Razor scales - Let's get creative!

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11-12-2015, 12:36 AM
Srdjan

3 Attachment(s)

Razor scales - Let's get creative!

As Movember is long underway and I have not been shaving much, figured I'd post this bit of work I've done for fun a while ago. Several people found these scales interesting and have wondered what they are and how they were made. Some people have seen them temp-mounted on blades and asked: "Why aren't these permanent???".

I will give as much explanation of the process, as I can. Sadly I don't have many pictures anymore, but the ones below should do just fine.

Well anyway, for now they remain my test scales, I have no desire to peen any razor in them. Who knows, maybe when I run out of wood, horn, bone, G10...
I hope you find this at least a little inspiring and of course, feel free to share your own ideas and creations. Rock on! :rock:

Attachment 218376
Fig 1. - Just ordinary celluloid scales

In this step you will need..... A decent pair of celluloid scales duh!

Attachment 218375
Fig 2.a. - Left: The easy part (the beginning).
Fig 2.b. - Right: Mid-process checkpoint

2.a. Steps to get here apply to both sides, of course. This was done using an accu drill (hand held), a few bigger drill bits and a burr bit, a can of matte spray paint and some sand paper. Let's assume the drill bits were 10mm and 5mm, or approx 3/8" and 3/16". The burr bit was one of those 5-10mm ones and sandpaper used was probably 400-800 grit.

I took the drill and created shallow dents with drill bits at first. Then I went on to deform those dents with a burr bit. Also created random lines, flecks, bites on the sides, etc. I then proceeded to paint the surface with my matte spray. Glossy spray may work, but I figured at this stage I wanted the entire surface to have the same look - so matte. I was going to let the CA alone give it the final, finished look. After they had dried at this stage, I took the sandpaper and lightly sanded off the surface. This removed everything but the paint in the dents, of course. After I was happy with the finish, I moved on to the fun part.

2.b. To get here I needed: thin, or medium CA, ebony and cocobolo dust, two separate mixing containers, something thin to mix with, protective latex gloves and some kitchen towels (paper, like the toilet paper kind). The wood dust was created with 800 grit paper. I then proceeded to mix it with CA and apply it in thin layers to the scales. I realized I shouldn't try to apply both red and black dust in the same layer/same mix. They would combine into one mushy color and I wasn't after that. I wanted clear red and black areas, with a bit of yellow peaking out. This probably took as many as 12 layers, lightly (or aggressively) sanding each one after application. On 2, or 3 occasions, I'd remove the last layer completely, because I didn't like the blend. This is how I would coat:
1. CA and ebony
2. Clear CA
3. Clear CA
4. CA and cocobolo
5. Clear CA
6. CA and ebony
7. Clear CA
8. Clear CA
9. CA and cocobolo
10. Clear CA
11. CA and ebony
....
.... and so on, you get the picture. Clear CA coats are important to keep the dust mixes well separated, as I found.

Attachment 218374
Fig 3. - Completed

3. The finished product probably has one, or two clear coats of CA applied at the end. Rough spots and excess CA was sanded down with 320 grit, moving to 400, 600, 800, 1000, 2000. After this I did a bit of polishing with a clean microfiber cloth and this gave them a nice shine.

Cheers!
S.
11-12-2015, 02:02 AM
DeObfuscate

Interesting finish. Thanks for sharing the technique.
I have a Torrey that was damaged, lost 1/2" inch in length. It won't ever be beautiful, but distressed scales would suit this shorty well.
11-12-2015, 03:07 AM
Castel33

Some nice looking scales and interesting process
11-12-2015, 03:27 AM
Ernie1980

Interesting idea... I am always on the look out for interesting scale materials!
11-12-2015, 12:12 PM
outback

Quote:

Originally Posted by Srdjan

As Movember is long underway and I have not been shaving much, figured I'd post this bit of work I've done for fun a while ago. Several people found these scales interesting and have wondered what they are and how they were made. Some people have seen them temp-mounted on blades and asked: "Why aren't these permanent???".

I will give as much explanation of the process, as I can. Sadly I don't have many pictures anymore, but the ones below should do just fine.

