Does anyone know about engraving scales and how to do so? I'm assuming it would involve either glueing or embedding a little metal plate, which would be engraved.
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Does anyone know about engraving scales and how to do so? I'm assuming it would involve either glueing or embedding a little metal plate, which would be engraved.
Do you want to engrave (i.e., initials), or inlay with another material?
There are a few good scrimshanders and other artisans here. A trip through "what are you working on" or "Customs and Restorations" would give you an idea of who to contact.
~Richard
True engraving is usually done with an engraving gun but it can also be done by hand. They sell such instruments usually tipped with sapphire or diamond depending on the hardness of the material. Of course they have laser engravers which commercial engravers use these days. Otherwise there is an encrusting process like the foil materials you see on many celluloid scales like DD does on their higher end models. I imagine that's done with the right amount of heat or pressure.
There are several other processes depending on exactly what you want done.
For inlay you have to do some carving and the material can be glued in place or you can do channel work and the supporting material holds it in place. That takes some specialized skills.
Haven't done any inlays, but I have done a couple onlays.
Attachment 282187
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I have a couple that look like they are engraved with a nail or similar object.... But I think that you want a plate of some kind of metal.
If so I would find the shape and metal that I want and engrave it first and then inset.
If you didn't like the way that the engraving turned out then you could make another without removing the plate.
If they are a vintage scale with an already installed plate I would make sure that I gave it to someone that I trusted to do the engraving.
I was trying to think about the right term... Are you talking about an escutcheon plate?
Gents, I think I have the correct terminology.
I want to do this myself, thus I'm looking to learn how to do it and which tools are needed.
I want to inlay a metal shield that can be engraved. The key will be using some router type tool that can allow very fine edges so the shield looks good once installed.
If you already have or have access to a router or want to do 1,000 scales that would be the way to go.Otherwise I would do it by hand.
What material are the scales that you are going to inlay made of?
This might be what you are looking to do.
http://straightrazorpalace.com/custo...sears-son.html
V/R
Tim
I have and use a Dremel like tool and they have their place for sure. The main issue I have is that if you make a mistake/OOOOPS the piece is ruined.
Working by hand you will still make mistakes but they probably won't be as large and then you can repair or cover them...:shrug:
They old school escutcheon plates have posts soldered to the back of them and they are inlaid into the scale, the post go through holes and are then peened over on the inside. I think it would likely be easiest to get it all fitted, have the plated engraved and then installed. We also have a ton of really great glues now that could make the post system unnecessary. Hand engraving letters on a silver or brass plate is really not as easy as it looks, unless you are planning this as an ongoing technique that you want to learn and continue to produce, likely getting the engraving will be easiest. What tools to use for making the recess for the plate with depend on the material. Hard materials like shell, bone and ivory need special chisels. Horn can can be worked with wood working chisels.
I’ve done a few from inlaying brass “plates” to scrimshawed ivory, MOP, Abalone etc.
Did it all with what is essentially a high tech Dremel. ( micro motor) I think they came out well.
Only guessing but this sounds like what you want to do.
I’ve done inlays into horn, acrylic , ivory , wood.
If this hasn't been said yet, then let me say...check out the custom builds and restoration thread, and the what are you working on, thread in the workshop.
Some seriously talented folks here, some of the work you speak of is documented in those threads....somewhere.!
It'll blow your mind, at the things folks have done with razors and scales. True artists..!!!
@mycarver
You have to remember that you are a professional carver and your skill with professional tools is way beyond what most of us possess.
This is great info. The posting of the Henry Sears and Son razor is exactly what I want to do. I'll get someone to do the actual engraving, but want to inlay the plate into the scale myself.
It sounds like the best way to get started is to use the dremel to do a starter hole, followed by a routing bit to remove more material, followed by doing the fine work around the edges with wood chisels. My Dremel drill press has the ability stop how far down it goes, thus enabling a consistent level of depth for the engraved plate
Of course, I would practice a few times on extra scale material before putting a nice scale at risk.
More questions:
1. Does the plan I just laid out sound like a good one?
2. Mycarver, can you share the make and model of the micro motor you use?
3. Does anyone know where to get the shields? USA Knife has a few, though I would like some other options. It would be great if I can find a shield or escutcheon plate made of silver.
