How would you deal with this chip as it will require a decent amount of steel to be removed. My concern is the stabilizer. What is the best way to reduce it so that the whole edge can be honed without making it look like crap?Attachment 257450
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How would you deal with this chip as it will require a decent amount of steel to be removed. My concern is the stabilizer. What is the best way to reduce it so that the whole edge can be honed without making it look like crap?Attachment 257450
You have to get to the bottom of the chip Period
You can use a black maker on the edge to help to figure the best contour line to achieve that by blacking out the metal that needs to come off
I use a DMT 325 to do most of that work, and I show how in a couple of my honing vids but basically you gently recontour the heel and shoulder using a corner of the DMT
You can also use a Diamond File if you have them, or even a Dremel if you feel brave :p
It takes some patients and some time but its not difficult once you get going.
I believe something real similar was explained Yesterday in Thread I Dropped My Razor, Somebody put arrows and circles on the razor to show how to fix it, Ty
What Addison said.
And watch a couple of Glens vids. Its not too hard just go slow. Good luck.
I just removed 2 chips from a blade I should have taken pics and shared. If you like I can take pics explaining what I did and instructions. Just holler ill be glad to help.
I would appreciate any pics that you have. Definitely helps when I have pics to look at.
Ok ill get that done this evening no problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by Deathblade
ps; Here is a thread to read that might help you also
http://straightrazorpalace.com/advan...l-setting.html
Looks like the spine has a smile, and probably, so does the edge.
If so, you want to keep that smile or the blade will look funky. Here is a post on doing a more aggressive re-profile, but the technique is the same. (Make me smile).
As said, just re profile the heel so the corner ends in front of the stabilizer and is no longer touching the stone when honing. The metal is thin and is removed quickly so go slow.
Taking measurements and drawing a profile with a sharpie is good insurance that you will like the results.
When removing steel from the edge get close to your line and do the final profiling with the 1k, so you remove as little steel as possible.
Use a coin or large washer to draw the profile of the heel so the corner of the edge is forward of the stabilizer, then grind to the line with a diamond plate or low grit stone. You can use a Dremel, but I prefer a plate, file or stone. On this operation, it is very easy for the Dremel to get away from you.
Here is a post, that shows what you are trying to achieve and a razor that need a re-profiling. Post 17, (Dropped open SR, how bad is it?)
This is solid info, Euclid is the one that instructed me on how to handle chips and its on the money.
Ok so this is my process which I believe IIRC follows Euclid. Here is the blade before, typically I would have all my cleaning done before but this is just for guidance so here we go.
First I measure the blade spine to edge I did not take pics of this. Then I lay the blade flat on a piece of paper and trace the spine. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...81377663d8.jpg
Next I draw a line from the deepest part of the chip across the blade. This is a guide for where to stop and kinda helps keep things uniform. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e948d039a4.jpg
Next I take the blade on my diamond plate at roughly a 45 degree angle and with little pressure I start x strokes. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...483ab4d459.jpg on a NON smiling blade this may not be necessary. Keep going with x stroke and you will see fairly quick depending on how deep a chip that it starts to go away fairly quick.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...3072728edc.jpg this is a bit less than halfway. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...f07fd73b3d.jpg here she is about gone.
Now once the chip is almost invisible I will go to my 1k stone. Same stroke until chip is removed.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...802c505dd7.jpg in this pic you can see we have a slight frown despite my best efforts to be uniform. No worries measure the blade heel, center and toe and blend the blade to uniform width. Which you should then have this https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...1ecf432fd0.jpg
Now I'm no pro just a hobbyist, you can do all this with stones. I did this process on a w&b FBU and I did the rough stuff on a 220 stone then went to 1k. You may also need to try different angles or strokes for best results. Also it never hurts to measure the blade throughout this process to see where you are at.
After the blade is uniform shape your heel. You can place a coin or washer anything round really at the heel trace it and shape it.
As with anything take your time and you will be just fine. I hope this is clear and helpful. If there is anything else you would like pics of please feel free to ask. Best of luck.
