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I asked a separate question in this forum on the use of inner washers. This is a different question, but still related. Can you provide advice (or direct me to a good video) on how to pin the razor and scales. I see there are many different approaches to the pinning process. I have new horn scales with wedge already in place...and pin holes drilled. Any advice welcomed.
I think GSSixgun has a video plus I think in our library we have lots of info on pinning. Sharptonn always makes beautiful peens. It just takes practice. Look in the library for now until someone pops in with detailed info.
I always pin non pivot pin first. Second I place outside washer on rod and put it through pivot hole. Place inside washer on rod then razor another inside washer. Push pin through pivot hole in other scale and put on outside washer. Cut pin so you have about 1/32" on each outside washer.
What size washers do you use (inside and out)?Quote:
Originally Posted by bouschie
In your other thread I gave inside was her size. Outside I think is 1/16 I.D. x 1/8 O.D.
Look on micro-fasteners.com
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mmwvf8xLKmk&t=406s
Keep in mind like I mentioned on your other thread washers have two sides the flat side always goes toward the Scales inside and outside...
There are a few other vids on my channel with pinning tricks
Washers and collars
https://www.ebay.com/sch/ajkenne4xm3...1&_ipg=&_from=
https://www.ebay.com/itm/173443435586
This is two common shopping spots for me. There are others but this will get you what you need at a great price.
Ive bought from both or them. Good sellers. BTW, Kenney is part of our group, so you cant go wrong there.
I am obsessed with getting my razors to close perfectly within their scales.
Not center-wise per se, but so the left and right side of the razor hits the scale on either side at the same time when closed.
It took me a while to know where to hit the pin to shift the razors laterally and to even twist the blade a little within their scales. It's fascinating.
Mostly a question whether to hit the pin on the top, the bottom, the left or the right and the positions in between, it all can make you align your razor perfectly.
Hard to explain, but if you're as obsessed as me, you'll eventually figure out where you hit changes what.
Twisting your razor how you want it to be can also give you a clue where you need to apply more pressure on the pins.
Usually hitting the pins on where you want it on one side, does the same in the opposite way on the other side of the pin.
I do like Glenn and peen one end first, except that I use a Jacobs chuck from a drill press to hold the pin and peen one end, then do as he does cut the pin a bit long and file to length.
Here are 2 good videos on peening one from Charlie Lewis for quick, easy peening and another 3-part video by Nick Wheeler on pinning a knife handle. Nick is meticulous in his pinning; you can learn a lot from his method. He also has a great tutorial on hand sanding. Nick is known for his satin finished Bowie Knife blades.
Pinning is easier than it looks, just take your time, if you goof it up, unpin and do it again. After you pin a few, you get the hang of it, learn how to shape, and smooth the peen and adjust alignment.
If you drill your holes a bit larger than the pin, you will have some wiggle room for alignment and lessen the risk of splitting the scale, though horn is pretty forgiving. Practice by pinning 3 popsicle stick together, tight but not so tight you crack the sticks.
The problem with buying pre-drilled and pinned scales is you have no control over scale design and fit, where the blade will sit in the scales and how close or far the tip sits from the wedge. Also. if the wedge fits the taper of the tang.
How deep the blade sits in the scales is determined by the thickness of the wedge and should be fitted to the razor. Too thick and the razor can poke out the bottom, too thin and the fit looks awkward.
If the scales are pre-pinned to the wedge, you give up all the custom fitting and are stuck with where the blade sits in length and depth in the scales. All these fitting options can/will affect how the scales fit and operate. The scales must be in the proper tension to clear the tang and operate smoothly yet hold the pivot pin in proper tension for stropping and shaving.
Scales are much more than just fancy handles. There is method to the madness. Pinning is just a small part, a well thought out design and execution of details can make a big difference.
Here too is a post on making PETE thrust washers. I now use a hand-held leather punch in place of the plyer type. They make cleaner holes and I have way more control in punching the hole centered. The collars used in this post are just domed flat washers, made with a doming block.
Charlie Lewis
Nick Wheeler, the first video will take you to the second video.
How I made (PETE) Clear Plastic Thrust Washers