So we did pretty well on the anvil SOTD's, eh? EH?
I had 2 ask me if I painted that on the front of mine! Had to confess that was the reflection of a confederate rose next to it!
Shiny! :rofl2:
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So we did pretty well on the anvil SOTD's, eh? EH?
I had 2 ask me if I painted that on the front of mine! Had to confess that was the reflection of a confederate rose next to it!
Shiny! :rofl2:
I thought the foliage reflection was intentional. Anyway, it was creative composition and I really like the kamisori sticking through the hole in the anvil.
Nice SOTDs overall from the anvil crowd!
Lol that's funny, I thought you painted it as a joke! Was thinking "that Tom sure is an artistic guy! But now he is going to need to remove all that paint... I wonder if he is an old-school hippie? Hmm Texas... hippie... a cowboy hippie! Well NOW I've seen it all!"
Then I realized it was a reflection... I must admit that I was disappointed Tom, I thought you were special!" LMAO
I have been enjoying this thread...a lot!
Now that you guys have the really good tools and experience; here is a tool, bought used, that makes some real sense for renewal of blades.
Attachment 215903
The various contoured rubber pads with abrasive sheet wrapped around, reciprocate end to end,which makes them great for removing perpendicular scratches and some modification of grind lines along the blade. Neat, also, for cleaning up a spine!
Available new, sometimes, at outlet stores and used on the 'bay and Craigslist for a lot less cost. Available with speed control or not.
I use standard wet/dry paper and just wrap a piece around the contour pad. I bought an extra set of pads from the 'bay for insurance. My first one was single speed so I bought the HF "Router Speed Control" which also works with other brush type motors.
~Richard
Dremel 6000 and others by Porter Cable, all by Dremel
That is a cool time saver Richard. Have been looking for one. I have the hand held contour pads like available in the kit as purchased from lee Valley Tools. Lots of different profiles available in the bag I bought. But the reciprocating action of that tool allowing the user to keep his hands and pressure focused, very cool.Quote:
Originally Posted by Geezer
Thanks for sharing.
You weren't wrong dude..Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeT
:borg:
I used to remove metal from the face of the blade, bringing the lower hone wear line to the upper hone wear line, thus removing the hone wear bevel. I no longer do this for two reasons:
1. Even though slight, it lowers the angle of the cutting edge bevel. This creates a wider bevel, so to minimize this i bring the top line down from the spine.
2. It is easier to remove the metal from the spine and round it off to look good. The face of the blade is a larger surface that takes more work to make uniform.
Before I realized this, I spent countless hours fussing over that edge and it was never as sharp of a line as I wanted.
After working the face, the spine should be the last step. I've found hand sanding that line the best way to give that line clean definition.
Try it if you are not already following those steps, I think that you will be happy with the results and ease..
Yes! Taking some from the top, some from the bottom as well is necessary on some. Depends on how much hone wear.
Always leaving the original hone wear intact in a thinner manner changes nothing except the look. JMO
Aright den, a question on hand polishes: has anyone ranked the polishes, kind of like a grit rating for polishes? I have only used Simichrome and Maas.
Come to think of it I think I have a buffing kit for a die grinder around here somewhere because I came across it awhile back. It just might have some better little wheels in it that would fit my Dremel. I need to find it. I had never used it yet but bought it a few years back. I bought it for scratches on Harley's.
Yes, the anvil displays in the SOTD did well. I tried to get mine done asap since I haven't been 100% myself but I don't think I did too bad. Outback Mike deserves all the credit for the anvils!
