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Hey all,
Finally got around to cleaning up and restoring this old beaut!
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Pick this up at an Antique store few weeks ago for a steal $20 bucks!
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Looks like it is a good piece to start with. Lots of steel and not a lot of wear.
So I started sanding it down and several hours later here is where I am with it. Not too happy with it just yet. You see a lot of pitting that I can probably minimize and the scratches are too visible for my liking.
So far I've hit it with 220, 320, 600, 800, 1500, 2000, red compound, 3 micron lapping paper, 1 micron paper, .3 micron and finally some mothers polish.
I may go back through the grits but doing it for longer. Any suggestion on getting the scratches out? I started with going longways (parallel to the spine) and then started going perpendicular (spine to edge). Should I just stick to one direction? Any suggestions are greatly appreciated!
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What are you using as a backing for the sandpaper? Are you using it wet? WD-40 makes a great wet, that helps to keep the scratches from going too deep. The pitting looks like it is deeper than the etching, so you will be stuck wit some of it. 220 and 320 are too coarse for this kind of work (personal opinion) so I would stick with the 600 until all of the scratches from the lower grits are completely gone. It does get a little hard to tell and in the beginning I went back and forth in grit trying to get the previous scratches removed. If you get bored with the sanding you can chip away at the scales.The backer is important because it keeps the sanding flat and helps preserve the lines of the razor. I use cork others use rubber, leather over wood, hair curlers, the list can go on.
1st, I am NOT a blade restorer, by any means. However, I have refinished several firearms over the years as a gunsmith.
Keep in mind, scratches are nothing more than 'peaks and valley's" in the metal. Working at opposing 45 degree angles to the scratch you want to remove, knocks the "peaks" off.
Thanks RezDog,Quote:
Originally Posted by RezDog
I will go back and spend my Sunday watching the Giants win their acidity game in a row (🤞🏽) and will be going back with some 600 and progressing up from there. Do you tend to stick to just one direction? I am logically conflicted because in my experience in woodworking (building furniture) and with Automotive Detailing, you stick to one direction to avoid cross hatching and swirls.
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That is a good point AcesandEights! Unfortunately once I got some of the dirt and first layer of tarnish off, I noticed a really deep set of curved scratches. I'll see if I can't find a picture to point them out.Quote:
Originally Posted by AcesandEights
Focus in the area below the "CHER" in Butcher.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...ef431508f0.jpg
In this one you can see the same scratch strokes above the CHER.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...9272b8de4d.jpg
Those were there and I tried to get rid of them but they are really deep.
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I am doing my first restoration at http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...ing-tools.html so take my recommendations with a grain of salt.
As RezDog said, WD40 + cork works great. In my last session of cleaning I went from higher to lower grits. If I were you, I would start with 1500, see what happens and go lower if needed.
Good luck!
I did think about trying that out! It makes sense. Why go too low and make new scratches?! Thanks for the insight cmsessa!Quote:
Originally Posted by cmsessa
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I do have a dremel, but I'm honestly more concerned with the level of control and in my opinion, using a Dremel (unless you're a pro) when it comes to detailed task such as this is like using a microwave to make Lasagna instead of using an oven...they may yield Lasagna at the end...but the oven baked one will surely taste better! [emoji51]
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I would recommend against using a dremel for surfacing a razor. It's just too easy to mess up and take a chunk out of the blade. Keep the dremel for cutting of broken toes and shaping scales.
Sometimes, you'll have to accept some issues with blades. If I was restoring the blade, I would leave it as is. Better to have more etching and a few scratches, than no etching at all. Besides, flaws give a blade character. Good luck!
I agree with Dinnermint.
You do not want to remove any information on the blade or tang. It is the provenance of the piece.
I do change direction when sanding. I end with spine to edge strokes. I am always very conscious of keeping the form and lines of the razor and not going over edges and lines or they round out and erase. Sanding a blade is more like rubbing a finish and changing direction is actually beneficial to getting them all out. Sanding in one direction will scatter the light all in the same direction and you will not be able to see the deeper scratches hiding between the lighter lines. 45 and 90 degree lines will keep the deeper scratches from hiding. Save the dremel activities for later, it is kind of an advanced skill set. I have one and use it very little.
I sand the same as Rez.
When using lower grits I do spine to bevel strokes. This somewhat eliminates the chance for a long deep scratch that can take a lot of work to remove.
Does it have any other stamping on the tang - believe the one I have has, "Keen Shaver" stamped on the tang?
Hey Phrank,Quote:
Originally Posted by Phrank
There are no other markings on it. Just the single Bow on the tang and what you see on the razor itself. I have the original box but I will have to take picture of it later when I get back home.
I tried to figure out how old this razor is, I honestly had no luck but I'd assume it's between 1850-1920?
I'm blown that the scales are demolishedbecause I would have loved to l reuse them. However I just picked up some really awesome wood yesterday and am planning to make some pretty cool looking scales for this razor along with two other blades I've restored.
The wood I picked up!
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I'll probably start a new thread when I start using that wood. But just to give an idea, below are pics of some cheap Pine that I picked up from Michaels (local craft store) last week and 2 hrs later I made these scales.
Now before anyone starts in...I know very well that Pine isn't ideal for scales. But it cost me $1.99 for the plank, I was bored, and wanted to practice making scales on cheap wood first. I also didn't use any pre-stain conditioner. Anyways here you go!
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And both of them with Dark Walnut stain:
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And finally with 6 coats of Clear Satin Poly (probably going to another 6 or so coats):
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You see a slight sheen that is starting to show. I don't like my finished wood working projects to be shiny. Unless the person I'm making it for wants it shiny, I feel it takes away from the wood grain and makes it look "fake"-ish. Now bone scales I am all about the shine!
Anyways I'll end my rant now. Lol
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