Thread: Beginning Scale Maker Questions

My good friend Rez brought up the subject of the relationship of the WEDGE to the SCALES.

While I haven't asked permission to post this here, here is what a seasoned veteran of many, many custom scales has to say about how to make the wedge.

Glen, please forgive me for not asking for your blessings.

QUOTE:

Making Wedges

There are no razor tangs at the pivot larger then 1/4"
Starting with 1/8" thick material means you always have enough
The outside end of most vintage razors have a thickness of less than .065" more in the arena of .055" - .045" that is pretty darn thin
The thickness of the inside edge of the wedge would therefore determine the "Angle"
So set the angle form .045" at one end to .125 at the other on a 1" x 1" wedge this gives you the work angle, now you simple adjust the fit from there by thinning the .125" end...
Drill the hole and fit to the razor...

If you ALWAYS start with a 1x1 with these dimensions, it gets really easy for you to set the wedge for the different sized razors

Keep in mind there are basically 4 sizes of tangs

#1. 11/16 and below
#2. 13/16 and above
#3. 6/8 the oddball
#4 The old Stubtail / Frameback flats

Theses are the basics, of course there will be some that mess with your brain, if you mess with enough razors, which I am sure you will have in your hand "Murphy's Law"

The Mock Up bolts are an invaluable asset, as are the Mock tangs which you need 3 sizes 1/8, 3/16, and 1/4, to give the correct build angles

ps: It is not that I am really smart, it is that I have done a crap load of restores over the last 10 years, and already made all these mistakes for you

pps: Yes you really can do all the work on one side of the wedge, when you make the cut or sand it to fit, it will square up

I do hope this is of some help and again, Glen, please forgive me.