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Thread: Pin tightening

  1. #1
    Junior Member The Angry Piper's Avatar
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    Default Pin tightening

    I found a nice razor at a local antique shop. The blade is in pretty good shape, but the pins are way too loose for my liking. I'm still pretty much a noob when it comes to shaving and I've never even attempted to restore anything (beyond simple polishing) yet, so allow me to ask what is no doubt a silly and obvious question to most of you:

    Short of cutting the pins and re-pinning a razor, is there any way to tighten up the pins so the razor doesn't open and close too easily? I'd feel way more comfortable with a razor less prone to unintentional slippage.

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    Senior Member ForestryProf's Avatar
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    place the razor (closed) on a hard surface (a small anvil). The only part that should be in contact is the pin (otherwise you will mar the scales). LIGHTLY tap-tap-tap the other end of the pin. Check to see if the pin has tightened. Repeat. Flip the razor. Repeat. It may take a dozen taps, it may take a couple of hundred. The force exerted should be no more than you would be comfortable applying to your thumb. Some recommend doing this 'peening' with a spoon; I think this is going to the extreme. I use a 6 oz. ball peen hammer. Remember that you can not untighten a pin, so check regularly and don't overdo it. Too much and you will crack the scales or bend the pin.

    Hope this helps,
    Ed

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    Senior Citizen bth88's Avatar
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    Hey angry piper, who do you pipe for? I used to be a piper in The Chicago Highlanders way back when I was a wee lad...


    -Brian

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    Pogonotomy rules majurey's Avatar
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    Ed

    Great tip! Two of my straights were a little too loose for my liking but had just assumed I'd have to put up with it. They're just as I like now. Thanks!

    (I find loose scales makes stropping and honing more difficult.)
    M.

  5. #5
    Junior Member The Angry Piper's Avatar
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    Thanks Ed. I'll give it a try.

    Note to self: Buy anvil.

    Brian: Not piping with anyone right now (hence the anger), but considering joining the Rhode Island Highlanders.

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    Senior Member ForestryProf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Angry Piper View Post
    Thanks Ed. I'll give it a try.

    Note to self: Buy anvil.

    Brian: Not piping with anyone right now (hence the anger), but considering joining the Rhode Island Highlanders.
    LOL...I should have mentioned that any piece of metal will do as a pounding surface. I actually use a baby anvil from Grizzly Industrial. Weighs in at about 2 pounds and cost all of $10. Works great for all types of razor restoration work.

    Cheers,
    Ed

  7. #7
    Vintage Shaver Spokeshave's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ForestryProf View Post
    LOL...I should have mentioned that any piece of metal will do as a pounding surface. I actually use a baby anvil from Grizzly Industrial. Weighs in at about 2 pounds and cost all of $10. Works great for all types of razor restoration work.

    Cheers,
    Ed
    I use the side of a sledge hammer laid on my workbench. It works well because its rounded side forms a soft peak that I can better place just the pin onto. I would think the side of a smaller hammer would work well too. (BTW, don't mix up the hammers and use the sledge for the 'tapping' )

    - Dale

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    Senior Member, Moderator floridaboy's Avatar
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    I use a jewelers anvil and jewelers hammer that I got from ebay. Total cost was 20 bucks.

    Phil

  9. #9
    Senior Member ForestryProf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spokeshave View Post
    I use the side of a sledge hammer laid on my workbench. It works well because its rounded side forms a soft peak that I can better place just the pin onto. I would think the side of a smaller hammer would work well too. (BTW, don't mix up the hammers and use the sledge for the 'tapping' )

    - Dale
    But Dale,
    Just think of all the time you'd save...a single tap and you're finished

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