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Thread: Is this rust or something else? (TI razor)

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    The Great & Powerful Oz onimaru55's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CoffeeAddict24 View Post
    Would camelia oil alone be enough then?
    Used regularly, it would be fine. Not for long storage tho.
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    Senior Member blabbermouth outback's Avatar
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    If you have baby oil in the house, use it. Its scented mineral oil.
    Mike

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    [QUOTE=outback;1947712]If you have baby oil in the house, use it. Its scented mineral oil.

    If your a gun person, a silicone gun cloth would work as well.
    Mike

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    I am not sure all baby oil is OK. Reason: there is vaseline for skin use and acid-free vaseline for lubrication of metal parts. I would make sure the baby oil you are gonna use is acid-free
    Plus ça change, plus c'est la même chose. Jean-Baptiste Alphonse Karr.

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    WD-40 is probably the best thing there is for water displacement. That's what the "WD" stands for. The draw back (in this case) is it is not good at leaving a residual. I choose not to use oil because I am more concerned with how it will affect scales. The alternative is more care and attention but everything has a price.
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    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Balistol, Renaissance Wax, camelia oil, razor oil all have histories for protecting razors during long term storage. I’m sure there are other products that work too.

    Camelia oil, I believe, is what Japanese sword and knife makers recommend for safeguarding their blades. That recommendation has a lot of years of experience behind it.

    My experience is that the razor oil works well for me, is very easy to apply and has no long term negative effects on scales. It wipes off easily with a tissue or towel before stropping without leaving any residue.
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    The Great & Powerful Oz onimaru55's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DZEC View Post
    Camelia oil, I believe, is what Japanese sword and knife makers recommend for safeguarding their blades. That recommendation has a lot of years of experience behind it.
    Actually it's not just camelia oil. It also contains clove oil and Japanese swords are stored in a near airtight, non lacquered, resting scabbard. A lacquered scabbard is more prone to retain moisture.
    As I said before camelia alone is fine for regular use just not long term storage.
    Last edited by onimaru55; 11-05-2021 at 11:48 PM.
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    I use mineral oil which is handy because I have a decent sized bottle, I also use it with my Arks often.
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    Quote Originally Posted by CoffeeAddict24 View Post
    Thank you all for your help.

    This morning I just remembered I have this piece of cloth which is said to repel humidity.
    I got it from Jarrod at TSS a long time ago maybe 10 years.

    Do you think this piece of cloth would do the job to prevent further rust? Should I place the razor in this piece of cloth with or without oil? Anyone has any experience with it?

    Kind regards,
    Mike

    Attachment 336943
    A long time ago I somehow got a few of those. From what I remember, they were essentially little cloth sacks impregnated by some protective oil, but I never really used them since they mainly “lubricated” the scales, which don’t need any. Any protection these sacks provide is more due to the oil than due to the sack and if they have been lying around for ten years that oil impregnation may need to be refreshed.

    I tend use my straight razors sequentially one after the other, so it might be two to three months before I use the same razor again.
    I have made it a habit of drying a razor after a shave with a (toilet) paper tissue (careful that you don’t rub the tissue lenghtwise along the edge), give the blade about 20-30 laps on a strop*, then let the razor dry, and finally coat it with Ballistol before it goes back into one of my razors cases.
    I use Ballistol because it works and I can easily get it, but you can also use other small arms gun oils (also known in the military as LSA - lubricant, small arms) and I believe I have once used a Tuf-Glide product while in the US.

    I would not recommend baby oil and I even avoid camelia oil. I have experimented with products like these and found that (most likely because of their thicker viscosity) they tend to form small beads of oil on the surface of the blade, which tells me that to form these beads the oil film on other parts of the razor will become thinner.

    On a related note, I also avoid current production Thiers-Issard razors even though I have classic Thiers-Issard and Le Grelot (now owned by Thiers-Issard) razors in my collection and enjoy them very much.
    I recall some reports that newer Thiers-Issard razors are prone to corrosion and even recall someone claim that they can even form water spots during a single shave. I cannot confirm the latter from my own experience, but it made me cautious and I have stayed away from new Thiers-Issards.


    *I also give a blade at least 80 laps on a strop before a shave.


    Hope this helps…



    B.
    Last edited by beluga; 11-10-2021 at 09:50 AM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by beluga View Post
    A long time ago I somehow got a few of those. From what I remember, they were essentially little cloth sacks impregnated by some protective oil, but I never really used them since they mainly “lubricated” the scales, which don’t need any. Any protection these sacks provide is more due to the oil than due to the sack and if they have been lying around for ten years that oil impregnation may need to be refreshed.

    I tend use my straight razors sequentially one after the other, so it might be two to three months before I use the same razor again.
    I have made it a habit of drying a razor after a shave with a (toilet) paper tissue (careful that you don’t rub the tissue lenghtwise along the edge), give the blade about 20-30 laps on a strop*, then let the razor dry, and finally coat it with Ballistol before it goes back into one of my razors cases.
    I use Ballistol because it works and I can easily get it, but you can also use other small arms gun oils (also known in the military as LSA - lubricant, small arms) and I believe I have once used a Tuf-Glide product while in the US.

    I would not recommend baby oil and I even avoid camelia oil. I have experimented with products like these and found that (most likely because of their thicker viscosity) they tend to form small beads of oil on the surface of the blade, which tells me that to form these beads the oil film on other parts of the razor will become thinner.

    On a related note, I also avoid current production Thiers-Issard razors even though I have classic Thiers-Issard and Le Grelot (now owned by Thiers-Issard) razors in my collection and enjoy them very much.
    I recall some reports that newer Thiers-Issard razors are prone to corrosion and even recall someone claim that they can even form water spots during a single shave. I cannot confirm the latter from my own experience, but it made me cautious and I have stayed away from new Thiers-Issards.


    *I also give a blade at least 80 laps on a strop before a shave.


    Hope this helps…



    B.
    Thank you. Do you remember where you read that report?
    Coffee Addict

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