Thread: Observations and request for pointers on hand sanding

It’s a lengthy topic with many many opinions and many many differing but all correct answers. I evaluated each razor on its own and decide how far to go. I am not opposed to steel wool and polish and leaving the pits. For a hard luck case like you started with it is a ton of sanding. I cannot say enough how important my dorklord visor is. I do alternate directions with each grit. I try to end verticals. WD-40 is super helpful in the grit of 400 and up. What to do with each blade is a strong question. Often I clean it first with steel wool and WD-40 and then make a plan from what is revealed. What are you working on is a great thread for getting advice on what you are working on as you are progressing. It looks intimidating because of its size but there is a ton of banter in it. Just jump in at the end and skim back as you have time and curiousity.

Respekt, sehr schönes Ergebnis!

I wish I had the patience sometimes.

Ahhhh grasshopper you ask a difficult question. This is like asking what the meaning of life is. As Rezdog said I go about it differently for each one on a case by case basis. Normally I use either steel wool and WD-40 or 2k wet/dry to knock down the big stuff at the beginning before I decide how to proceed. The synthetic cork works well. Stick with that. I also use a brass tube. It depends on if I am trying to save an.etching or engraving.
On the question of when to go to the next grade I use as a rule of thumb: just before I think I am almost there. As you go through the grades the pits and stains will diminish. I usually don't go as far back as what the article mentions. I usually start at 320. If it is really bad I'll go back to 220 but seldom further than that. I find the grits lower than that leave.too many deep scratches that are very hard to get out as you have discovered. I will go down the grits fairly quickly then go back many times if necessary. I also alternate directions. It makes the scratches.seem not to appear as much.
It looks pretty good but you have discovered the problem. You will find yourself saying "I'm sanding and I can't stop!" You sort.of have to figure it out as you go.how far is enough... hopefully.before.turning it into foil. We've all done it.
Good luck with it and keep us posted.

I'm usually pretty lazy and just do like 800, 1200, then 2000 if that. Big question that should always be asked though are these.

How long will it take to get to the condition I want?
Am I enjoying this or is it a chore (If it is a chore, how much value does it add to the razor. Say it takes me 5 hours to take a 100$ razor and it turns into a 130$ razor, I would just rather pick up 5 hours of OT at work and buy a 150$+ razor instead. Time is money, but I don't mind putting time in on a razor I know in will love.

Usually the blades I'm interested will be good to go after 1200 then 2000 grit sandpaper (sometimes 800) and finished up with mothers polish. It is good to practice on unimportant razors though before you try and restore a collectors blade and ruin it.

Originally Posted by PaulFLUS

... The synthetic cork works well. Stick with that. I also use a brass tube. It depends on if I am trying to save an.etching or engraving.
...

Very useful information, many thanks. Do I assume correctly that the brass tube is more useful when you want to save an etching?

Originally Posted by Montgomery

Very useful information, many thanks. Do I assume correctly that the brass tube is more useful when you want to save an etching?

Yes. Because there is no flex like the cork has it gives a hard backer for the sand paper. It's like laying a piece on a flat surface like a counter top to sand the tang or tail on.

Originally Posted by RezDog

... I cannot say enough how important my dorklord visor is. I do alternate directions with each grit. I try to end verticals. WD-40 is super helpful in the grit of 400 and up. What to do with each blade is a strong question. Often I clean it first with steel wool and WD-40 and then make a plan from what is revealed. What are you working on is a great thread for getting advice on what you are working on as you are progressing. It looks intimidating because of its size but there is a ton of banter in it. Just jump in at the end and skim back as you have time and curiousity.

Many thanks for the comments. I do browse the 'what are you working on' thread from time to time. And I will post specific queries there, thank you for the suggestion. I note your comments, especially concerning WD40, and also how to assess the blade. What is a 'dorklord visor'?

I typically won't sand a full hollow. Instead I cut off the active rust with a single edge razor blade, then some 0000 steel wool and oil/ WD-40, then 3M metal restorer/ polish.

After cleaning up 50 or more razors, you'll be better at evaluating if a blade warrants sanding at all. Most aren't.!

1/4 hollow and wedges are the only blades that can withstand heavy sanding. I also don't go any lower in grit, than 400, only on great occasions do I drop to 320.

Making a magnetic blade holding jig is a must, for hand sanding. Let's you use both hands while sanding, and lessens the fatigue .

Originally Posted by outback

I typically won't sand a full hollow. Instead I cut off the active rust with a single edge razor blade, then some 0000 steel wool and oil/ WD-40, then 3M metal restorer/ polish.

After cleaning up 50 or more razors, you'll be better at evaluating if a blade warrants sanding at all. Most aren't.!

1/4 hollow and wedges are the only blades that can withstand heavy sanding.

...

I definitely get that, good advice. I guess the blade in this post is a half hollow blade (according to #8 https://sharprazorpalace.com/razors/...ng-grinds.html), and I was concerned the metal wasn't there to get rid of the pitting on the lower half of the blade, so in the end I stopped. Also, the concave quality of the blade makes it physically harder to sand. I think sanding a blade will be a rare event, so the sanding jig will wait until the need arises! It will unquestionably make the job much easier.

Originally Posted by outback

I typically won't sand a full hollow. Instead I cut off the active rust with a single edge razor blade, then some 0000 steel wool and oil/ WD-40, then 3M metal restorer/ polish.

After cleaning up 50 or more razors, you'll be better at evaluating if a blade warrants sanding at all. Most aren't.!

1/4 hollow and wedges are the only blades that can withstand heavy sanding. I also don't go any lower in grit, than 400, only on great occasions do I drop to 320.

Making a magnetic blade holding jig is a must, for hand sanding. Let's you use both hands while sanding, and lessens the fatigue .

That's a cool jig Mike. I on the other hand sand every blade, with very few exceptions, even if it is only with 2k. I think 2k w/d shines better than polish.