Well anyway, for now they remain my test scales, I have no desire to peen any razor in them. Who knows, maybe when I run out of wood, horn, bone, G10...
I hope you find this at least a little inspiring and of course, feel free to share your own ideas and creations. Rock on! :rock:

Attachment 218376
Fig 1. - Just ordinary celluloid scales

In this step you will need..... A decent pair of celluloid scales duh!

Attachment 218375
Fig 2.a. - Left: The easy part (the beginning).
Fig 2.b. - Right: Mid-process checkpoint

2.a. Steps to get here apply to both sides, of course. This was done using an accu drill (hand held), a few bigger drill bits and a burr bit, a can of matte spray paint and some sand paper. Let's assume the drill bits were 10mm and 5mm, or approx 3/8" and 3/16". The burr bit was one of those 5-10mm ones and sandpaper used was probably 400-800 grit.

I took the drill and created shallow dents with drill bits at first. Then I went on to deform those dents with a burr bit. Also created random lines, flecks, bites on the sides, etc. I then proceeded to paint the surface with my matte spray. Glossy spray may work, but I figured at this stage I wanted the entire surface to have the same look - so matte. I was going to let the CA alone give it the final, finished look. After they had dried at this stage, I took the sandpaper and lightly sanded off the surface. This removed everything but the paint in the dents, of course. After I was happy with the finish, I moved on to the fun part.

2.b. To get here I needed: thin, or medium CA, ebony and cocobolo dust, two separate mixing containers, something thin to mix with, protective latex gloves and some kitchen towels (paper, like the toilet paper kind). The wood dust was created with 800 grit paper. I then proceeded to mix it with CA and apply it in thin layers to the scales. I realized I shouldn't try to apply both red and black dust in the same layer/same mix. They would combine into one mushy color and I wasn't after that. I wanted clear red and black areas, with a bit of yellow peaking out. This probably took as many as 12 layers, lightly (or aggressively) sanding each one after application. On 2, or 3 occasions, I'd remove the last layer completely, because I didn't like the blend. This is how I would coat:
1. CA and ebony
2. Clear CA
3. Clear CA
4. CA and cocobolo
5. Clear CA
6. CA and ebony
7. Clear CA
8. Clear CA
9. CA and cocobolo
10. Clear CA
11. CA and ebony
....
.... and so on, you get the picture. Clear CA coats are important to keep the dust mixes well separated, as I found.

Attachment 218374
Fig 3. - Completed

3. The finished product probably has one, or two clear coats of CA applied at the end. Rough spots and excess CA was sanded down with 320 grit, moving to 400, 600, 800, 1000, 2000. After this I did a bit of polishing with a clean microfiber cloth and this gave them a nice shine.

Cheers!
S.

I have to ask this because I've had this happen to just about all of my CA finnished scales.
Has your finnish cracked yet after pinning. Takes a week or so.
It doesn't seem to like the flexing of the scales, when opening and closing the blade.?
11-12-2015, 02:43 PM
Srdjan

Quote:

Originally Posted by outback

I have to ask this because I've had this happen to just about all of my CA finnished scales.
Has your finnish cracked yet after pinning. Takes a week or so.
It doesn't seem to like the flexing of the scales, when opening and closing the blade.?

Mike I hope you're doing well these days. I haven't had this problem yet.. but then again, I dont tighten the scales all that much - just enough for them hold the blade in a vertically open position, without it falling freely back into the scales.. if you know what I mean? I guess that might be one source of the problem. Another one may be coating.. how thick do you go and how many coats do you apply? I generally go as thin as possible with a medium CA and probably do as many as 8-10 coats. Another one that comes to mind .. how fresh is your CA? I think if it's not fresh, it may become weaker. I've read about shelf life once the stuff is open. I've gone past that period, but not too long.

I will inspect the one blade I still have at home, finished in CA probably over 6 months ago... perhaps snap a photo and attach here as well.
11-12-2015, 05:46 PM
miha

Llooks great! do the CA layers and different wood dust create a 3D layer like effect, maybe more CA layers should be inbetween in order to achieve this effect?
11-12-2015, 06:09 PM
outback

5 Attachment(s)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Srdjan

Mike I hope you're doing well these days. I haven't had this problem yet.. but then again, I dont tighten the scales all that much - just enough for them hold the blade in a vertically open position, without it falling freely back into the scales.. if you know what I mean? I guess that might be one source of the problem. Another one may be coating.. how thick do you go and how many coats do you apply? I generally go as thin as possible with a medium CA and probably do as many as 8-10 coats. Another one that comes to mind .. how fresh is your CA? I think if it's not fresh, it may become weaker. I've read about shelf life once the stuff is open. I've gone past that period, but not too long.

