Polishing full hollow blades

[Deathblade]

What is the the techniques that you guys use to remove patina and mild rust on full hollows? I've seen some vids where a grinder with buffing wheel was used but the blade was a wedge. I remember someone saying to use a mouse pad or something similar under the blade to prevent cracking but can't seem to find anymore info.

[RezDog]

That question has many many answers. Techniques vary a lot. You certainly can use a buffer. I mainly choose not to use a buffer. You will be amazed as to what you can accomplish using steel wool, with WD-40 and steel wool with mothers polish, of course that does require elbow grease. If you choose to use a buffer it is really easy to make a full hollow too hollow with aggressive buffing and it is also quite easy to over heat a blade. When the removal of steel is required I tend more toward hand sanding. You can make a sanding block with a couple magnets and some wood, they hold the b,are while you work on it. Start with the least aggressive method and decide how to proceed.

[Aerdvaark]

After my rounds of hand sanding are done I use 3M Marine metal restorer & polish by hand with a rag. I do not use a buffer but would if I had one.

[outback]

I prefer a rag under the blade, just so it won't get scratched from something in the table.
Typically start with metal polish on a rag and rubbed by hand. For any active rust, cut it off with a single edge Razor blade first. For stubborn patina you can use 000 or 0000 steel wool and WD-40.

And sometimes patina can be a beautiful thing, and should be left alone.

[silverloaf]

I always like to start with the least aggressive approach- metal polish. If more than that is needed then One of the simplest methods I've used over the years is wet/dry sandpaper wrapped around a dowel (I used cutoff sections of a broken hammer handle to give a range of radiuses vs just a round dowel) lubricated with a light spritz of windex. Depending on the circumstances and surface condition I also have used a smaller diameter sisal wheel with emery compound. I hate greaseless compounds, they "muddy" the details and crisp lines on razors too easily whereas the sisal wheel and grease based emery compound don't affect a blade this way as readily, can clean up a blade easily without losing details in most cases I've employed this. Caution needs to be exercised with any method obviously, choose one that compliments a blade, not one that takes away details and historical significance wherever possible. Removing metal to any extent from hollow ground blades can be risky, you can easily take it too far and end up with a foil edge, a snapped blade, or one with far too much flex to make it reliably useable.

[Tim Zowada]

A small buffing wheel on a Dremel, or Foredom, tool works pretty good. Start with a harder wheel to remove all the heavy stuff. Finish with a softer wheel. Be careful not to get the edge too hot. Be sure the wheel rotation is away from the edge!

Zam is a good all around polishing compound. If Zam won't do it, it's time to resort to sandpaper.

[ejmolitor37]

Mothers and the pad of your finger will remove a lot of tarnish and not damage the blade. Be mindful of sharp edge though.

[Euclid440]

I use a 6mm, 9X11 foam craft sheet, (a buck or two at a Craft Store) as a pad to work on, if the work is going to be dirty, (Greasy or Rusty) a sheet of paper towel will contain the mess. Coffee stir stick will clean between the scales. The foam is soft enough to bury the edge into the foam and prevent cuts, (you can sand and polish, right up to the edge safely) and protect the blade.

000 steel wool and WD40, as said will get all the active rust off, and clean the blade and scales. A single edge razor blade, also works well for bulk rust remove.

Once cleaned, polish with a good metal polish, the 3M polish is my new go to, works as good, or better than MAAS, but a lot less expensive.

If the steel wool and polish does not get the finish you want, 1k or 600 grit Wet and Dry will make it pop.

A 3X3 inch piece of 6mm, foam wrapped around a wine cork, with a 3X3 inch piece of Wet and Dry wrapped around the foam and cork, will brighten the finish. 600 grit scratches are easily removed by 1k paper and 1k scratches, will polish brightly with a good metal polish.

As said work from the least aggressive to more aggressive.