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01-13-2011, 12:15 PM #1
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Thanked: 13245CA-Super Glue, Finishing Hints and Tips
I am going to take some time and give you some hints and tricks to doing these finishes...
Basically you goop it on, let it dry, and sand no really that is it...
OK here are a few hints...
Sand your wood to 220 don't go finer it wont suck up the glue, and yes all good finishes go into the wood not just on it...
Acetone is your friend yes if you wipe the scale before your first coat of CA life will be good... I could try and tell you what woods need it (oily) and which don't (dry) , a quick wipe will not hurt any wood that I have used YET..
There are basically 3 types of CA glue, Thin, Medium, and Thick I have never tried the Thick...
Use either the thin or the med or as I'll explain next both types...
When you finish using a regular wood finish, most start with what is often referred to as a "wash coat" or a thinned version of the finish... This gets deep into the wood fiber and protects (waterproofs) it much better then just a top finish...It also sets up a bonding surface for the next coats...
Thin CA is your wash coat, always start with it, put 2-3 coats of thin CA on then switch to a medium if you want, or continue with thin...
Every 1 coat of med is about the same as 3 coats of thin, as a rough guide..
Key, 3 coats of Thin or 1 coat of Med = 1 Application
With most finishes application is the key to a good smooth finish, CA is the reverse, application means nothing, it will be messy sanding makes the finish...
DON"T FORGET THE INSIDE OF THE SCALES I actually do them first with 2 wash coats then 2 aplications..
Application:
After the "wash coat" dries use 320 sandpaper and rough the surface, now 1 application of CA, then let dry, rough sand and continue...I use cut off Nitrile glove finger tips to apply CA, you can also use cello tape around a finger but I have never got that to work as well..
Rough sand 320 before the next application of CA, you will start to notice that they are sanded smooth spots and shiny spots in the finish this becomes very important later..
Continue with your applications, I don't even think about sanding for effect until 3 applications but usually 4-5 is the right spot... (That is 9-15 coats of Thin AT LEAST)
Remember that if you are using thin CA, it has to dry between each thin coat or you will fog it...
Sanding:
Here is where the finish comes into its own...
I use 320 still and get the finish fairly even, the less shiny spots, the more even the finish,, EVERY SINGLE SHINY SPOT MUST BE GONE eventually...
I use a fresh clean piece of sandpaper each time I do this first cut-down because it can tell you very fast if you burned through the finish, you will see a wood color streak on it
If you burn through do 2 more applications and try again...
As you sand for effect, watch the shiny spots get smaller and smaller, DON"T get lazy here, as they get smaller, switch to 600 and continue...
then 800 then 1500 (the grits can vary) you can wet sand if you want at about the 800 level...
Check the finish against a bright light for shiny spots, and continue lightly sanding until there are none... Yes really none, if you leave any you will be sad after the next step...
Now once you are SURE the finish is even and clear, then comes the magic...
You should have a pretty smooth glassy finish now but it needs to be "Cut" a really good inexpensive cutting compound is Turtle Wax Liquid Rubbing Compound, apply and buff and then do it again, and you will find this liquid glass finish staring back at you...
If you left any shiny spots they will now be DENTS in your finish go back to about 1000 grit or so, and sand them out and re-"cut" the finish with the compound...
A good coat of Johnson's paste wax (or the like) or Ren-Wax makes the whole thing beautiful..
I am working a set right now I will try for some pics later...
This is a general format, there are many variations to this that work...
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01-13-2011, 01:24 PM #2
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- Coffs Harbour Australia, Home of the Big Banana
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Thanked: 1072Thanks Glen. Thats going straight in the subscribed threads list. ONE DAY I'm going to get around to making some wood scales.
Grant."I aint like that no more...my wife, she cured me of drinking and wickedness"
Clint Eastwood as William Munny in Unforgiven
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01-13-2011, 01:56 PM #3
- Join Date
- Jan 2008
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- 701
Thanked: 182i need to find a way to jsut dip the and pull a vac on them to drive it deaper into the scales
i use mostly stabilized wood but i i sure do like the high gloss topcoat of CA
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01-13-2011, 02:48 PM #4
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Thanked: 74Any tips for how to best make a wedge so it fits well with the newly finished scales?
If you build the wedge before the finish, you run the risk of the wedge being too small once the finish is applied. If you build the wedge after the finish, you run the risk of sanding through the finish when shaping the wedge. My OCD demands as flush a fit for the wedge as possible.
All tips appreciated.
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01-13-2011, 03:28 PM #5
Examples of thick/thin
There should be a shrine of gratitude to Glen. Thank You! 'Can't say that enough.
It would be helpful to know how to assess a given CA as thick/thin, etc. The further from a large city one gets, the harder it is to grab a specific brand, though there's always online buying.
Any fav brands? or test/observations to assess where a given product falls in this thick/thin scale? Is there such a thing as 'thinning' a CA?
Thank You very much in advance.
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01-13-2011, 03:43 PM #6
The stuff that comes in the little metal tubes at the checkout counter...that's basically thin CA. The thickness just goes up from there.
Honestly unless you have a decent hobby shop near you online is probably going to be the way to go.
CA Glue
I tried some of my local places but even they charged more than this guy online so I figured the next time I need to re-supply just go with the online. It'll probably be a while though as I have some "company" that's been on my couch for the last 6months so I've had to put most of these projects on the back burner.
Michael
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The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to hornm For This Useful Post:
pinklather (01-13-2011), tinkersd (02-01-2017)
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01-13-2011, 03:54 PM #7
Thanks a bunch for this Glen. One day I want to get around to doing wood scales, but they always seemed like a lot of work.
What brand of CA do you recommend for medium thickness?
I have some gorilla brand CA at home - does anyone know if this is thin or medium?
Thanks again!
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01-13-2011, 03:55 PM #8
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Thanked: 13245Michael is right the regular olé Super Glue is the thin stuff, and right now the easiest to find out an about in Med, is the Gorilla Super Glue impact tough formula (I think that is that only one they make) watch the ones that say "Gap Filling" those are normally the Thick.. Not that it won't work, I just have never used it, so if you do and it works good, let us all know...
Warning: Do Not buy the bigger bottles unless you are a serious woodworker and have a way to take out the oxygen in the bottle because you will waste it...
If you are buying bottles target a 1oz size
Honestly I have never noted any real difference in the brands just Thin and Medium, I normally end up using "Super Glue" and the "Gorilla" brand because I can buy them local,, and that gives me a thin and med
I like the Woodcraft brand also, and when I get into Spokane I buy the 2oz bottle...Last edited by gssixgun; 01-13-2011 at 04:02 PM.
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The Following User Says Thank You to gssixgun For This Useful Post:
pinklather (01-13-2011)
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01-13-2011, 04:11 PM #9
Thanks Glen! There are a lot of posts I save to my favorites folder, and then there are some where all that still doesn't seem safe enough, so I copypaste the whole thing into a textfile in my saved folder. This one I'll even print for good measure. Way to go
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01-13-2011, 04:27 PM #10
Great and Timely Tip!
Thank right, I was just working out how to put a CA finish on an old shaving brush handle, this thread will give more confidence in the up and comeing bench project. [to me]
Thanks to you once more.
tinkersd, tinker to the lowest levels of society!