a feeling I might have ruined this wonderful, old Boker. Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated. Here are a few pics.
    I dismantled the razor. I think the scales are salvageable. The pins were nasty so I turfed them. The wedge is usable too. However I was a little over aggressive and fanned out the spin on the left side in the middle. Not sure if that is repairable or how to repair it. Also, the blade has a frown and again, don't know if it can be saved. It looks like the bevel at the heel has been taken out.
    Thoughts comments appreciated.
    Kind regards










  2. #2
    aka shooter74743 ScottGoodman's Avatar
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    They are great...but you must have a wheel for each grit.

    Remember, rotating equipment can snatch a razor out of your hands amazingly quick and then you have a relatively sharp object about to be ejected from the buffer in who knows what direction...
    Southeastern Oklahoma/Northeastern Texas helper. Please don't hesitate to contact me.
    Thank you and God Bless, Scott

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    shikano53 (02-03-2016)

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    illegitimum non carborundum Utopian's Avatar
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    Your third photo shows that you need to have the blade re-ground, on a grinder. Your effort with a buffer wheel has made it worse..

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    Quote Originally Posted by Utopian View Post
    Your third photo shows that you need to have the blade re-ground, on a grinder. Your effort with a buffer wheel has made it worse..
    Shooter, I have 2 wheels for each grit. 80, 120, 220, 320
    Utopian, thank you for the comment. Are you referring to taking the frown out of the blade and/or reshaping the spine as well? I have read a lot of threads and posts on bread knifing and I am wondering if that is the process you are referring to. Fire away with the critique, it's the only way I will learn as well as reading and watching the videos posted by the masters.
    Kindly

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    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    I just posted a before during and after set on a J Rodgers

    Pay particular attention to how I used the wheels, and avoided tearing up the original grind lines, and did NOT lose the stamps

    There are pressure tricks that you just have to learn over time but also how you use the wheels makes a big difference,,
    You have to try and follow the original lines to keep the razor in as good a shape as possible..
    Last edited by gssixgun; 02-03-2016 at 06:49 PM.

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    shikano53 (02-03-2016)

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    Quote Originally Posted by gssixgun View Post
    I just posted a before during and after set on a J Rodgers

    Pay particular attention to how I used the wheels, and avoided tearing up the original grind lines, and did NOT lose the stamps

    There are pressure tricks that you just have to learn over time but also how you use the wheels makes a big difference,,
    You have to try and follow the original lines to keep the razor in as good a shape as possible..
    Many thanks Dan! I will work away on it. I know it will take lots of time and practice. I will post as I learn.
    Chris

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