4. Seems to me the wood chisels should work on wood, horn and micarta. They may or may not work on acrylic and G10.
5. What would be a good glue for this?
Many thanks to all that have taken time to post!
I would imagine an engraver would have suitable plates.
Dixie Gun Works has a wide variety of inlay plates that might be suitable for your needs. I know they have brass and german silver, they may even have sterling. If silver is desired, an old dime, pre 1964, could be worked into a suitable plate,
Granted I am a full time carver but this doesn’t require much beyond getting a dremel tool with some burrs , making an outline on the scale of your plate and grinding away a recess up to that line. The overall depth doesn’t have to be precise. Only the outline . I do have a wide variety of chisels but they never came into play. But I did use an X-acto knife to get into the points as they were quite small.
An oval design is much simpler.
As to the plates I make all mine. Either silver or brass (and abalone, ivory etc too) I get thin stock, lay out a design, tin snip it close and clean it up with a disc in the dremel and or files. Whatever you have handy. Let’s face it 100 yrs ago they didn’t have dremel tools or micro motors and they got them to fit.
The handiest things are the tiny burrs. I’ve actually got some from my dentist that I’ve used as long as it was 1/16th shaft.
Silver plate ( online) and brass stock from hobby shops.
My favorite is using old cracked ivory scales to make inlays as it’s thin and very easy to work and etch.
Invest in a jewelers saw and some blades and then you can cut your own inlays. Stew-Mac has a lot of supplies for inlaying.
I went the high tech route. A rough sketch granted but it’s only a “see what it takes” kinda thing . All in less than a minute. Now a little file or sandpaper work and it would be clean enough to trace an outline onto a scale.
Took longer from my last post to photos and posting this than it did to make it.
Again, high tech tools ! I used that file and some sandpaper then polish to clean it up a bit.
I would guess many here could do this. A file, tin snip. If all you have is a dremel use that with cut off wheels.
It’s a decent size that could be engraved.
And being so thin it wouldn’t take much to relieve a spot to drop it into.
Originally mentioned in a book by "The last Little Messr,"... A Parser.
old-tech-drills-any-shaped-hole/
~Richard
petermcbride.com/parser/
I have made and used clicker dies for years.
Moving right along. Using a diamond burr to cut up to the line and just hog away the middle you can see how I can press it into place. This set of diamond cutters ran me $20 ? Crisp up the edge with an X-acto as trying to push it too far with power may lead to a quick oops. And the blade leaves a smoother, accurate edge.
With that and a Dremel you can inlay your way to fame and fortune.
Here I only did the upper half as this is a junk scale and only needed a visual to follow.
:rock:................
Thanks 32t!
As your line indicates,,,, it’s fear of the unknown that stops us. Hopefully seeing this little demo removes some of the fear and encourages someone to give it a whirl! Not as scary when you see a path to follow and someone says “ hey,, I’ll give that a try”
My hat goes off to you mycarver. You do make it look easy. I am rotary tool challenged and like a chisel in hand. You are correct and that we should not be afraid to push our boundaries on a regular basis. Its good for the mind and soul. And you can make cool stuff too.
Thanks my friend!
I too love a chisel in my hand. But here to just hog out the bulk area it goes quick and it doesn’t have to be pretty. Then switch to a chisel if you prefer and shear right to that line. Clean, safe and accurate. Truthfully though In my experience , horn doesn’t carve very well. But shearing to a line come a crisp edge works fine.
Many ways to achieve the same outcome. Like I sad. What did they use 100 yrs ago?
Another consideration is to get some scraps and practice, practice! If it won't work there, it won't work on your nice scales.
It is amazing how we have simple things around which will help. Just have to try!
Awesome input. This is really good! Many, many thanks to all.
Yup! Good to have Mark down in the workshop as well!
Oh wow. So many creative people on this site. Hopefully I can add my 2 cents .
Thank you.
You have not posted a lot but I have read them all Mark. You are a talented person.
You’re too kind! Thank you.
Do it!
And remember we learn more from what hits the garbage can than what doesn’t.
Mistakes are part of learning.