Restoring a Joseph Allen Non XLL

Following on from the hinge play thread, I'm going to post the progress of restoring this Joseph Allen & Sons Non XLL.

This is my first more extensive restoration, so I'm anticipating some mistakes, but hoping to minimise them with advice offered here! I previously did the leg work on a Bengall razor, and had Oz repin it and hone it and tidy it up.

On this project I'd like to keep the antique character of the blade (no chrome shines here). I want to do some light blade work, and darken the etching, learn to pin it, and then have it honed properly.

I'll post some pictures when i can.

http://i.imgur.com/BCgy0zS.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/9WSfF0x.jpg

Clean scales and no rust.

To take it apart I ground off the pin heads on an emery wheel (carefully holding my breath - all I had!) and slipped a knife edge under what was left of the washer.

Managed to do it without trashing the scales.

http://i.imgur.com/Hwsj9DF.jpg

Found that the hole is enormous, and has a hard edge that's worn the pin half way through.

http://i.imgur.com/7dqrUcE.jpg


So what's the best way to polish up the blade while keeping it authentic looking?
WD40 and a cloth? Maybe some fine sand paper too?

You can start with wd40 and 0000 steel wool. It will at least get the grime off. You have sweet shaver there. I have a few all take a keen comfortable edge.

nonick, are you going to sleeve the pivot pin hole? Looks like a dandy of a razor for your first full restore. +1 on keeping the character!

WW243 I was thinking about filling it with epoxy resin. Actually just a two part solution clear drying. That stuff drys hard and tough, is suitable for sanding and drilling and cheap and available.
Doesn't look so nice but no one will see - the other option would be to peen brass into the hole and drill it out. Looks classier I guess. I doubt the epoxy would ever fail though

Quote:

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Originally Posted by nonick

WW243 I was thinking about filling it with epoxy resin. Actually just a two part solution clear drying. That stuff drys hard and tough, is suitable for sanding and drilling and cheap and available.
Doesn't look so nice but no one will see - the other option would be to peen brass into the hole and drill it out. Looks classier I guess. I doubt the epoxy would ever fail though

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Sharptonn uses the sleeve of a pop rivet for the misshapen tang holes...not sure of his process, or if would be relevant for your purposes...sounds like epoxy will work.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by WW243

Sharptonn uses the sleeve of a pop rivet for the misshapen tang holes...not sure of his process, or if would be relevant for your purposes...sounds like epoxy will work.

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Going to try the pop rivet trick on the FBU I'm working on now. Used to fill in the hole with powdered CA and redrill. The pop rivet sounds much more forgiving and easier to install.

Cleaned up the blade with a bit of inox and 800 then 1200 sand paper. It tidied up nicely, leaving some patina and looking like it's held it's age well, without trying to pretend it's still young.

http://i.imgur.com/1Rz3OJt.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/u1vDuBR.jpg

Used vinegar to darken the etching. Applied with an ear bud, left for five minutes, rinsed off with water, and sanded back easily with 1200 paper.

http://i.imgur.com/d9HP6C2.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/NRyF8sB.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/Iu4FfDG.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/UahdDxQ.jpg

This is coming along nicely - I'd never come across the use of vinegar on etchings before. One tip - on the final rounds of wet and dry, go spine to edge so that the scratch marks are more in keeping with how the blade would have been ground and polished originally.

Good idea UKRob, I have to do a final polish with autosol so I'll do that

Very clever on the vinegar use I will keep that in mind. Thanks

Quote:

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Originally Posted by nonick

Used vinegar to darken the etching. Applied with an ear bud, left for five minutes, rinsed off with water, and sanded back easily with 1200 paper.

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Thanks for the tip, I often wondered how to do that. Great technique for darkening stamps. Have some blades that could use that.

Vinegar works, but will not last, try some cold bluing, for better lasting etches darkening. Geezer had a good post on applying and polishing, a while back.

You might want to think about a Satin finish, look up some of Wolfpack34 finished Sheffield’s’, it looks good on old razors. Yours is in good shape, take your time and use a large flexable backer 6mm foam and a cork, take it to 2k then Crocus Cloth.

For next time, try drilling the pins and saving the old collars, you can get the old ones and they do have character. Ajkenned4xm3 on EBay has some very nice reproductions

Good tip on the cold bluing. I have tried it myself with some success.
what grit of crocus cloth would you suggest after the 2k to achieve a satin finish?

Nice work on the Non Xll's NoNick..
Love the NonXll's.
Cheers.

Here is the etching renewal thread:
revealing-etchings
~Richard
PS I have learned, now, to blue the whole blade so that there is no shadow on it after sanding and polishing.

I use the fine, from Ace Hardware, sells for $2 per 9X11inch sheet, cut into 3X3 squares. A piece last a long long time.

After a 2k finish, back a cork with a 3X3 x6mm craft foam and do spine to edge strokes, over lapping about a ½ inch. Mike, Woldpack34 is the master of the satin finish. Look up some of his post and drool.