230 Douris - Handsanding Does Almost Nothing

Hi folks,

I recently got my hands on a 230 Douris wedge for cheap. I know almost nothing about the razor aside from some speculation that it is French in origin. It originally came with some old, slightly warped black horn scales with some bug bites in them. Knowing I needed to do something about them, I've taken them off and am slowly restoring them: straightening them out, applying neatsfoot oil, and sanding them up to 3000 grit.

Initially, I thought the blade itself was fine but it had a few spots and flaws in it so I thought, it's apart anyway, why not just do it right and treat the blade right too. Here is the problem: I've been handsanding for HOURS on wet-dry 220 and there is barely a noticeable difference. I tried a 150 wet-dry sanding block (really meant for wood) and that did even less. What is going on here? Is the steel in this razor really that hard? Am I overlooking something? Notablely, it seems that the person who had this before also tried their hand at some restoration and I'm sure used a dremel (I think) or something because you can see some minor vertical lines across the blade from where it jumped a bit.

I've attached a few photos -- sorry for the poor lighting and photos, something that is definitely not my strength. If anyone has any suggestions how to proceed or insights into what I'm doing wrong here I would be most appreciative.

Kind regards!
Paul

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I hope this link is of some help.

https://www.filofiel.com/tiendaonlin...age=en&sort=1a

Seems likely that it's the same company that made your razor BUT they seem to have dropped making razors quite awhile ago.

Perhaps contacting them might produce some information :shrug:

It’s important to use SIC wet dry paper. It is typically black in colour, and works well with WD-40. Typically I start at 1000 and decide from there how far to drop or if I want to go finer and polish it up. 0000 steel wool and WD works great for a good deep cleaning.

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Originally Posted by cudarunner

Perhaps contacting them might produce some information :shrug:

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Thank you! I'd googled around but didn't find much. Just for the sake of curiosity, I will get in touch with them.

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Originally Posted by RezDog

It’s important to use SIC wet dry paper. It is typically black in colour, and works well with WD-40. Typically I start at 1000 and decide from there how far to drop or if I want to go finer and polish it up. 0000 steel wool and WD works great for a good deep cleaning.

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Yes, I'm using 3M 220 SIC wet dry, but just with water. I've never tried using WD-40 with it though, I'll give that a try! I'm pretty sure I have some 0000 steel wool hanging around too. Cheers!

I find wd40 or kerosene to be pretty good lubes for hand sanding steel. If you aren’t using some sort of backer for the sandpaper try that too as it will help save your fingers as well as allow you to use more pressure.

+1 to using a backer. I've found finger pressure to have too much "give" with hard steel. A wine cork backer really helps the sandpaper bite into the steel, it will also save you some finger pain.

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Originally Posted by jfk742

I find wd40 or kerosene to be pretty good lubes for hand sanding steel. If you aren’t using some sort of backer for the sandpaper try that too as it will help save your fingers as well as allow you to use more pressure.

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Originally Posted by JellyJar

+1 to using a backer. I've found finger pressure to have too much "give" with hard steel. A wine cork backer really helps the sandpaper bite into the steel, it will also save you some finger pain.

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Thank you. I have used a papermate white eraser as a backer and that works ok. I've also tried a wine cork but especially since the wedge has an essentially flat profile on both sides, the rounded cork really reduces how much surface area of the sandpaper is making contact at any given time. I think I'm going to try cutting a cork in half when I try adding in the WD-40.

Also, I did contact Douris Chastel and they got back to me very quickly. Unfortunately, they are not the manufacturer nor have they ever produced straight razors. He did say it was quite a common name in the area, though, but he couldn't tell me who or what company it might have been. So, that mystery at least continues.

I have experienced what you describe as almost fruitless sanding.

It will get better but can take a while. It is as if the blade was case-hardened. Case hardening has been discussed in threads but I don't believe anyone found proof of a manufacturer actuality doing it as part of the hardening process.

Shaping your backer helps a lot, so does changing the sanding direction.

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Originally Posted by RezDog

Shaping your backer helps a lot, so does changing the sanding direction.

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I change direction with every grit change

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Originally Posted by rolodave

....It is as if the blade was case-hardened. Case hardening has been discussed in threads but I don't believe anyone found proof of a manufacturer actuality doing it as part of the hardening process.

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That's an interesting thought RD. Case hardening typically produces a very thin surface treatment. It's a cheap way to improve a lesser quality steel that you do not expect to wear much. The amount of good steel needed for a razor, and it's ready availability in Europe, speaks against this possibility. But it's still possible.

Another test of time would occur during honing. At the edge, the thin case hardening would be abraded away exposing the softer parent material. If this blade resists surface abrasion but is difficult to hone, you might be right.

FWIW, I like the look of it.

Hand sanding is an art, look at knife makers there are many good videos on hand sanding knives with lots of good information and equipment recommendations.

Paper makes a big difference and can wear quickly. Paper management can/will go a long way to produce good quicker cutting results.

I use a wine cork and a padded wine cork, 6mm craft foam cut into 3 in squares, I also cut my paper into 3- inch pieces, (mark the back, so you know the grit. Then you have 4 edges to work from.

Yes, the cork or round backer limits the amount of contact, but that is a good thing that concentrates pressure. Rotate the cork and paper so you have fresh grit in contact. You will feel when it stops cutting effectively and allows use every inch of paper. When the paper is done, it’s done especially at low grits.

As said cross direction sanding will remove material quicker and more evenly, here padded cork sands well length wise, heel to toe.

I rarely go lower than 320 and usually start at 600 grit. 600 easily sands out with1k and 1k to near mirror. 600 will buff out with a buffer, 1k will polish with metal polish by hand, 2k easily will polish.

How you secure your blade will make a difference, remove the edge for safety.

Here is a great video series on hand sanding a Knife by Nick Wheeler to a mirror finish, note how meticulous he works, how much pressure he uses and how he changes direction and paper frequently.
(Nick Wheeler Hand sanding knives 101)