Thread: Restoring a Joseph Allen Non XLL

Following on from the hinge play thread, I'm going to post the progress of restoring this Joseph Allen & Sons Non XLL.

This is my first more extensive restoration, so I'm anticipating some mistakes, but hoping to minimise them with advice offered here! I previously did the leg work on a Bengall razor, and had Oz repin it and hone it and tidy it up.

On this project I'd like to keep the antique character of the blade (no chrome shines here). I want to do some light blade work, and darken the etching, learn to pin it, and then have it honed properly.

I'll post some pictures when i can.

Clean scales and no rust.

To take it apart I ground off the pin heads on an emery wheel (carefully holding my breath - all I had!) and slipped a knife edge under what was left of the washer.

Managed to do it without trashing the scales.



Found that the hole is enormous, and has a hard edge that's worn the pin half way through.




So what's the best way to polish up the blade while keeping it authentic looking?
WD40 and a cloth? Maybe some fine sand paper too?

You can start with wd40 and 0000 steel wool. It will at least get the grime off. You have sweet shaver there. I have a few all take a keen comfortable edge.

nonick, are you going to sleeve the pivot pin hole? Looks like a dandy of a razor for your first full restore. +1 on keeping the character!

WW243 I was thinking about filling it with epoxy resin. Actually just a two part solution clear drying. That stuff drys hard and tough, is suitable for sanding and drilling and cheap and available.
Doesn't look so nice but no one will see - the other option would be to peen brass into the hole and drill it out. Looks classier I guess. I doubt the epoxy would ever fail though

Originally Posted by nonick

WW243 I was thinking about filling it with epoxy resin. Actually just a two part solution clear drying. That stuff drys hard and tough, is suitable for sanding and drilling and cheap and available.
Doesn't look so nice but no one will see - the other option would be to peen brass into the hole and drill it out. Looks classier I guess. I doubt the epoxy would ever fail though

Sharptonn uses the sleeve of a pop rivet for the misshapen tang holes...not sure of his process, or if would be relevant for your purposes...sounds like epoxy will work.

Originally Posted by WW243

Sharptonn uses the sleeve of a pop rivet for the misshapen tang holes...not sure of his process, or if would be relevant for your purposes...sounds like epoxy will work.

Going to try the pop rivet trick on the FBU I'm working on now. Used to fill in the hole with powdered CA and redrill. The pop rivet sounds much more forgiving and easier to install.

Cleaned up the blade with a bit of inox and 800 then 1200 sand paper. It tidied up nicely, leaving some patina and looking like it's held it's age well, without trying to pretend it's still young.

Used vinegar to darken the etching. Applied with an ear bud, left for five minutes, rinsed off with water, and sanded back easily with 1200 paper.