Duh! Centering blades.

Beating your brains out sometimes gives a solution if you don't wreck something first!:rofl2:

Having fits attempting to get an old Griffon centering in some bone scales. Way off-center! Spacers here, there, enlarging pin holes a bit.
Then I thought 'Wish I had some wedge-shaped spacers'. Then I thought, 'I would have to superglue them down, otherwise they would spin and things would be wonkey again!'.

Like a true genius, I roughed them up on a piece of sandpaper, superglued them down and tapered them with my sanding stick. One this way, one that!

Worked a champ! I have messed with tangs and scales constantly to correct this. Why did I not think of it before? :banghead: I have CA'd spacers to lots of bone and ivory in the past. It never crossed my mind!
I have not seen anyone else do it. NOW you guys are gonna tell me you have been doing it for years! :p


Attachment 199797Attachment 199798Attachment 199799

Haven't done that. Did straighten a couple of tangs but this just might be easier.

Bob

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Originally Posted by BobH

Haven't done that. Did straighten a couple of tangs but this just might be easier.

Bob

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Probably not a miracle for some, but worked good here. A tiny bit at the pivot translates to a lot at the tip! As an experiment, I even added a thin spacer to each side and it still centers.
Might be handy if it makes a tang or tail hit the scale

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Originally Posted by sharptonn

I have not seen anyone else do it. NOW you guys are gonna tell me you have been doing it for years! :p

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Nahh not me. :) I just relieve the inside of the scales a little that way it doesn't matter if the washers spin.

You can also just sand the inside of the scale and then use a washer like you normally would. Or you can sand the tang right around the pivot. I do like you method, though.

So simple. :tu

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Originally Posted by sharptonn

Probably not a miracle for some, but worked good here. A tiny bit at the pivot translates to a lot at the tip! As an experiment, I even added a thin spacer to each side and it still centers.
Might be handy if it makes a tang or tail hit the scale

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Yup, that is better than taking a chance on shattering a razor. Did that once too straightening a tang.

Bob

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Originally Posted by onimaru55

Nahh not me. :) I just relieve the inside of the scales a little that way it doesn't matter if the washers spin.

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I have certainly cobbed up some scales doing that. Don't have the touch! Some sort of woodworking mill with a pilot would be nice. Take an angle and dig in! Saw a fella do that here once. IF ca will stick to your scales, it seems great because you can sand a bit at a time and reassemble with microfasteners to test. Apart, a bit more.
I figure if it gets really thin in the process, another thin washer won't be noticible, and the thing would never spin

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Originally Posted by holli4pirating

You can also just sand the inside of the scale and then use a washer like you normally would. Or you can sand the tang right around the pivot. I do like you method, though.

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Sanding the scale inside is where I have a problem!:rofl2:
Some old razors may need a combination of the 2!

simple is good tc

As long as the glue holds your good to go. I usually just sand the scales until it works with test pins. If it gets off when pinning then the hammer trick (front of 1 pin back of the other) does it.

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Originally Posted by 10Pups

As long as the glue holds your good to go. I usually just sand the scales until it works with test pins. If it gets off when pinning then the hammer trick (front of 1 pin back of the other) does it.

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Well aren't you the lucky dog! :D Seldom works for me. I reckon I get the wonkyest scales and blades of anyone!
I figure as long as the razor is pinned tightly, the CA will never let go until the bone crumbles under it.
If pinned tightly, BOTH sides would have to have let go in order for anything to move. Even then, the stiffness of the bone would not allow it. Hammer trick would not have fixed this! ...Puleeeeeeeze! :rofl2:

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Originally Posted by sharptonn

Sanding the scale inside is where I have a problem!:rofl2:
Some old razors may need a combination of the 2!

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I use a dremel with one of those round burrs & grind the front of one side of the pivot hole & back of the other to tilt the blade on assembly.. Only do an area the size of the washer tho & not deep. As you said a few thou at the pivot makes for a lot of change at the wedge end.

Just to be clear, I grind at the scales not the razor tang.

Really skewed blades can hit the scales with the tail on fully opening. I have resorted to bending the tail a little in that case &/or even a bit of judicious grinding.

Tool spoken of, Counterbore:
Attachment 199830
Available in different sizes and different guide tips. The drill bit was and illustration but any thing of the pilot diameter will work. Allen wrench is for fixing the pilot into pace.
~Richard

I dunno. Methinks Sirs Richard and OZ would do well to give it a go. Blew my mind (which is ,albeit small!). :D

Sorry was speaking in general. I know what you mean by stiff bone :<0) The last wonky 1 I did was in horn. The pin went through at a 45 almost and the horn looked like a dog leg. Lucky (as you say) the tang bend matched perfectly. I was going to straighten it all out but didn't know where to start. It closed without hitting so,,,
And I usually don't use the hammer trick if I go through the trouble of sanding out the inside of the scales. Your method sounds a lot like mine I just sand before putting the washer in ?

I will do the same thing as posted above by using a dremel with a grinding bit and tilt the bit so it bites deeper on one side of the hole than the other and do the opposite on the other scale.

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Originally Posted by JSmith1983

I will do the same thing as posted above by using a dremel with a grinding bit and tilt the bit so it bites deeper on one side of the hole than the other and do the opposite on the other scale.

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Well. Instead of all that, try adhering a spacer (thick or thin, as-needed) And working the spacer, instead of the scales, or blade.
May surprise you. The spacer can be cut off with care Using a utility SE blade, and things sanded and begun again.
Different program if you have ground upon the scales or tang.

Okay , I see the insurance factor now :<0) SOLD !

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Originally Posted by 10Pups

Okay , I see the insurance factor now :<0) SOLD !

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I will send an invoice! :rofl2:

The main thing that it stands firmly and the end result pleases. Good decision.

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Originally Posted by Geezer

Tool spoken of, Counterbore:
Attachment 199830
Available in different sizes and different guide tips. The drill bit was and illustration but any thing of the pilot diameter will work. Allen wrench is for fixing the pilot into pace.
~Richard

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Maybe I'm being dim here Richard - but I don't get the point that you are making with the counterbore. How o you propose using it in relation to Tom's idea of creating a wedge shaped washer?

The end is flat. If the pivot hole is the same size as the centering pilot, the device may be held at some angle to the scale and thereby make a controlled ramp angle on which to set a normal washer. Best to have the scale in plasticine at the correct angle and use a pillar drill. Or best, even, turned by hand while held in a chuck.
~Richard

I see what your sayin, thats similar to how i did my torrey geezerAttachment 199976
But i counter sunk the micro screws and washers. Two between the tang and scales.Attachment 199977

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Geezer

Tool spoken of, Counterbore:
Attachment 199830
Available in different sizes and different guide tips. The drill bit was and illustration but any thing of the pilot diameter will work. Allen wrench is for fixing the pilot into pace.
~Richard

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Reverse the bit, using the smooth portion of the shank as a bushing, or a piece of rod, file off the spurs, so just the flats are cutting and use by hand I think would work well.

Good idea Richard…