Experimental restoration

Hi everyone

This week I have been with a friend in his workshop. I give a try to his buffing machine with cloth wheels to restore some of my razors.

I did only two one did (the first one) not get very well. This is the first time I used this machine so my hands were shaking a little with the force of wheels. This is the one I finished with sandpapers but still I need to polish it more, so it's not completed.

The second one was better which i did today, for now I just cleaned to rust in the spots (it was unbelievable, the rust came out in the tiny spots, I didn't expected this much). Happily I did it. So the second still needs sand paper.

I'm sorry but I don't have any picture of the first one before I started but I can say it was worst than the second one.

I'd like to have some of your advices...

Attachment 245216
Attachment 245217
Attachment 245218
Attachment 245219
The white trace is my fingers mark
Attachment 245220

I'm sorry but for the first one I did not find pictures on my phone. I'll see it tomorrow. So the pictures here are for the second one...

There are some subtle lines on the razor that are easy to round and easy to loose, to start with, that blade is an extreme example and that is a lot of buffing and sanding.
There is a very soft transition on that blade where the heel transitions into the tang. The other line that is east to round is just above the notch on the bottom of the tang. It is the line that runs at an angle and is part of reducing the tang so it sits nicely in the scales. That one is super easy to loose.
You removed a lot of very deep pitting on that blade.
I find it to be a very good practice when learning new tool, especially my buffer, to alway use blades that are otherwise dead. If I learn form those, and the lesson winds up in the dust bin, I have not lost a blade only gained knowledge. Sometimes it is knowledge about what not to do, but I still take it as a gain.

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Originally Posted by RezDog

There are some subtle lines on the razor that are easy to round and easy to loose

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Yes !!!! I have seen far too many restored razors with all lines and angles rounded, it's such a shame!

well actually i give a try with a knife to see what can be done if i do something wrong. after that i was carefull to keep the lines at tang and the spine. i was thinking to do polishing today but i'm kind of lazy today so maybe tomorrow. but actually i'm pretty happy to save this blade. and it was unblievable to see how much rust came out from these pitchs.

Nice Job Your Coming Along Good!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Ty

Not all finished but just worked on today, I need to polish and final polish on it then hone.

Here latest pics; Attachment 245906

Well just worked on today

Attachment 247055

Bonus:

Attachment 247182

I assume your using greaseless compound on the polisher. Looks like you are getting good results too. One thing to be careful about is grinding into the bevel. It can be especially touchy near the heel on these older smilers. It looks like you lost a bit here but it's not too bad. You should be able to fix that on the stones. That IC Vincent looks very familiar:D. Looks like you've got a nice mirror finish on it. Attachment 247193

yes i also remarken the bevel. just shaking hands. i will be more carefull next time.

There is certainly a learning curve to using a buffer. I bought a handful of dead razor to experiment a little, since then I have been very cautious in the use of my buffer. I am trying to keep the damage from learning to a minimum and still do mostly hand sanding. I see you are making progress. You have also gotten a pretty deep shine.

Here finished today. Honed until 15k and strop. It's really soft. TAttachment 247515Attachment 247516Attachment 247517

Your photo link, is not working.

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Originally Posted by Euclid440

Your photo link, is not working.

Use the lcons on the Quick Reply, tool bar, third from the right, Insert Image.

If you hold your cursor over the Icons, it will tell you what they are.

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added new ones