I will inspect the one blade I still have at home, finished in CA probably over 6 months ago... perhaps snap a photo and attach here as well.

Doing great now...
Dates are good.
Coat about the same.
Give ample time between coats(gassing).
And aren't too tight.
They crack all over.

Is it because i only do two thin coats inside the scales? ( just to seal).
Here's some pics.
Attachment 218462 Attachment 218463
The last one isn't as noticeable, and on only one side.
Attachment 218464
My shorty is the only one that this hasn't happened to.
Attachment 218466 Attachment 218467
11-12-2015, 07:33 PM
WW243

Call it a crackle finish Mike and say you did it on purpose. It looks kind of cool.
11-12-2015, 08:06 PM
Srdjan

Dang Outback! I thought this had something to do with cracking around the pins.. This never happened to me. Perhaps my scales don't bend as much during normal use, or perhaps it's just the CA. I use this stuff:
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...819972&alt=web

I agree it looks cool, kinda like the cracking on vintage guitars, done with nitro-cellulose lacquer. ;)
11-12-2015, 08:38 PM
Srdjan

1 Attachment(s)

Quote:

Originally Posted by miha

Llooks great! do the CA layers and different wood dust create a 3D layer like effect, maybe more CA layers should be inbetween in order to achieve this effect?

That's a great idea. I think 3 or 4 layers of clear CA to begin with, then moving on to the next colored layer, again followed by enough clear CA, then moving to a different color layer.... I will try this at some point for sure.

Edited to add a current photo of the scales.

Attachment 218482
11-12-2015, 09:11 PM
outback

1 Attachment(s)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Srdjan

Dang Outback! I thought this had something to do with cracking around the pins.. This never happened to me. Perhaps my scales don't bend as much during normal use, or perhaps it's just the CA. I use this stuff:
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...819972&alt=web

I agree it looks cool, kinda like the cracking on vintage guitars, done with nitro-cellulose lacquer. ;)

Yep... Same stuff.
Mine came as a kit.
Attachment 218485
11-12-2015, 09:24 PM
Srdjan

I'm thinking, if anything bends and flexes it would be this exact set of scales. I put up a pic I just took, right above your post. Not a single, tinniest crack and I keep changing blades in these scales regularly. I used only the glue and not the activator.. (just trying to figure out what might be different in our processes).
11-12-2015, 09:37 PM
outback

Possible wood types ?
The yellow & purple are hart wood.
The other and shorty are African Padauk.

And I used the activator on all of them.
The shorty has the greatest flex , per length of scale
11-12-2015, 10:53 PM
Srdjan

Cant see how wood would affect it. I've done a set in bocote, pretty thin and flexible. The activator though... I'm not sure, I've never used it. If you do another set, could you try without?
11-12-2015, 11:23 PM
outback

1 Attachment(s)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Srdjan

Cant see how wood would affect it. I've done a set in bocote, pretty thin and flexible. The activator though... I'm not sure, I've never used it. If you do another set, could you try without?

My thoughts exactly.
Only got one more to hone.
( put it together today with used scales. ) my last set. So im gonna have to make some , for some other blades I have.
+ a birdy told me there were a few on their way soon as well.[emoji6]
Attachment 218505
It's a 6/8th Tower Brand #77, full hollow.
11-13-2015, 04:13 PM
Srdjan

1 Attachment(s)

I started on a long overdue set of scales for a Griffon carbo magnetic. Decided a month ago it was gonna be antler. Here is a progress pic. Now, I was having a real hard time thinning the bone. I have a new idea, so will try that next... Basically, my belt sander does virtually nothing, if I lay the scale flat on it (which I need to do, obviously). The bone quickly gets hot, it becomes soft, the belt loads with hot, soft dust, clogs up, you get the picture... So I'm thinking I'll make a few cuts on the flat side to attempt and reduce contact and friction. That should do the trick, hopefully. This is my first attempt at the antler, so I'm not expecting flawless execution... Close to perfect will do, for now ;)

Attachment 218601