How long to peen on new scales?

Good info Scott. I hadnt run across this yet but ive not pinned as many as you ether.

Sometimes you are just as far ahead to remove the pin giving you trouble and starting over with a new one.

Bob

I peen one end and get the scales mocked up with whatever washers or collars I’m going to use. I then put on an extra #0 washer and clip the rod at that level with flush cutters. I then file or sand the pin to make it perfectly flat(import) and I’m ready to start peening. I used to eyeball it, but this is way more consistent.

One extra washer? Nice one. Hadnt thought of that. Good tip!

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Originally Posted by BeJay

I peen one end and get the scales mocked up with whatever washers or collars I’m going to use. I then put on an extra #0 washer and clip the rod at that level with flush cutters. I then file or sand the pin to make it perfectly flat(import) and I’m ready to start peening. I used to eyeball it, but this is way more consistent.

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Okay, I've got to try this. I am having to re-pin one that I cut the pin too short, so couldn't get a good domed rivet on one side, and it kept going loose. Thanks for the tip!

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Originally Posted by Gasman

I like that idea Rez. What is that piece? about 1/32 thick?
Thats how I judge. I eyeball 1/32 of pin stilling out thru washer. And a small file will work great to knock it down some and continue to peen. Just be careful of the scales. I've even been told that a soda can cut up to get a thin piece of metal with a small hole in it to protect the scales while filing the pin head.

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I find this to work great, Jerry.
Attachment 281598
Just make sure its dull. U know why.:rock:

Nice idea Mike. Now where to find a used one. Hmmmm.

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Originally Posted by Gasman

I like that idea Rez. What is that piece? about 1/32 thick?
Thats how I judge. I eyeball 1/32 of pin stilling out thru washer. And a small file will work great to knock it down some and continue to peen. Just be careful of the scales. I've even been told that a soda can cut up to get a thin piece of metal with a small hole in it to protect the scales while filing the pin head.

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Just for the record, I found my calipers and my other gauge. One I use for collarless pinning and it is 0.050” and the one for collars, as pictured 0.034”
The 0.034 is kind of thin for collarless pinning.

This has been pretty well covered, though I'll add a couple of things.

It seems all are agreed that the original poster's has the pin to long. I size the pin with a pair of nippers like the ones shown below. Once the razor is put together, I press down on the scales, nip as close as I can, and keep my hand on the scales until I give a couple of taps to spread the pin.

As I starting pinning, I check to see whether the blade is centered in the scales when closed. If not, I hammer more strokes on the side opposite of the direction that I want the blade to go, though it usually isn't an issue unless I'm working with really thin horn.

I don't raise the hammer more than an inch for each stroke due to the softness of the brass or silver/nickle rod.

Also, before doing any permanent pinning, I use micro fasteners on each end of the scales to make sure that everything lines up and looks good.

https://static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/..._AS01?$mdmain$

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Originally Posted by relk19

...I am using the brass kit ordered from Maggard's...

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IMHO, although I never had to take the step yet, brass would be my choice of metal to utilize as well. Being an alloy of Copper, and Zinc, it is soft enough to being shaped easily, without having to use any heat. However, still hard enough though. Yeah, got reminded of History classes, about the different ages, at school too. :D