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02-21-2015, 10:38 PM #1
My Dream Blade...Can I Save the Etching?
I have wanted an old Greaves wedge with blonde horn scales for a while, and finally got one. It has a beautiful etching on the blade that I would like to save all the while making it shine again. I have only worked with clean blades and blades with stamped words, so this will be the first time with this type of etching.
What techniques will safely remove the crud while preserving the etching? I have up to 2000 grit sandpaper, all types of lapping film, red and green polishing compound, and metal glo. The last thing I want to do is remove the etching by starting with something too aggressive. I would appreciate some guidance from those of you who are more experienced.
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02-21-2015, 11:16 PM #2
Hand polishing only I think
But I will watch and learn also for this trickSaved,
to shave another day.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Substance For This Useful Post:
DocMartin0321 (02-22-2015)
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02-22-2015, 12:21 AM #3
I'm no expert, but I'd say you can have a shiny blade with no etching, or a not shiny with an etching. IMHO if you take sandpaper to it, no matter how fine, you'll degrade the etching, and by the time you get past the corrosion, you'll have lost it.
Years ago I bought a Winchester M-97 shotgun from a pawn shop. Original blue was still good, but a patina of light rust on the barrel. The old guy who sold it to me, must have been at least 50 ............told me that if I took Break Free and 0000 steel wool. Spray the metal with a thin coat and lightly, like stroking a baby or a cat, rub the metal one way, not back and forth.
He said if I did it right I'd remove the rust without taking off the blue. With that blade I imagine you could apply more pressure than I could with that blued barrel. Anyway, I followed his advice. Another thing he suggested was not to try to get it all in a sitting.
Five minutes, ten minutes at a time. That was to avoid frustration which might induce more pressure. On that blued barrel that would have been bright metal in a hurry. Anyway, I don't know if that will do it for you, but might be worth a try.Be careful how you treat people on your way up, you may meet them again on your way back down.
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The Following User Says Thank You to JimmyHAD For This Useful Post:
DocMartin0321 (02-22-2015)
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02-22-2015, 01:18 AM #4
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02-22-2015, 02:48 AM #5
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02-22-2015, 12:57 AM #6
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Thanked: 4830I just had a quick look but did not find it, but Geezer recently had a thread on this very subject. Perhaps someone can find it for us.
It's not what you know, it's who you take fishing!
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02-22-2015, 03:24 AM #7
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Chevhead For This Useful Post:
DocMartin0321 (02-22-2015), RezDog (02-22-2015)
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02-22-2015, 03:55 AM #8
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Thanked: 4830You da man Ed. I was way off in my search wording.
It's not what you know, it's who you take fishing!
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02-22-2015, 04:17 AM #9
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Thanked: 3215That is a very old blade, with a nice etch. If it was me I would not do anything to it, until you are absolutely positive how to proceed and do the least damage to the etching.
Once you start removing steel, you can never put it back on.
You might want to contact Voidmonster, he is an avid pre 1900 razor collector and has been researching how to restore and re-etch, very old etching.
Nice find,
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The Following User Says Thank You to Euclid440 For This Useful Post:
DocMartin0321 (02-22-2015)
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02-27-2015, 05:07 AM #10
So I had an old peerless that had some great gold etching on it but I could not for the life of me get near the minor rusting. I cleaned out the pin holes and the tang as much as I could and then just used the razor on a regular basis. It is now nice and shiny and there are small rust marks but they are disappearing. It seems that using the razor worked for me.
Last edited by Crackers; 02-27-2015 at 05:40 AM.
A good lather is half the shave.
William Hone