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  1. #1
    Traveling east..... RMC_SS_LDO's Avatar
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    Default One piece scales?

    I have been looking at various styles of scales to try my hand at fabrication.

    I have been thinking of going with a one piece style, eliminating the need for a pin or wedge at the bottom of the scales. My intent is to cut and shape the scales as one solid block of wood, then rip cut a space in the center for the blade then use a single tang-pin to mount the blade.

    Is there any dis-advantage to this design? I could see it possibly making the scales a bit heavier on the end affecting balance if you don't compensate for it, but that is the only thing I can really think of to watch out for. What else am I missing? Is there any real advantage with using a 2-piece design with a pin at the end?

    I am asking since this seems like the simplest design and it will be my first attempt at my own scales; I'd hate to waste some really nice wood with an experiment.

    Thanks!


    v/r

    Allen

  2. #2
    Senior Member blabbermouth spazola's Avatar
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    I think that it is a good way to go. The only time I have had problems with a one piece design is when I used an old Sheffield with a really tapered tang. I think these need a real wedge shaped spacer to work right. On everything else I think it is the bees knees.

    Charlie

  3. #3
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    I'm curious how you finish the interior of one piece scales adequately.
    I've been thinking I may make 2 piece scales and then use glue on the spacer to provide a different look.

    -Bob

  4. #4
    Senior Member blabbermouth spazola's Avatar
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    I usually use a folded paper towel to finish the insides of one piece scales.

    Charlie

  5. #5
    Traveling east..... RMC_SS_LDO's Avatar
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    One of the reasons I was looking at a 1pc design is the wood I have. It is a dark Hawaiian Koa that will require no stain and has an even color with nice grain.

    I will be sanding and cleaning the interior with a Dremel and hand-sanding.

    As for sealing once it is cut, I am still contemplating different options but looking at thinning some clear resin (similar to what cannon described recently) but I will look harder once I start to finalize the shape and design. I have some ideas for a jig to use for pouring the resin if that's what I settle on.

    The blades I am looking at using are a 5/8 Morley with a barbers-notch and a very nice 6/8 Duble Duck nbr 1. Both tangs are flat so mounting should be easy. I am just going to be spending a lot of time and effort to try to balance the scales for the blades. I have discovered I prefer larger and heavier scales that tend to slightly out-weigh the blades.

    Actually, my biggest issue so far is finding pins and washers. I dont plan on using a micro fastener setup and I have noticed a few places online for the pin stock but I haven't found anything for the washers yet (it doesn't help that I don't know what sizes to buy either).

    I'm not cutting any of the Koa until I have the associated hardware and a few mock-ups done. If my patience holds out (not a good bet), I will wait until I head up to my folks place the end of March to cut the Koa (better tools as a wood-worker).

    Keep the suggestions and guidance coming; I'll take all of the adult supervision I can get!

    v/r

    Allen

  6. #6
    The Hurdy Gurdy Man thebigspendur's Avatar
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    Both maestro LIV and Tim Zowada use one piece scales on their razors. I have two like that and they are definitely the way to go. All you need are the right tools to do the job.
    No matter how many men you kill you can't kill your successor-Emperor Nero

  7. #7
    Senior Member denmason's Avatar
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    Before you go cutting out the shape of your scales........... cut the razor slot first! You will find it a lot easier and safer as well. I've done a few this way. Start with your squared block, cut or rip the slot. Then fill the slot with a piece of wood until you shape the scales. You can then remove your scrap piece of wood and do any clean up to the scales that is needed.

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