First razor restore project

I got a couple of old razors on eBay a couple of months ago with the intentions of restoring them. This one is in the best shape regarding corrosion. I got a pretty good edge on it and had a pretty nice shave this morning with it. The blade is 2.5" instead of the usual 3".

I plan to remove the handle. I can try to drill the pin out and save the handle but if I break it I don't care. I plan to get something else for the handle material. My first thought is kirinite. I've used it for knife handles and love working with it. I've made a couple of handles already and used a screw and pivot pin instead of the usual more permanent pins. This did require I drill the hole in the tang of one blade. I'm thinking this time I'll get some usual pins. Any info on how to do this? I'm sure there is. I'll look but suggestions are appreciated. Not to mention suggestions from personal experience.

Since I'll be polishing the blade I can't use tape to cover the edge. Should I dull it first? If I don't do something I know I'll cut myself.

I don't know how long this will take mainly because of how often I sit down to work on it. Here are two pictures of the razor before I do anything. Any help is greatly appreciated.
http://i800.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps077c14d0.jpg
http://i800.photobucket.com/albums/y...ps31925f45.jpg

I plan to file a flat spot on the pin head then drill the heat out so the pin can be removed. Any other suggestions? I have a drill press so it won't be done with a hand held drill.

Jack

Go to the Library on here.
Top of page and click tab.
or go here:Straight Razor Place Library - Straight Razor Place Library
There is SO MUCH info

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Chevhead

Go to the Library on here.
Top of page and click tab.
or go here:Straight Razor Place Library - Straight Razor Place Library
There is SO MUCH info

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Great post. I read an article on sanding the razor blade and tang. It was very helpful and I'm rarin to go. :) I plan to make the wooden tools Bruno (author) made for himself.

Thanks

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jack0458

Great post. I read an article on sanding the razor blade and tang. It was very helpful and I'm rarin to go. :) I plan to make the wooden tools Bruno (author) made for himself.

Thanks

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Well you know what they say.... :brunoisright

As far as the drill press I use a ball end bit to make a divot. Helps with the drill slidding.

Got the handle off with less trouble than I thought. I can reuse the scales if I want to. I ordered a set of scales with pivot pin and washers (inside and out) from Maggard Razors. I don't know the diameter of the pin (brass). The hole in the razor tang is 3/32". Hope I don't need to drill it bigger but I will if I have too. I will have to drill the holes in the scales. It looks like they come assembled at the rear end. As soon as they arrive I can put the razor back together instead of making my own set. I will still be doing that but right now I'm in a hurry. I'm very impatient sometimes. Also, since I got the pin drilled out so easily I don't worry about changing scales after I make a set. Just need extra pin material. Shoot. Should have ordered some when I ordered the scales. In the past I have used a pin and screw. This will be my first time peening a pivot pin. According to the article in the SRD library I will flare one end of the pin so it will hold the outside washer and insert it through the razor. Then there will be another washer on the outside. How much longer than the very outside of the washer should the pin be to create the same look on both sides. Or, do I really need washers on the outside? I have a small steel hammer. Do I need a ball peen hammer? I did read where someone (Bruno I think) polished the face of his hammer to avoid marring the pin. I may need a new one.

Here's a pic of the razor so far. It's not mirror by any means but that's ok. I'd put it together now if I had the scales. I may polish it more while waiting for the scales. There are some pits that I'm not worried about getting out right now. Leaves it with a "old razor" look. I got wet/dry sandpaper up to 2000 grit and I have some "micro mesh" pads that go from 1500 to 12000 grit. They are little squares with abrasive on both sides of a soft pad. It needs more work to look really good.

Blade at the moment. Sorry about the horrible photo. Funny though, it's prettier looking at it with my naked eye (old and half blind :)) than it is in the picture.
http://i980.photobucket.com/albums/a...psd73dea1d.jpg

I got the razor scales today and went to work. I must have hit the pin at an angle or something because it bent inside the razor. It is now together and it's as good as it can get until I get some more pin material. The razor I'm working with has a 2.5" blade so I can remove the pin and do it again when I get more pin material. I may even drill another hole farther from the end because there's lots of extra scale length. Or, I may have an extra pin/screw I can use. Not knowing how to put the pin in right reinforces my desire to use a pin/screw pivot.

Anyone have any tips on how to NOT bend the pin. Actually I bent it before trying to assemble the razor. The directions said to peen one end of the pin first. Trying to do this I bent the pin. I straightened it and bent it again 3 times. Then I cut it to the length needed and finally got one end to spread enough to hold the washer on. Then I put the pin through the scales/razor and started tapping on the other end. The pin bent inside the pivot. Maybe, if I were to have cut the 1" pin shorter first it may not have bent as easily. Also, the previous bending may have weakened it so it bent easier when peening the second end. Any thoughts of what I did wrong? Does peening pins take practice? I didn't foresee this problem at all. I can shave with the razor now but the tension is not consistent as I open the razor. The pivot tension is good when closed. When the razor is straight it is wobbly loose which makes it difficult to strop. When it is open in the shaving position it's snug but not snug enough. So I need to do this razor again. But I'd like to get tips on what anyone thinks I did wrong. Any ideas? Thanks.

Jack

Jack, It has been my experience that it is better to support the pin in a vise leaving about 1/16 exposed when peening the first end and remember...Lots and Lots of little taps.Attachment 189466

I hope this will help. I find Glen's videos very informative. He really is a wonderful teacher.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mmwvf8xLK

Here's one that Charlie did, it will show you some close-ups and a couple of tricks that he uses.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t3kno59xC4U

Thanks guys, especially the video. It showed me that not one step did I do correctly. This is encouraging because I can only get better. NO WAY I can do a worse job in the future. :) Here are some pictures of my finished job. The photo's aren't the best.

