I read on a forum (I think it was shave nook) that Mothers' mag polish had better results on blades with etching than other polishes by hand.
has any one here used Mother's mag polish ? what where your reslts?
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I read on a forum (I think it was shave nook) that Mothers' mag polish had better results on blades with etching than other polishes by hand.
has any one here used Mother's mag polish ? what where your reslts?
I like Blue Magic better as it is less abrasive and therefore less likely to remove the etch (provided I am trying to save it of course). That being said Mothers is less abrasive than flitz, Maas, or simichrome so it is a better option than they are for etched blades IMO.
Attachment 198951Attachment 198950
here's the one I am tring to clean the blade up , no rust just darkening
and the entire etching is there not just the circle with the 'B' in it.
The second picture I took, the first was from the ad that shows the etching better than the photo I took
That looks like a nice, fairly deep etching. I don't think you have to worry about it with any of the hand polishes mentioned above. If anything they may may not be aggressive enough for that blade in my opinion. It really just depends on what you want to accomplish with it.
You could probably use 0000 steel wool on that, perhaps even more coarse than that, although the more coarse will leave visible scratching that will need to be polished with the 0000 in the end. You can finish off with the mothers. Black marks often hide very shallow pitting. It is a nice deep etch.
Even with polish there will be some softening of the edges on the etch if you over do it.
I have found Blue Magic gentler than Mothers as well.
thx, is 0000, steel wool the same steel you find in the cleaning section at te store that is commonly used to clean dishes?Quote:
Originally Posted by Hart
also I have 220 grid is that much harsher than 0000 steel wool ?
Steel wool grades.Quote:
Originally Posted by whoever
I worked an etching recently and used diamond lapping film and a cork.
If the 220 you mention is sandpaper, then it is waaaay to harsh for your purposes.
Attachment 199151
not done, still need to go pick up neatfeet
Attachment 199164
here is a hair line crack in the scale, that does not go all the way through, Is there anything i can do to repair this without unpinning or bracking all the way to repair it or, am I better off waiting until it brakes, ?
I cannot see the crack or am not sure if what I m looking at is the crack. It does not matter though because the solution is the same. Take a needle and give it the lightest of scrapes to clean as much as you can, right inside the crack. Be very careful and use little to no pressure. Fill it with crazy glue and let it dry and then carefully cut the excess away with a razor blade when it has dried. No telling how long it will last with or without that, but I like to think it helps.
well it could be a hair line crack , it is from the piviot pin to the tail, its so narrow i don't think and Ca would get inside the "crack" if that is what I am seeing
Whether it's a penetrating crack or the edge of a layer lifting off, doing what Rezdog suggests is the best course of action. Very gentle scraping will remove some of the dirt darkening the edge and open it slightly. When you apply the ca it will be drawn part way into the crack. You can help this by applying gentle lifting pressure with a pin. You don't need much to stabilize the crack. Once it drys you can shave and sand it smooth. You will still see it but it won't get any worse.
I have dry sanded, collected the dust, and used it with the CA to hide the crack with some success in the past. Nothing will make it look brand new but the dust makes it barely visible.
I like Flitz, for non-abrasive polishing, but with etching like yours I would first clean the rest of the blade with 0000 steel wool wrapped around a wood coffee stir stick or popsicle stick, with the end clipped straight and work around the etch. Then glue a piece of craft foam over the end of the stick and do the same with small piece of 600 wet and dry and work up to 2k.
If you are careful you can work around the etch with the 2k or lapping film. Lapping film works great. Look up Geezers post on darkening and polishing etch with gun cold blue.
I recently bought some Neetsfoot at a local Ace Hardware. I brush it on heavy with a small brush that will get between the scales, then store in a zip lock bag adding more each day or two until it stops absorbing. Depends on how dry they are.
the crack looks like it is right next to or justunder the washer for that pivot pin, so unless there is something I am missing , if i want to repair/hide/stableize it, i would have to unpin.Quote:
Originally Posted by Steel
thx, I ended up cutting scotch tape to block the etching
thx, could you post the link I am haveing trouble finding it I search for geezor darken ecthing , and the results are from people that ask about doing it. but not a thread started by him.
Heres Geezer's thread
Here
so if i understand it correctly,
citrus wash, could be vinager, i assume its more to clean the metel first)
then a wash with acetone, Amazon.com : super nail Pure Acetone, 16 Fluid Ounce : Nail Polish Removers : Beauty will this work ?
clean up .3 mecon film http://www.amazon.com/Microfinishing...+lapping+stone
is the above correct ? if not correct in assumption as to why and or what product to use please correct.
I noticed there was not a length of time on either wash , should there be?
also would the .3 micron film be the end of the polishing or could i still use Maas/ or mothers (just asking so i don't have to do this twice)
also couldn't I do this a little backwards and apply the stuff wiith a q-tip, since we already know where the ecthing is i insthead of having to bath the entire blade?
The purpose of the wash is to remove all traces of oil and prepare the surface to accept the bluing. Once you have it prepped and dried it, the bluing is applied and then removed on the high spots, the reason that the .3 micron film is used instead of polish is so that it does not go down into the grooves of the etch and pull the bluing out. If you use polish it will remove more of the bluing than you really want.
did I mangage to link the correct products since I have also discovered the neatsfeed I have is not the best for soaking, so just tring to prevent buying things twice here
If the bluing is what is renewing the etching and all steps before are to prep for the bluing, than would I only need the acetone, bluing and micon lapping film?
Do, i use the .3 micron untill its as shinny as i want or would do anything in adition to the .3 micon film?Quote:
Originally Posted by RezDog
you are essentially using the .3 micron to remove the bluing from around the etch. You can polish as much or a little as you want
newest Attachment 199744
link to hi-res http://prntscr.com/6z1jbu
I do envy those scales. The blade looks good.
Thanks, something seems off or missing with the blade IMO
It's not the best photo but I don't see anything wrong, it looks great. With original scales and preserved etch, you can't be too critical either.Quote:
Originally Posted by whoever
Your right, its the little things I see that the camera doesn't . thervis still some bluing left around the etch. And yes I could deffinetly had better scenery to make for a better pic.
Where do you find blue magic? I didn't see it at the local Wal Mart.
AtQuote:
Originally Posted by dickpicnic
The auto parts store, Advanced auto patrst, auto zone
... and after the neatfeet rubdown
Attachment 200604
Quote:
Originally Posted by RezDog
Attachment 200632 is this a better pic of the hair line crack, i have tried to see if a pin head would catch the side but no, would that mean that the "crack" is not a crack/has already been stabilized?
Horn is ver fibreus and it could mean that the crack is internal and has not made it to the surface. Horn is funny, if the crack is not open and not moving just leave it. It may last a very long time or open up or break tomorrow. I have a Fredderick Reynolds with a similar crack at the wedge. It may be open on the inside but to glue it requires the razor be unpinned and then re-pinned, which is a higher risk of breakage. Unless you really want fancy new scales, as long as it is functional it is fine.
Thx, right as well let seeping dogs lie.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RezDog
Thx, might as well let seeping dogs lie.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RezDog
