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Thread: How I make scales...step by step
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02-27-2008, 03:17 AM #1
How I make scales...step by step
Making scale step by step
Hi. I have no pretence on my abilities to make scales, this is my second try at it. The first ones came out really nice so I decided to try my luck at it again. http://straightrazorpalace.com/showthread.php?t=17580
Here I go, hope everything is well explained and easy to understand, english is not being my native tongue. I have added some pictures.
First you have to have good hard wood. I have Canary, Palisandre, Zebra, Maple and Amarante. This latter will be use this time. Amarante is a South America hard wood violet in color and extremely hard.
I buy my wood in pieces of 1½"x1½" by 6". These small pieces are difficult to cut so not to injure my hands I glue the piece to a bigger piece of soft wood. I use this bigger piece to align on my radial saw. I cut two slabs of about +1/8" thick. Two slabs will make 2 sets of scales (4 pieces).
After cutting the slabs I join them together with double face tape. This helps for cutting, drilling and sanding, helps to get symmetric pieces.
After joining them I trace the profile of the scale using the original with a medium "Sharpy" so I have an easy line to saw and sand down to correct size.
I roughly shape them on a small band saw than I go to a 1" band sander to reduce the rough cut to a more accurate shape. This is where the thick line comes handy, I just sand it down.
At this time I will drill the 1/16 holes while the scale are still flat and joined together.
And now to the hand sanding. Using some 320 and 400 grit sanding paper I will really get the profile to the exact size and I will proceed to round the sides and ends. With this Amarante wood you have to sand for a long time to get any result. After getting it right I'll go to 800 and 1500 grit sand paper for the "final touch".
After this I will separate the scale using a knife to pry them apart. Now I will flatten the inside on a flat piece of extra fine sand paper.
Now I will measure and make the wedge, in this case a flat wedge. I'll use maple wood that should contrast nicely with the violet wood. I drill the oversize wedge and glue it to one side of the scale. I'll put the scale together with 1/16 brass nail and gently sand down the wedge to the right dimension, I'll finish sanding by hand.
I only glue the wedge to one scale so it leaves the second scale free and easier to put in the pins, inside washer and blade.
This is how I do it.
Now I have an offer for you guys. I have made two sets of scale so if anyone of you want to finish both of them with CA or Epoxy I will gladly give you one set of scales and you can return me the other.
Jacques
Quebec, Canada
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The Following 23 Users Say Thank You to Jacques13 For This Useful Post:
alb1981 (08-19-2011), andrewmurray86 (06-03-2014), blackskorpion (08-22-2008), boballman (04-12-2011), ContenderhunterPA (10-25-2009), dbseney (03-13-2012), Hillie (07-17-2009), kwlfca (04-04-2013), ladavis89 (03-07-2012), Lejob (03-04-2015), lungo (08-20-2011), mahaney (04-15-2012), MaillerPhong (01-28-2009), Malachi306 (01-14-2015), mhenson (10-18-2012), milehiscott (12-22-2011), MW76 (02-02-2016), Pi3 (04-04-2013), Qatsats (04-12-2011), STF (02-05-2021), Sunbane (05-02-2009), Terje K (02-18-2012), the wanderer (07-15-2009)
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02-27-2008, 03:31 AM #2
- Join Date
- Feb 2008
- Location
- Ottawa
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- 14
Thanked: 0Thats awsome!! That will for sure be my next project, just need to get a blade.
Thanks soo much!
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02-27-2008, 04:00 AM #3
- Join Date
- Jan 2008
- Posts
- 39
Thanked: 0epoxy resin finish is very easy, measure, mix and pour. Oh yea, and make a stand to elevate the scales. I spent $20 on the resin and hardener and it will do at least 50 sets of scales. the bottle says it will over 4.5 square feet at 1/16" thickness. I just did my first set this evening. We will see how they turn out tomorrow.
Ty
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02-27-2008, 04:02 AM #4
- Join Date
- Jan 2008
- Posts
- 39
Thanked: 0oh yea, this is pretty much what I did
http://straightrazorpalace.com/showthread.php?t=17422
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02-27-2008, 02:28 PM #5
- Join Date
- Jan 2008
- Location
- Brighton, MA
- Posts
- 226
Thanked: 3Very helpful, Jacques. Thanks! Though I can't say I've read every post on the forums, that's the clearest description of the process I've seen yet. And don't worry about your English skills - it's very clear what you're saying. I wish I could write half as well in another language.
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02-27-2008, 04:59 PM #6
can you post pics of you pinning those nails? i use the brass rod and want to see the end result of the nails.
vgod
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03-04-2008, 08:32 PM #7
Thx for this post ,i want to replace the scales on my wapi this will be very helpfull.I noticed you are using 1/16 brass nails ,did u put a brass washer on the other side or did u just peen it as is with no washer. From what i read in some other posts ,was to get brass rod and washers but i was unable to find them in my area.I do have the brass nails ,i am a noob to str8 shaving i just want to remove the steel scales from my wapi before i accidently decapitate myself they are way to heavy.
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03-05-2008, 02:17 PM #8
Actualy these nail (steel brass finish) jsut serve to hold everything together during work. I use bolts and nuts from Microfastener.com.
Jacques
Laval, Quebec
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05-13-2008, 04:05 PM #9
Thanks for the Instructions
Hi,
I just finished my first restoration. I followed your instructions and I think it came out great for my first attempt. I purchased a German blade with rust on it and cheap, thin, ugly plastic scales for under $10 on eBay. I made new scales out of Mahogany, cleaned up the blade and pinned it.
Thank you for your post. It helped me a lot.
I know there is a gallery where members can post pics. I stumbled upon it once but can't find it this morning. Can someone please send me a PM with instructions how to post my before and after pics.
Thanks.
Doug
aka. JetHed
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05-13-2008, 05:32 PM #10
The nails are only brass coated. They are a steel nail and very hard to peen over. They will typically start bending in the middle before fully peened. Stick with the brass rod or nut/bolt configuration.