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So as I am waiting for things to come in for other razors. I used up some wood I had laying around not sure if it is mahogany or walnut. I had forgotten how much I like working with wood. I Think I'll clean the mess from around the lathe sharpen my chisels and find some thing to turn.
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How do you think I should finish them?
I think the blade needs more work but you guys put this over restore thing in my head. :thinking: lol
I don’t make wood scales but I have seen some pretty nice finishes done with tru-oil, which I believe is a Brichwood Casey product. As far as the blade goes, just even up the finish and you should be good to go.
Tru-Oil is good if the wood is porous enough to absorb it. I have some wood it won't penetrate. It looks really good on what it is good for though.
I think the blade looks pretty good. You can make yourself crazy trying to get every spot of pitting. Being a wedge you don't have to worry about foiling it as much (I have heard reports of people actually sanding right through hollow ground razors) But you can throw the geometry off if you sand too heavily on the bevel or the spine. One thing to remember is a mirror finish accentuates blemishes. A matte finish helps to hide them. With anything that has very much pitting on it I usually sand up to 800-1K, maybe just to 600 depending on how much pitting ,and then stop finishing linearly from spine to bevel on the blade and the opposite direction on the spine and tang. It adds a neat dimensional effect if you do it right. Just my experience.
Don't forget crazy glue for a finish on wood. Stuff is tough as nails.
https://sharprazorpalace.com/worksho...ints-tips.html
Bob
Tru Oil will bring life to wood, better than any other I've used.
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I'm a big fan of the Tru-oil also. It's not as hard as CA/super glue, but it can make wood look great and it's easier to work with than CA. Outback is the master of the Tru-oil but here is one of mine...Attachment 333393
You have a nice angle going on with the wedge and the spread at the pivot end looks about right to my eye. One thing I want to add is the holes for the pins. Try to make the holes at the pivot and the wedge ends for the pins about the same spacing from the ends of the scales. Having one far away and one too close doesn't look as nice. Not saying that is what you have, I just don't remember if anyone brought this up before in your quest in learning the rescale.
True oil is definitely good stuff. My only caution is if you have a rock hard hardwood like that super old heart wood southern live oak I have. It won't absorb anything. Very few woods are that dense or hard. It will smoke a 10" tablesaw blade. You shouldn't have that problem.
One thing I don't know if anyone has mentioned that you definitely did right is get the wood thin enough. It took me two or three... Maybe four sets of scales to get them thin enough. It looks good. Good work!
Yeah, I tend to go thin, with wood.
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All pined up and ready go to the stones. Well maybe. that us if I don't disassemble it again. I am not really Happy with the pining and I have a slip with the file and nicked the finish a bit.
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Thanks for all the help.
The use of a worn out DE blade, will protect your scales while cleaning up the pins.
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