-
One piece scales?
I have been looking at various styles of scales to try my hand at fabrication.
I have been thinking of going with a one piece style, eliminating the need for a pin or wedge at the bottom of the scales. My intent is to cut and shape the scales as one solid block of wood, then rip cut a space in the center for the blade then use a single tang-pin to mount the blade.
Is there any dis-advantage to this design? I could see it possibly making the scales a bit heavier on the end affecting balance if you don't compensate for it, but that is the only thing I can really think of to watch out for. What else am I missing? Is there any real advantage with using a 2-piece design with a pin at the end?
I am asking since this seems like the simplest design and it will be my first attempt at my own scales; I'd hate to waste some really nice wood with an experiment.
Thanks!
v/r
Allen
-
I think that it is a good way to go. The only time I have had problems with a one piece design is when I used an old Sheffield with a really tapered tang. I think these need a real wedge shaped spacer to work right. On everything else I think it is the bees knees.
Charlie
-
I'm curious how you finish the interior of one piece scales adequately.
I've been thinking I may make 2 piece scales and then use glue on the spacer to provide a different look.
-Bob
:w
-
I usually use a folded paper towel to finish the insides of one piece scales.
Charlie
-
One of the reasons I was looking at a 1pc design is the wood I have. It is a dark Hawaiian Koa that will require no stain and has an even color with nice grain.
I will be sanding and cleaning the interior with a Dremel and hand-sanding.
As for sealing once it is cut, I am still contemplating different options but looking at thinning some clear resin (similar to what cannon described recently) but I will look harder once I start to finalize the shape and design. I have some ideas for a jig to use for pouring the resin if that's what I settle on.
The blades I am looking at using are a 5/8 Morley with a barbers-notch and a very nice 6/8 Duble Duck nbr 1. Both tangs are flat so mounting should be easy. I am just going to be spending a lot of time and effort to try to balance the scales for the blades. I have discovered I prefer larger and heavier scales that tend to slightly out-weigh the blades.
Actually, my biggest issue so far is finding pins and washers. I dont plan on using a micro fastener setup and I have noticed a few places online for the pin stock but I haven't found anything for the washers yet (it doesn't help that I don't know what sizes to buy either).
I'm not cutting any of the Koa until I have the associated hardware and a few mock-ups done. If my patience holds out (not a good bet), I will wait until I head up to my folks place the end of March to cut the Koa (better tools as a wood-worker).
Keep the suggestions and guidance coming; I'll take all of the adult supervision I can get!
v/r
Allen
-
Both maestro LIV and Tim Zowada use one piece scales on their razors. I have two like that and they are definitely the way to go. All you need are the right tools to do the job.
-
Before you go cutting out the shape of your scales........... cut the razor slot first! You will find it a lot easier and safer as well. I've done a few this way. Start with your squared block, cut or rip the slot. Then fill the slot with a piece of wood until you shape the scales. You can then remove your scrap piece of wood and do any clean up to the scales that is needed.