Old Wade and Butcher Need some advice

I picked up an old W&B wedge with black horn scales period correct late 1800's. The scales are in good condition but dry and showing their age. How best to clean and polish the scales. The blade is in good condition and won't require much more than a dremel wheel and polish and a refreshed and sharpened edge. I want to get the horn in the best condition and I'm not interested in replacing them. I'm thinking some toothpaste , brush, and some wax. I have also thought some wet sanding w/2k or better might be an option. I'm looking for some ideas. Thanks in advance.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Firebox

I picked up an old W&B wedge with black horn scales period correct late 1800's. The scales are in good condition but dry and showing their age. How best to clean and polish the scales. The blade is in good condition and won't require much more than a dremel wheel and polish and a refreshed and sharpened edge. I want to get the horn in the best condition and I'm not interested in replacing them. I'm thinking some toothpaste , brush, and some wax. I have also thought some wet sanding w/2k or better might be an option. I'm looking for some ideas. Thanks in advance.

---

Whatever you do, please stay away from a Dremel tool; neither on the blade, nor on the scales. If you've got the time, inclination, and supplies, go with hand sanding; you'll be glad you did.

Smooth shaving!

I hear you. I've used a dremel, felt wheel, and flitz on all of my previously restored old blades. I agree it take more care not to damage an edge. I've never used anything other than a felt wheel. The W&B has some nice etchings on the blade and I'm hoping to polish it with removing it , which I'm sure sanding would do. Thanks for reviewing my post.

Outback is the pro when it comes to horn, but...
You could drop the whole razor or pull the pivot pin and soak the scales in a bath of neatfoot oil for a couple of days. A week or more would be even better. Then clean and dry and polish however you plan on polishing.
Using a Dremel on horn is not needed or recommended but it's yours so... Be careful.

You can find a post by Outback that he recently posted on restoring scales in the "what are you working on" thread.

Hadn't though about neatsfoot oil. Sounds like a good idea. Thanks.
BTW. Guess I wasn't very clear. The dremel and felt pads are for polishing the steel.

I'll second the give the scales a nice long soaking in Neatsfoot oil. It will re hydrate them.

Bob

Sounds like a good direction. Wax afterwards?

Do yourself and that etching a favor and get a tub of 3M Marine Metal Polish and Restorer. It will work miracles and NOT remove etchings. Polish BY HAND with a rag and some of that and you won't believe the difference. It is not the cheapest thing in the world, but it is well worth every penny of it.

...and while you're at it cut the plug off the end of that Dremel so you don't get tempted to get it within 50 meters of that blade.

So to make the point here is a grubby one I pulled at random to give a demonstration.
Attachment 340515

I took some electrical tape and taped half the blade.
Attachment 340516

Then spent 5 minutes, and I timed it down to the second, with a rag and the 3M and took more pictures.
Attachment 340517

You can especially see the difference when you take the tape off.
Attachment 340518

I think what really makes the point is you couldn't even see the tang stamp before. Give that stuff a try! You'll be glad you did. It's a game changer.

Here's another angle.
Attachment 340520

You're correct not cheap. Amazon was $31. I have a tub on the way. Thanks. Always looking for new options.

It goes a long way though. I have a tub I use a LOT and it has lasted for over 2 years and is still 1/3 full.

...the other thing to note is that it's like Bryl Cream: a little dab'll do ya. I probably could have gotten better results but since I was clocking myself I stuck my finger in and got a dollup which tuned out to be too much. It works better when it's a thin paste. In fact sometimes I just use the rag with the residual from last time.

Mike (Outback) is the master of this method and has some really helpful posts about it in the "what are you working on" thread.

As to the horn, the 3M will clean it up some too. W/D sandpaper will smooth it well if it has gotten grainy but the best thing I have found for horn are the fingernail buffer sponges; the multi sided ones used in a progression will make it look smooth like celluloid. There are also posts about that in "what are you working on."

I need pics. My crystal ball quit working, so I can't give my opinion on, how to, IMO.

But in my opinion.... All ol' horn scales need to come apart. Might look good in the out, but guaranteed there's more between them.

Nice part about horn....its easily repaired. Even when piece's are missing.

https://sharprazorpalace.com/worksho...ml#post1932806

I really, really wanna spend a week or two with ol' mate outback Mike in his workshop, but he's soooo far away:(

here is the new project

Interesting coincidence. I recommended the 3M to another fellow restorer about a week ago who mentioned a blade with an etch. Here is his response:
Attachment 340523
And the pictures
Attachment 340524
Attachment 340525

I have two other W&B shavers in the drawer that have horn scales. Now all three are soaking in neatsfoot oil. When they come out, they all will experience the 3M marine polish adventure. I post photos later.