Thread: 1st restore, advice needed

Hello all, picked up a nice CF Schwartz from an antique store last week. It was in decent shape with a good bevel and I figured it would be a good start to practice restoration.

The blade and spine show very light oxidation. I tried removing it with 0000 steel wool and a variety of metal polishes, but after about 5-6 hours put in I see almost no difference. The tang had more rusting and pitting so I sanded 400, 600, 900 and it's coming along well, but I feel I will have to go back to the 400 for a while to remove all the pitting.

My question is, for what is shown, how low of a grit should I start with to remove the oxidation on the blade/spine? I worry about getting too aggressive and ending up in the butchered blade thread myself [emoji16]. On the tang I'm also concerned that if I get to aggressive I'll wipe out the stamping. Any way to avoid this? All criticism and advice is appreciated [emoji3]

And as purchased pictures:

I wouldn't go any lower than 400 on this blade. unless you really want to get all the pitting out.I usually end up with some pitting especially like the picture of the tang end. to me it's just not worth the effort to have it absolutely flawless. I say let it show it's age. are you using some sort of lubricant with your sandpaper(like WD-40?)

Originally Posted by tintin

I wouldn't go any lower than 400 on this blade. unless you really want to get all the pitting out.I usually end up with some pitting especially like the picture of the tang end. to me it's just not worth the effort to have it absolutely flawless. I say let it show it's age. are you using some sort of lubricant with your sandpaper(like WD-40?)

Yes I am using a lubricant, WD-40 or 3 in 1 oil, whatever is nearby at the time haha. I definitely do want to get all the pitting out, I am a perfectionist. At the same time, I think I would rather preserve the stamping as much as possible and just work around it if need be.

Your project is looking nice.

You say that you are a 'Perfectionist'.

I would urge you to avoid the 'TRAP' of trying to make Every Razor have a Near Mirror Finish (NMF). There is absolutely nothing wrong with leaving some history and battle scars.

There are 'Some' here who insist on putting on the NMF on razors that Never Had That Finish! Personally I find them repulsive. But that's just my 'preference'.

Here's a couple of examples of razors I'd Never do more with.

http://straightrazorpalace.com/custo...ered-horn.html

http://straightrazorpalace.com/custo...n-cleanup.html

Im becoming like Cuda. The more of these things that I restore, the more age I don't mind leaving. In the beginning I was out for the perfect restore. But the more liquid mirror blades that I see the less I like them.

Now to answer your question. You can start out with the higher grits (1000-1500) and slowly work your way down to the lowest grit that will remove what your after. Then work your way back up. This way you are only going as low as it takes to remove what you want to remove verses going all the down to a really coarse grit like 150 or 200. They leave big scratches that create more work to remove as you go back in grit.

You may find by doing this that you will only need to drop down to 600-800. Making your work easier. All of this is assuming that you are hand sanding. If you have a sanding/buffing wheel set up then the labor of hand sanding is a moot point but the grit progression is the same.

Pour out a bottle of wine? Never! It will find it's way into a sauce at the very least!

Wouldn't call myself an expert, but have done a few restores.
I'm also a perfectionist and contrary to others I still like the mirror finish( maybe this comes with age :P)
I use a dremel with muti speed selector and that flexible attachment.
Apply some cutting compound to the buffing brush, makes for a good mirror shine, but if you have pitting you will need to use either a grinding compound, or go to sandpaper.
The Key is to make sure the blade is completely flat on a piece of wood( or similar) if you catch the edge it can chip it.
Also be very mindful of the heat this will generate on the blade,pick it up and hold it, if its getting to hot to hold then dip in cold water, don't want coloured spots

An update on this project: thank you to all who have given advice. It's coming along well in the spare time I have. I think about 95% of what I wanted to get out is now finally out, but I can see why the more experienced members say to leave it as is! The awkward camera angles are a result of my trying to avoid glare from the shop lights. The question is now, what would you recommend for scales? Keep in mind I am very new at this and am looking for a material that is forgiving.

And for those who recommended a good scrub, I did another razor like so:



I think I'll clean this Lutco up just a little more, but I'm happy with the results so far and it was much less work than the other razor!