Thread: Any preferences for replacement scales? Favorite shapes?

What are your favorite types of SR scales? Rounded, Squared, Pointed, Triangular Ends, W&B chopper style? Rounded or beveled edges?

Are there any functional reasons why you would choose certain shapes, or is just personal preference?? If you have pictures of any factory or custom scales you really like, that would work too. Thanks

It all depends on size of blade or if you are matching original scales. Then it is what appeals to you.

Tradtional shapes using traditional materials,JMO

Originally Posted by pixelfixed

Traditional shapes using traditional materials,JMO

Thanks. I understand that. I bought some wood to make some scales out of (and I think figured wood scales are beautiful), but I REALLY wish I had gotten some black horn blanks to make some that match the originals.

There was a time some years back that there was quite a bit of competition between the 3-4 restorers that were on SRP to come up with "New" shapes and ideas...

Most of us gravitated back to the more traditional shapes, and used other ways of making them unique..

Or as the saying goes Function - Fit - and finally Form not the other way around

The shapes have to work for balance, and function, especially when stropping,,,, Personally I like the W&B and DD flared wedge end with a matching pivot end, it seems to me like a good strong design

I'm really gung ho about using the correct scale type for vintage blades. If you want a twist, go with different materials I say

Originally Posted by bouschie

It all depends on size of blade or if you are matching original scales. Then it is what appeals to you.

Yeah, I know what I like. I was wondering what YOU preferred. Have you ever liked a set of scales on one razor more than others?
I'm partial to the W&B chopper style that are almost square at the toe and taper to a near point at the pivot. On the smaller razor scales I like the ones like I've seen on some Greaves where the arching lines come to a point on each end.

Originally Posted by JP5

Yeah, I know what I like. I was wondering what YOU preferred. Have you ever liked a set of scales on one razor more than others?
I'm partial to the W&B chopper style that are almost square at the toe and taper to a near point at the pivot. On the smaller razor scales I like the ones like I've seen on some Greaves where the arching lines come to a point on each end.

Here is one I'm waiting for from Jared. "Pointy & Choppy". ☺
5/8 Wostenholm w/Buffalo horn & Brass wedge.
(Clipped from his post. I'll do some when it arrives)

Originally Posted by JDM61

The bad news is that some of the original scale materials are either hard or impossible to get "new" (or at all), can't even be sold legally in some places or have some quirks that make them unsuitable.

Now I'm kind of wondering how snapping turtle shell would look.

Originally Posted by lethalgraphix

Here is one I'm waiting for from Jared. "Pointy & Choppy". ☺
5/8 Wostenholm w/Buffalo horn & Brass wedge.
(Clipped from his post. I'll do some when it arrives)

Nice. Thanks for the picture. I like the shape of the toe and the wedge pin in the corner.

Glen already mentioned it in passing - but for me, one of the most important design requirements is that the tang fits properly into the scales when fully opened for stropping - you can make sure this is OK be designing the scales against an outline of the razor, then rotate them 180 degrees and see where the tang sits.

Another very important point is the amount of overhang after the pivot pin - if you use a tapered wedge your scales will have a bow, consequently the material overhanging the pivot pin begins to narrow, bringing the scales towards each other. When fully open, the tang still has to be able to fit between this area - as it is wider than at the pivot, you run the risk of weakening the scales at the pivot pin. The picture above seems to avoid that problem because the tang looks relatively even - however, a more tapered tang would be a problem.

Incidentally, if you have encountered scales that are tight when open at 180 degrees but looser when closed, take a look at the amount of overhang as it may be the reason.