Second project choices?

Help me pick one for my next project.
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1)No scales but in very good shape.
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2) Needs a good cleaning some pitting no active rust
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3)Broken scale(not sure what thy are made of
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4)Broken scale, small chip in edge. Etching of a figure looks like George Washington (not sure if it could be saved of I polish the blade)
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I am leaning towards #3

3 looks like bone. Love the blade design, should clean up nicely and look good in Horn.

Start with 000 steel wool with WD40, then decide how deep you need to sand. 1k or 600 with a hard backer should polish the tang without removing too much of the stamp.

One or three would be great choices. The number three certainly looks like bone to me too. I think it pretty easy to work with. I use it frequently. I’m pretty much doing bone and horn these days. So my opinion on scale material is a wee biased.

I would start with the colonial. If you give some blade dimensions I have several sets of scales for those as I used to collect them. If I don’t have a set that fits you can make your own. They’re solid shavers and generally easy to hone. Making scales is very difficult business until you understand how they work. Making them provides you with a much better understanding, reading and theory only get you so far.

For material I have those blades in bone, horn, Bakelite and plastic. They are fairly common.

#3 is a Holler from California. An importer, likely a Wostenholm or other English make.
Scales are bone. Hard to fix that. Would require at least a replacement scale half.

Still, this looks to be the easiest blade to get shaving if you don't over-restore it. No visible spine wear, really.
JMHO

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Originally Posted by sharptonn

#3 is a Holler from California. An importer, likely a Wostenholm or other English make.
Scales are bone. Hard to fix that. Would require at least a replacement scale half.

Still, this looks to be the easiest blade to get shaving if you don't over-restore it. No visible spine wear, really.
JMHO

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Over restore?

You can over sand and ruin the blade geometry.

Some errors are sanding in a frown, putting a dip in the spine face, over sanding the toe or heel and putting dips in the blade face that screws up the bevel.

As you gain experience you will learn how to avoid these problems.

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Originally Posted by jfk742

I would start with the colonial. If you give some blade dimensions I have several sets of scales for those as I used to collect them. If I don’t have a set that fits you can make your own. They’re solid shavers and generally easy to hone. Making scales is very difficult business until you understand how they work. Making them provides you with a much better understanding, reading and theory only get you so far.

For material I have those blades in bone, horn, Bakelite and plastic. They are fairly common.

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I was thinking of gluing in a liner of some sort and repairing the original. Thoughts?

It is doable. The trick is getting the liner thick enough to have the strength yet thin enough to not make the scales fat and feel awkward in the hand. G-10 is the most likely candidate as it is very strong even at 1/32”, metal like brass could be another choice. The key here is super thin.

I was thinking G10 Thanks.

You can use a dark colour for contrast or get it in a bone colour to blend it. Outback Mike has a very good epoxy he uses. I would PM him for product details.

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Originally Posted by RezDog

You can use a dark colour for contrast or get it in a bone colour to blend it. Outback Mike has a very good epoxy he uses. I would PM him for product details.

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I will shoot him a PM. I was thinking of using u-40 Rod Bond I use it for gluing reel seats and handles to fishing rod blanks. Good bonding and flexibility.

I am not familiar with the product. Mike uses a structural epoxy and has had great results using it. The hardware store variety syringe glue that I have access to is sub par.

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Originally Posted by RezDog

I am not familiar with the product. Mike uses a structural epoxy and has had great results using it. The hardware store variety syringe glue that I have access to is sub par.

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hardware store variety syringe glue usually is. LOL I will definitely shoot mike a massage to see what he is using but I am going to give the U-40 I have a try just to see wow it works out. I even found a piece of white G-10 in my shop.

I couldn't choose just one so I cleaned them all...LOL
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The Bengall on the bottom is not the same one as in the OP :nj

That’s is a pretty nice stack of clean blades. Extra hollow blades I rarely do much with. A good scrub with 0000 and WD-40 is about it. The 1/4 hollows can be reground and made pretty pristine. Karl Johnson and Job do amazing regrinds. I haven’t played with it too much. You can basically do a regrind by hand, but it takes time and you have to be aware of the pitfalls but I’ve seen some stellar handwork around here.

I don't think #1,#3 and the bengall need any more done to them aside from reassembly and honing #2 and #4 are full or near wedge and I don't know how to proceed with them so thy are going to be set aside until I can go at them with some confidence in what I am doing..

If you have not yet, reading through the what are you working on thread can glee so,e how to tie bits as well as the workshop stickies.

Oh man, I hope you didn't sand the etching of Washington off of that #4 razor. That was very savable.

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Originally Posted by PaulFLUS

Oh man, I hope you didn't sand the etching of Washington off of that #4 razor. That was very savable.

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.
I can still see it but not as visible. even before started the head and shoulders was mostly not there.

Start out with 3M Marine Metal Polish and Restorer and a rag. Polish it until it's clean then (if necessary) darken with gun blue or black then relieve the high part back to shiny with lapping film around a dowel.
I'll try to find and link back to some threads on it. I did one or two and Richard (Geezer) has done some also.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by PaulFLUS

Start out with 3M Marine Metal Polish and Restorer and a rag. Polish it until it's clean then (if necessary) darken with gun blue or black then relieve the high part back to shiny with lapping film around a dowel.
I'll try to find and link back to some threads on it. I did one or two and Richard (Geezer) has done some also.

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I will give it a try bout the head and shoulders are not there to bring back. looks like thy were honed off

If that's the case then it may be too late already. It looked pretty good from what I could see in the pictures. Sometimes good things are just lost. Sucks when it's like that but for future reference that is a good method to know.

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Originally Posted by PaulFLUS

If that's the case then it may be too late already. It looked pretty good from what I could see in the pictures. Sometimes good things are just lost. Sucks when it's like that but for future reference that is a good method to know.

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I know the photo lighting was not that great but you see what I could see IRL.
The top 2/3s of the head was not there at all. I really didn't do much sanding at all on these and that one needed it the most.
You can see the scratches still there in the photo of them clean.

I agree it would have been nice to save but it is beyond that at this point.

Here are a couple I did. The first is stamp darkening. The second is a good example of how an etching can be enhanced. I did that one exactly the way I described earlier. Geezer does a really good how to somewhere.

https://sharprazorpalace.com/worksho...ml#post1931786

https://sharprazorpalace.com/worksho...ml#post1928920

Looks nice. I will keep it in mind for next time. Or even on the etching in the tank on #3

Thank you.