Proper use of flapwheels

[HedoDiver]

Hi all,

I'm restoring a few eBay specials (including a beautiful W&B that I can't wait to see the finished results on), and was wondering about how you use a flapwheel.

I have the 400, 240, and 120 grit flapwheels from widgetsupply, and they seem to work great; however, I'm wondering... do you use these flapwheels with a "buffing" motion... meaning that you use some pressure to push the flapwheel onto the blade, or... do you try to make contact with the blade using just the tips of the flapwheel?

Thanks!

Peter

[Bruno]

EDIT: I should have pointed out that I use 2" and 3" flapwheels in a standard electric drill.

If I have to remove pitting damage, I put quite a bit of pressure on the wheel in order to really remove metal. It goes faster that way, and the metal removal is more even along the blade.

For polishing up I use light pressure and move the blade along the tips of the rotating flapwheel in a spine to edge motion so that the scratch lines are perpendicular to the blade.

If you have to sand the part of the blade near the spine, you might have to hold the blade to the wheel with the edge of the blade pointing in the direction of the oncoming flaps. Be very very carfeful then because if you make contact you stand a good chance of ruining the blade, losing the tips of your finger or catapulting the blade into your torso somewhere.

If you think I am overdramatizing, there is 1 member here who lost 2 fingertips that way, and another who would sing soprano if it weren't for a thick leather apron. that was with buffer wheels if I remember correctly, but the same principle applies here.

Safety first.

[Elspago]

Agree with the safety warning. Do what works for you, Peter. I've found the following works for me and my Dremel:

- Orient the flapwheel so rotation is spine to edge
- Use finest grit possible
- Don't linger too long in any spot without frequent stoping/checking
- Use some pressure when I need to and keep checking and moving

Have fun and show/tell with us - can't wait to see your W&B too!

-Steve

[FiReSTaRT]

-I always start with 120, works quickest..
-Rotatation away from the edge
-No real pressure
-Keep it moving and if the grit doesn't achieve desired results, just do another pass
-To clean the jimps, use a wire brush wheel first

[Bruno]

A wirebrush might not be enough for the jimping.
My John Barber has pretty deep jimps.
I have tried wire brushes (dremel and hand brush) but the only thing that really worked was a small triangular file that is made by Bahco for sharpening saw teeth.

The jimping itself is also roughly triangular and spaced evenly, so I think something similar was used for making them in the first place.

[ernestrome]

In addition to ensuring the wheel rotate away from the edge, i like to press the blade firmly down on a flat surface, so if i do erroneously use it the wrong way, it will be hard to catch the edge.

[Bruno]

If I work with bigger wheels I clamp my drill in my black and decker workmate and handle the blade.
I always touch the razor where the wheel rotates away from me.
Even if it gets caught that way at least it flies away from me.