Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 16
  1. #1
    The Razor Whisperer Philadelph's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Rhode Island
    Posts
    2,197
    Thanked: 474

    Default Would you re-pin Ivory just to clean a rusted tang?

    As the title says, I obviously have a razor with Ivory scales. I'm excited since they passed all the tests to figure out whether it's Ivory that I know of (along with other factors that point to ivory). Anyway, now I have a dilemma. The razor is in great shape, except by the pivot pin. There is a BUNCH of rust in there. No way I could get this stuff out without damaging the scales. Now that is my least favorite place for rust to be on a razor (besides the edge) and I really want this thing to be flawless again so I can use it in rotation maybe. Looks like it will be a GREAT shaver.

    Anyway the problem comes when I actually de-pin and re-pin the razor. It doesn't have any washers to protect the ivory, so when I try getting that pin out, if I slip up . Besides that, the scales already are cracked from the very end up past the end pin (inch total maybe). It's integrity right now is fine, but it might loosen if I remove it. The scales could also use a cleaning on the insides... What would you do? I doubt I'd sell this thing ever (let alone soon) and my most important aspect is being able to shave with it. If it is a rare item however, should I keep it original? Even if that means leaving the bad rust and never shaving with it? To me that is almost a useless razor. Maybe I just need some third party justification here . I'm stuck with this one.

  2. #2
    Str8 Apprentice, aka newb kerryman71's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Worcester, MA
    Posts
    708
    Thanked: 48

    Default

    I have a razor with the same situation as you
    mention, a pin without washers around it. I was
    thinking the same thing as you. If you did slip
    up and hit the area around the pin, when you repinned
    it maybe putting wide washers under the pin would
    hide any damage, unless of course you went way off
    track. Just a thought.

    John

  3. #3
    The Hurdy Gurdy Man thebigspendur's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    New Mexico
    Posts
    33,036
    Thanked: 5020
    Blog Entries
    4

    Default

    As you well know Ivory is very liable to crack even if you look at it the wrong way and with a crack already in it once you start monkeying with the pivot it will probably be toast. I would just clean it up the best I could without taking the pin out. maybe soak it in something and try a cape cod polishing cloth. You can really squeeze them into tight places.
    No matter how many men you kill you can't kill your successor-Emperor Nero

  4. #4
    Natty Boh dave5225's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    1,462
    Thanked: 183

    Default

    You could also use dental floss with some Maas or Flitz on it .
    Greetings , from Dundalk , Maryland . The place where normal people , fear to go .

  5. #5
    Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    46
    Thanked: 3

    Default maybe..

    maybe you could clip the pin somehow from the inside with a jewelers saw.. the blade would prolly fit in there.. then you could pop the pins from the back.. gently

  6. #6
    The Razor Whisperer Philadelph's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Rhode Island
    Posts
    2,197
    Thanked: 474

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by dave5225 View Post
    You could also use dental floss with some Maas or Flitz on it .
    I know from experience that this trick will not clear up the tang. It seriously needs sanding.

    Quote Originally Posted by deadringer View Post
    maybe you could clip the pin somehow from the inside with a jewelers saw.. the blade would prolly fit in there.. then you could pop the pins from the back.. gently
    I like this idea! I just need a jeweler's saw...

  7. #7
    Senior Member Traveller's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Port Isabel Texas
    Posts
    804
    Thanked: 57

    Default

    I remove them then use fiberglass cloth and resin to put a backing on the inside of both scales This will also make the existing cracks almost invisible.After sanding and polishing it is an invisible repair,and will prevent any future cracking.If you dont repair the existing cracks they usually get worse from the pressure you exert while stropping. Use the finest (thinnest) cloth available.The resin I use is System 3 Laminating resin,but any fiberglass resin will work.I have done a lot of these,including a Rodgers 7 day set a few years ago,and it still looks great.This will also work even if pieces are completely broken off just super glue the piece back to hold in place,and do the laminate.This is a real easy repair to do,Best Regards Gary
    Last edited by Traveller; 02-03-2008 at 02:33 AM.

  8. #8
    Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Posts
    46
    Thanked: 3

    Default ..

    the fiberglass is a great idea.. heres a link to a jewelers saw and blades on the bay
    http://cgi.ebay.com/JEWELERS-ADJUSTA...QQcmdZViewItem

  9. #9
    The Razor Whisperer Philadelph's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Rhode Island
    Posts
    2,197
    Thanked: 474

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Traveller View Post
    I remove them then use fiberglass cloth and resin to put a backing on the inside of both scales This will also make the existing cracks almost invisible.After sanding and polishing it is an invisible repair,and will prevent any future cracking.If you dont repair the existing cracks they usually get worse from the pressure you exert while stropping. Use the finest (thinnest) cloth available.The resin I use is System 3 Laminating resin,but any fiberglass resin will work.I have done a lot of these,including a Rodgers 7 day set a few years ago,and it still looks great.This will also work even if pieces are completely broken off just super glue the piece back to hold in place,and do the laminate.This is a real easy repair to do,Best Regards Gary

    Wow, that is great info Gary! Thanks. Do you usually start sanding with a higher grit like 1200 or 2k since there is little damage and Ivory polishes so well? Would a coating of Renaissance Wax work well after the repair is complete? I have another razor coming soon from Topher which has Ivory scales for sure. This one I am trying to fix is from a seven day set.

  10. #10
    Senior Member Traveller's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Port Isabel Texas
    Posts
    804
    Thanked: 57

    Default

    Rough up the inside of the scales with 220 grit so the resin will stick.polish the outers with 400/600/then buff.Yes I use the Rennisance wax on everything

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •