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Hello,
I was wondering if this is rust or something else. It's a modern day TI Evidé Sonnant.
These marks appeared after honing on Naniwa 1K, BBW with slurry and yellow coti. I noticed the spots right after bevel setting on the Nani.
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So, is this rust or something else?
Kind regards,
Mike
Attachment 336916
Blade was not totally dried. Mothers metal polish should remove it. Its only on surface now. If left and moisture is left on it then it will get worse.
Just the beginning.
I've seen this a lot, with modern blades etched that way. It reminds me more of devils spit, than rust.
Thanks a lot. I will get some metal polish.Quote:
Originally Posted by bouschie
Excuse me. What is devils spit?Quote:
Originally Posted by outback
Basically deep set rust that can render a hollow ground razor beyond repair.
That looks OK, but agree it must have not been dry enough before storage.
Rust forms real fast.
Thank you all.
So, can I remove it with metal polish such as Simichrome?
Polishing will leave a shine different from the unpolished areas.
Don't get any polish on the edge . It will dull the blade.
It may remove the etch as well, so be careful.
I applied a few drops of camelia oil right after yesterday's shave. Will this kind of oil prevent further rust/marks? Or might it worsen the current rusts/marks?
Thanks a lot for your help.
The oil will protect the blade from further rusting, but make sure the blade is dry before applying it.
I towel dry my straights after use and then leave them open on a dresser away from the humidity of the bathroom for an hour or so to air dry before putting them away. That helps ensure they don’t get stored damp.
When I know a blade is being put away for longer than a few weeks, I apply some razor oil (camelia will also work) before storing it.
Some of members store their blades using desiccant packs to make sure there is no moisture around the blade while it’s put away.
I dry my razor after using it with kitchen roll, then do 40 on cotton and 40 on leather before leaving it open in the bedroom for a couple of hours, then into the drawer with my other razors and 3 pretty big silica gel packs.
None of my razors live in the bathroom.
Another 60 on cotton and 100 on leather before the next use.
I have heard some of the members also using mineral oil on the blades after wiping them down and letting them dry. Prevents rust as well.
3M usually won't remove an acid etch but I'm not sure about a laser etch. Rust can happen just from the humidity in the air. My bathroom is cavernous so it doesn't build up in there but my son's is small and it will drip from the ceiling after a shower. He used one on my razors once and left it on the counter and the next day it had rust just like yours all over it.
...oh yeah. I keep the silica gel packs from packages to put in the bags for in progress projects.
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Thank you all for your help.
This morning I just remembered I have this piece of cloth which is said to repel humidity.
I got it from Jarrod at TSS a long time ago maybe 10 years.
Do you think this piece of cloth would do the job to prevent further rust? Should I place the razor in this piece of cloth with or without oil? Anyone has any experience with it?
Kind regards,
Mike
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Some steels are more prone to rust than others. All steel that has rusted will be susceptible. A light coat of oil is a no-brainer IMHO.
Would camelia oil alone be enough then?Quote:
Originally Posted by onimaru55
The more entry level TI's seem to have a duller satin finish than other razors. Those grind marks will hold moisture so it's more important to dry the blade off in such circumstances.
Quote:
Originally Posted by CoffeeAddict24
If you're using the same razor every day or reasonably frequently just making sure it is thoroughly dry is enough.
If a razor is going to see infrequent use or long term storage oil is a safe bet. Any non-drying oil will work. Something food safe/non toxic is better such as plain mineral oil.
Used regularly, it would be fine. Not for long storage tho.Quote:
Originally Posted by CoffeeAddict24
If you have baby oil in the house, use it. Its scented mineral oil.
[QUOTE=outback;1947712]If you have baby oil in the house, use it. Its scented mineral oil.
If your a gun person, a silicone gun cloth would work as well.
I am not sure all baby oil is OK. Reason: there is vaseline for skin use and acid-free vaseline for lubrication of metal parts. I would make sure the baby oil you are gonna use is acid-free
WD-40 is probably the best thing there is for water displacement. That's what the "WD" stands for. The draw back (in this case) is it is not good at leaving a residual. I choose not to use oil because I am more concerned with how it will affect scales. The alternative is more care and attention but everything has a price.
Balistol, Renaissance Wax, camelia oil, razor oil all have histories for protecting razors during long term storage. I’m sure there are other products that work too.
Camelia oil, I believe, is what Japanese sword and knife makers recommend for safeguarding their blades. That recommendation has a lot of years of experience behind it.
My experience is that the razor oil works well for me, is very easy to apply and has no long term negative effects on scales. It wipes off easily with a tissue or towel before stropping without leaving any residue.
Actually it's not just camelia oil. It also contains clove oil and Japanese swords are stored in a near airtight, non lacquered, resting scabbard. A lacquered scabbard is more prone to retain moisture.Quote:
Originally Posted by DZEC
As I said before camelia alone is fine for regular use just not long term storage.
I use mineral oil which is handy because I have a decent sized bottle, I also use it with my Arks often.
A long time ago I somehow got a few of those. From what I remember, they were essentially little cloth sacks impregnated by some protective oil, but I never really used them since they mainly “lubricated” the scales, which don’t need any. Any protection these sacks provide is more due to the oil than due to the sack and if they have been lying around for ten years that oil impregnation may need to be refreshed.Quote:
Originally Posted by CoffeeAddict24
I tend use my straight razors sequentially one after the other, so it might be two to three months before I use the same razor again.
I have made it a habit of drying a razor after a shave with a (toilet) paper tissue (careful that you don’t rub the tissue lenghtwise along the edge), give the blade about 20-30 laps on a strop*, then let the razor dry, and finally coat it with Ballistol before it goes back into one of my razors cases.
I use Ballistol because it works and I can easily get it, but you can also use other small arms gun oils (also known in the military as LSA - lubricant, small arms) and I believe I have once used a Tuf-Glide product while in the US.
I would not recommend baby oil and I even avoid camelia oil. I have experimented with products like these and found that (most likely because of their thicker viscosity) they tend to form small beads of oil on the surface of the blade, which tells me that to form these beads the oil film on other parts of the razor will become thinner.
On a related note, I also avoid current production Thiers-Issard razors even though I have classic Thiers-Issard and Le Grelot (now owned by Thiers-Issard) razors in my collection and enjoy them very much.
I recall some reports that newer Thiers-Issard razors are prone to corrosion and even recall someone claim that they can even form water spots during a single shave. I cannot confirm the latter from my own experience, but it made me cautious and I have stayed away from new Thiers-Issards.
*I also give a blade at least 80 laps on a strop before a shave.
Hope this helps…
B.
Thank you. Do you remember where you read that report?Quote:
Originally Posted by beluga
Quote:
Originally Posted by CoffeeAddict24
No, I am afraid I don’t and I read this comment more than two years ago.
B.
