Would you re-pin Ivory just to clean a rusted tang?

As the title says, I obviously have a razor with Ivory scales. I'm excited since they passed all the tests to figure out whether it's Ivory that I know of (along with other factors that point to ivory). Anyway, now I have a dilemma. The razor is in great shape, except by the pivot pin. There is a BUNCH of rust in there. No way I could get this stuff out without damaging the scales. Now that is my least favorite place for rust to be on a razor (besides the edge) and I really want this thing to be flawless again so I can use it in rotation maybe. Looks like it will be a GREAT shaver.

Anyway the problem comes when I actually de-pin and re-pin the razor. It doesn't have any washers to protect the ivory, so when I try getting that pin out, if I slip up :gth. Besides that, the scales already are cracked from the very end up past the end pin (inch total maybe). It's integrity right now is fine, but it might loosen if I remove it. The scales could also use a cleaning on the insides... What would you do? I doubt I'd sell this thing ever (let alone soon) and my most important aspect is being able to shave with it. If it is a rare item however, should I keep it original? Even if that means leaving the bad rust and never shaving with it? To me that is almost a useless razor. Maybe I just need some third party justification here :shrug:. I'm stuck with this one.

I have a razor with the same situation as you
mention, a pin without washers around it. I was
thinking the same thing as you. If you did slip
up and hit the area around the pin, when you repinned
it maybe putting wide washers under the pin would
hide any damage, unless of course you went way off
track. Just a thought.

John

As you well know Ivory is very liable to crack even if you look at it the wrong way and with a crack already in it once you start monkeying with the pivot it will probably be toast. I would just clean it up the best I could without taking the pin out. maybe soak it in something and try a cape cod polishing cloth. You can really squeeze them into tight places.

You could also use dental floss with some Maas or Flitz on it .

maybe you could clip the pin somehow from the inside with a jewelers saw.. the blade would prolly fit in there.. then you could pop the pins from the back.. gently

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Originally Posted by dave5225

You could also use dental floss with some Maas or Flitz on it .

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I know from experience that this trick will not clear up the tang. It seriously needs sanding.

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Originally Posted by deadringer

maybe you could clip the pin somehow from the inside with a jewelers saw.. the blade would prolly fit in there.. then you could pop the pins from the back.. gently

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I like this idea! I just need a jeweler's saw... :shrug:

I remove them then use fiberglass cloth and resin to put a backing on the inside of both scales This will also make the existing cracks almost invisible.After sanding and polishing it is an invisible repair,and will prevent any future cracking.If you dont repair the existing cracks they usually get worse from the pressure you exert while stropping. Use the finest (thinnest) cloth available.The resin I use is System 3 Laminating resin,but any fiberglass resin will work.I have done a lot of these,including a Rodgers 7 day set a few years ago,and it still looks great.This will also work even if pieces are completely broken off just super glue the piece back to hold in place,and do the laminate.This is a real easy repair to do,Best Regards Gary

the fiberglass is a great idea.. heres a link to a jewelers saw and blades on the bay
http://cgi.ebay.com/JEWELERS-ADJUSTA...QQcmdZViewItem

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Originally Posted by Traveller

I remove them then use fiberglass cloth and resin to put a backing on the inside of both scales This will also make the existing cracks almost invisible.After sanding and polishing it is an invisible repair,and will prevent any future cracking.If you dont repair the existing cracks they usually get worse from the pressure you exert while stropping. Use the finest (thinnest) cloth available.The resin I use is System 3 Laminating resin,but any fiberglass resin will work.I have done a lot of these,including a Rodgers 7 day set a few years ago,and it still looks great.This will also work even if pieces are completely broken off just super glue the piece back to hold in place,and do the laminate.This is a real easy repair to do,Best Regards Gary

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Wow, that is great info Gary! Thanks. Do you usually start sanding with a higher grit like 1200 or 2k since there is little damage and Ivory polishes so well? Would a coating of Renaissance Wax work well after the repair is complete? I have another razor coming soon from Topher which has Ivory scales for sure. This one I am trying to fix is from a seven day set.

Rough up the inside of the scales with 220 grit so the resin will stick.polish the outers with 400/600/then buff.Yes I use the Rennisance wax on everything

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Originally Posted by Philadelph

Anyway the problem comes when I actually de-pin and re-pin the razor. It doesn't have any washers to protect the ivory, so when I try getting that pin out, if I slip up :gth.

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I've never drilled a scale before [but I'm thinking about it with my ivories], and I'm having trouble picturing the problem. Do you mean having a washer on the outside of the scale? To stop the drill bit from damaging the ivory if it skips off the pin? (I guess a drill press is best, huh?)

Could you drill a hole the diameter of the pin through a small piece of sheet metal [or find an appropriate size washer], then tape the "washer" so it fits down over/around the pin? Then they'll be a washer for protection, right?

I'm just brainstorming without a clear picture, so forgive me if I sound silly.

Thanks,
Christopher

Personally I would NEVER drill out a pin in ivory scales without a drill press.

With a drill press you need to stabilize the razor, and then you gently drill down with a 1/16" drill, always taking care to use minimal pressure (let the drill do the work) and allow the pin time to cool if -> drill in intervals.

Without a drill press there is always the chance of slipping.
And it would royally suck to destroy genuine ivory scales.

A washer around the pin to protect the scales seems ok, but if the drill slipps from the pin, it will likely slip from the washer as well, and roll across the washer until it embeds itself in the 'soft' ivory.
A metal sheet would probably work, but all things considered I'd use a drill press.

Actually, the best way to use a drill press is to take the razor to the drill bit, not lower the drill onto the razor. Put some electrical tape around the pivot, with a hole in it directly over the pin. That'll give you a little margin of error to work with in case you slip. Cradle the razor in both hands, then brace your arms on the drill press table and raise the razor up toward the spinning bit. You need a SHARP bit. If it starts to wander, you can compensate by shifting your fingers slightly.

I think I could successfully unpin and repin ivory this way, but it's a pretty big risk. The washerless thing is what worries me the most. At least you know how to make some nice replacement scales if these get trashed. :)

Josh

I would use a center drill to cut the pins. A center drill is stiff enough that it doesn't flex like a regular twist drill. I have delt with Enco and find them to be a good company here is a link to the drills I mentioned Enco - Guaranteed Lowest Prices on Machinery, Measuring Tools, Cutting Tools and Shop Supplies.

Don

+1 on Gary's idea the re-enforced scales from the back would probably be the way I would do it also. I was thinking an actual liner (brass) but I like the fiberglass cloth idea too....
+ 1 on the drill press also they are worth they weight in gold for de-pinning *with a sharp bit*...
Good luck!!!!

Wow, this one I forgot about...

I actually got the pins out a long time ago. Forget exactly how too, but I remember it not being too difficult. I do have a drill press at hand but don't remember if that's what I did.

Anyway, as for Gary's idea, that's what I was leaning towards. So the scales have just been sitting there (I've since gotten more ivory scales, lol). Then it did occur to be why not use a metal liner? That is what I think I'm gonna do once I get back to them. Aluminum probably.