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I started working on my second razor.
Here's how I got it:
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Unpinned (and I didn't break the scales this time):
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After some heavy 400 grit sanding:
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It looks like the rust has damage the steel. Any recommendation on how to proceed?
Clean it up the best you can.
Go to 600grt. , then 1000, from there you can polish it out. You'll be left with some pits and black rust, but as long as you can get a clean edge, you'll be good to go.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...7de111cc34.jpg
I would set the bevel before going any further. That is quite a bit of rust at the edge. Once the bevel is set and you are certain you are going to get a shaver out of it then you can get the black out of the pits with steel wool and a lot of elbow grease, see if you can reduce the pits with more sanding or put it in a set of scales and be happy with it there.
haha I didn't know the elbow grease idiom and I thought there was a magical product :banghead:Quote:
Originally Posted by RezDog
Rez has a good point. There is no sense in spending a lot of time and effort on a blade only to find out the metal will not hold an edge.
I understand that but my issue is that I didn't get into honing to be able to answer that myself.Quote:
Originally Posted by rolodave
For now, I will do a second cleaning today, focusing on the blade, see where that takes me.
why do you guys think of trying something like Evapo-Rust?
Some people use, some love it, most don't find it saves any time. There is something that you can mix up using molasses that is suppose to be pretty good, but I don't use any of that. Just the old fashioned idiom and some basic supplies. LOL
Never used it, have used navel jelly with nominal results.
Still left with black rust in the deepest pits. Have also used muratic and hydrochloric acids, but ya need to understand how it works before putting it to a blade, cause it works pretty darn fast, and can easily etch the blade, or turn it black.
I use EvapoRust all the time, especially in applications like yours, where you may leave some pitting, by choice.
What it will do in the pits, is stop the rusting chemically, it will not remove the pitting but, stop the process and protect the steel. Depending on the level of rust it can work in a little as an hour or leave over night without any damage to the steel. Do not throw it away when finished, you can continue to reuse it. I keep a water bottle filled, it is a perfect container to hold a straight razor blade, just mark the bottle and keep the lid on tight.
Years ago, a good friend of mine who is an engineer, where English was not his first language, got his first job as a licensed Engineer, after graduating from the University, in a sugar refinery in Ecuador. The mill was run by an American, who had tasked him with a job of restoring a large piece of neglected equipment and told him, it was going to require, a lot of “Elbow Grease”.
Wanting to impress his first boss, he just nodded his head in agreement. He promptly phoned their supplier and ordered a 55-gallon drum, of Elbow Grease along with his other needed supplies.
Later after the task was completed, he told his boss the story and how the supplier laughed for a good minute on the phone. He said that relating that story, cemented a great working relationship with the boss, and was the start of a long and interesting career as an engineer. He is today, one of the world’s leading experts in water purification.
You will, have to decide how much pitting you can live with, or steel removal the razor can take. You will remove as much steel as the deepest pit, on both sides.
Yes, as advised, do make sure the blade will hold an edge, before you invest many hours in restoration, only to find you have a nice letter opener.
Are those horn scales, if so, they can be saved with some CA glue and a bit of sanding.
Oh, I started the process before reading your message.
Here's what it looks like:
Attachment 250731
Yep, I read that you can keep on using it until it turns dark.Quote:
Originally Posted by Euclid440
Hehe, I didn't call anyone but I did google it. What's weird is that amazon returns a product!Quote:
Originally Posted by Euclid440
2 Pack Elbow Grease~2 each 15 oz:
https://www.amazon.com/Grease-2-Oil-...s=Elbow+Grease
Thanks! I will keep on updating this thread. My main concern is learning and I am happy with the progress :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Euclid440
Cut a 3x8 piece of 1000 Grit sandpaper or there about
Holding the razor like a knife with the spine OFF the sandpaper set a bevel, look at the bevel with a bright light and magnification... be careful not to flatten out the smile more then it already is (see below)
If you see clean non-pitted steel then continue with the restoration, if not start at square one again
Of course you have already invested time and money in this razor so all that I just typed will be ignored :p
You also need to recognize that the edge and the Spine "Look" to be out of geometry with each other so honing needs to be targeted on putting it back inline when you hone this
Save Time and Money at the top of this forum
http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...wers-here.html
and in there is exactly what Rezdog/Shaun and I are mentioning about check the steel first
http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...er-2013-a.html
but yes learning and having fun are paramount, being able to actually use it to shave after is pretty fun too :D
I think that is the big hook!Quote:
Originally Posted by gssixgun
After two hours soaked in EvapoRust:
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Will update in two hours.
4 hours update:
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When using EvapoRust, be sure the entire blade is in the solution. If part of the blade is exposed to air you stand a good chance of etching a mark at the air/solution line.
This means you cannot place part of the razor in Evaporust to address a troublesome spot.
Around 18 hours later:
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I have read before starting the process that the metal could get dark. Apparently, 1000 grit should have been able to remove it but since I wanted to work a bit more on the rust close to the blade I went to 400 grit directly.
I don't know why the tang didn't get dark, the entire blade was inside the solution.
"The darkening" disappeared after the first 400 grit pass. This is how it looks after 40 mins of sanding:
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A closer look with natural light:
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Today I finally saw what some people mention in this thread about rust close to the blade. The magical elbow grease can't save everything? I will put the blade back in the EvapoRust to see what happens...
IMHO, I would move on to 600, 1000 w/d paper, and polish.
Looking closely at the second to last pic, of the backside of the blade. Those Pitts look pretty deep at the edge near mid blade. There's four in a row, moving from the toe towards mid blade, and a fifth very near the edge, just beyond them.
You may have a small window to obtain a clean bevel between those pits, if not, your gonna be removing some serious steel to get there.
This one had a extremely small window of opportunity, had to keep checking with a loupe to make it.
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...ea971df0f6.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...6d1ab18707.jpg
Attachment 250782Quote:
Originally Posted by outback
Isn't that black mark a problem?
Update:
I visited Voidmonster and he helped me out setting the bevel. I didn't do a good job taking a picture of the bevel but if you don't believe me, believe Voidmonster :D
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I do a final cleaning today and sand the original scales. Will update soon.
Nope.. Its above the cutting edge.Quote:
Originally Posted by cmsessa
And so is the other one just above it.
But much more honing, and her life is done.
The only reason I did this blade, was because there was no hone wear. It just sat, and was slowly rotting away. But I could see the small window for an edge, once I cleaned it up.
That and I got for $5
Not much to update from yesterday. I did some additional 400 grit on the blade and on the scales until I run out of sandpaper.
Today I am going to buy some more 400 grit and perhaps trying with something lower than 400 on the blade to see what happens.
Here's what it looks like so far:
Attachment 250924
It looks like it will turn out very nicely!!
Update:
Today I went to the store to get more sandpaper.
Got 400 grit but also got 180. Sorry outback, but I went the other way.
After doing some heavy 180grit sanding this is the result:
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Attachment 250954
I think I can still make it a bit better but there is not much more to do.
Nice job! That one rust spot near the edge is a bit concerning, but I might suggest honing that out if there is clean steel above it. A fun project, and good learning experience. Thanks for sharing!
Your blade and decision.Quote:
Originally Posted by cmsessa
But we both march to the same drum.
For I'm a lot like you...don't listen for $h1t. Har..!!! [emoji38]