Best pin side.
http://i980.photobucket.com/albums/a...psa6d980b8.jpg

Other pin side. It's not as clear in the photo but you can see a little bit of the hole in the scale. I think I drilled the hole a little bigger than needed as well as the pin bending enlarged the hole a little.
http://i980.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps00bf92a2.jpg

This is my favorite. Betcha I'm the only one who can do a job just like this.
http://i980.photobucket.com/albums/a...psbbf9a323.jpg

Here is a picture of the razor as is. The only thing I'm happy about is since the blade is only 2.5" long I can remove it, drill a new hole and re-shape the pivot end of the handle. There's plenty of extra handle material. Therefore I can consider this a learning experience and go on. Another thing I did wrong was I used the flat side of the hammer head. In the video he uses the ball end. Live-n-learn. I also bought a 12 oz. hammer. Maybe I should get a lighter one. I only got a new hammer because all of mine (no ball peen) have marred surfaces and I read that could transfer the scratches to the pin. I think I bought the lightes hammer at Lowe's. Is a lighter one recommended or should I just get used to the one I bought.
http://i980.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps6a1c25b8.jpg

Is there a more desirable pin material for a newbie? Something softer perhaps for less hammering? OTOH, softer would mean more result from each tap so one little mistake would mean more damage than with a harder pin. Also, what are some of the better sites to buy razor part materials? I got this set of scales which came with the pin and washers from Maggard Razors. Any others out there you guys recommend? Thanks for any help.

Jack
PS
Got pictures of my grandson Jackson last night. Here is one. I won't put up any more because I know how terrible it is to be bombarded with family pics. Sorry about this one. Still excited. We got a bunch of great shots. We are making everyone else look at them also. :D
http://i980.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps281b8111.jpg

I struggled using 'The lightest hammer' that I could find locally. Then my good friend Glen said "Buy a chasing hammer, preferably with the rounded face".

Here's one;

Chasing Hammer 1” Domed Face Jewelry Metalwork Economy Crafts Hammer Jewelers | eBay

It might make all of the difference in the world. It sure did for me :tu

From looking at the pic for the end view of the pivot I would guess that the pin did bend and that's what's causing the V. Un-pin it and try again, this time think of 'Tap, Tap, Tap' not TAP, TAP, TAP.

Go slow, take your time, remember how Charlie was slowly rounding the pin by going round and round. Glen showed the same thing.

I hope this has been of some help :shrug:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by cudarunner

I struggled using 'The lightest hammer' that I could find locally. Then my good friend Glen said "Buy a chasing hammer, preferably with the rounded face".

Here's one;

Chasing Hammer 1” Domed Face Jewelry Metalwork Economy Crafts Hammer Jewelers | eBay

It might make all of the difference in the world. It sure did for me :tu

From looking at the pic for the end view of the pivot I would guess that the pin did bend and that's what's causing the V. Un-pin it and try again, this time think of 'Tap, Tap, Tap' not TAP, TAP, TAP.

Go slow, take your time, remember how Charlie was slowly rounding the pin by going round and round. Glen showed the same thing.

I hope this has been of some help :shrug:

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I was watching a lumberjack contest on tv once and they were hammering nails into the end of a log. Everyone would use one tap to get the nail set then get fingers out of the way and hammer it in. One guy consistently would tap the nail into the wood then with ONE more strike he'd have the head of the nail flush with the wood. The other contestants were obviously amazed as was I. I take it this is not the method to peen razor pins. :) I ordered that hammer so in a few days I'll be able to do professional quality work. :)

Jack

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Jack0458

I was watching a lumberjack contest on tv once and they were hammering nails into the end of a log. Everyone would use one tap to get the nail set then get fingers out of the way and hammer it in. One guy consistently would tap the nail into the wood then with ONE more strike he'd have the head of the nail flush with the wood. The other contestants were obviously amazed as was I. I take it this is not the method to peen razor pins. :) I ordered that hammer so in a few days I'll be able to do professional quality work. :)

Jack

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Jack:

A Chasing Hammer does not a Professional Make.

Take your time and learn from your successes and your mistakes! :tu

I did just that today. I've been trying to make a leather piece to hang from my belt to hold my keys and after 4 attempts I finally got it right. Well as right as it will ever be here at the Boars Nest.

Sanfte Rasur, mein Klingenbruder!

(Smooth Shaving My Brother In Blades)

Roy

I have scales rough cut to shape. I have a piece of the same material (kirinite) to use as the spacer at the rear of the handle. On a previous handle I glued the rear of the handle together. No pin. I assembled the pivot with scales, razor and washers with a screw pivot. Then I used epoxy to assemble the other end. I could slide the pieces back and forth to center the blade between the scales then clamp them until the glue set. Is there a reason pinning the rear end of the handle is preferable? Thanks.

Jack

Got new pin material and did much better this time. Thanks for the help and the video. I had to cut the end of the handle off. Looks terrible but this handle is just practice. I can shave with it though. The tension is good. It closes a little bit off center so I'm going to look at the video again. He talked a little about hitting the pin a certain way to get the blade centered. This is the razor with a 2.5" blade.
http://i980.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps9b0cdc6f.jpg

Also made another handle for my Dovo razor. I used kirinite, mother of pearl pattern. I'm pretty happy with this handle.
http://i980.photobucket.com/albums/a...psdda6a524.jpg

I have some red kirinite to replace the buggered up handle on the 2.5" blade razor.