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Thought this deserved its own thread as opposed to hijacking the other one.
Ilija, one question. When you speak of having the flap wheel turning away from the edge which one of the pics are you referring to? I think it's the top one but want to just clarify.
Also why did you have to polish the 'dangerous section' the way you did - is that just the best way to get at that piece of metal on the blade?
Thanks for your time on this.
Graham - the top one illustrates how I use the flap wheel.
I haven't used one (yet), but if I had to choose I would go with the 1st illustration, this to avoid the flaps rotating into the edge.
You are correct sir with the 1st pic.
Even with a buffing wheel, the blade edge can quickly "grab" the wheel and the results are generally disasterous to a blade (and the wheel)! This problem is magnified if you are working a spike point and get a little too close to the point!
I will try to set the blade flat on a smooth surface (an old flat board) and work from the spine down toward the edge. Always work slowly and ALWAYS be aware of the direction of rotation!
Yup, the top one is the one to strive for. not just for a dremel but also on a buffing wheel. sometimes the edge get closer to the wheel an you think and it will pull the blade.better to be pulled to the spine then to the very edge.
the bottom one is a good way to chip or crack the blade, not a nice lesson to learn. the blade can be pulled and you wind up smacking it on the mandrel... and using foul language :D
Also want to ask. How much pressure are you guys using when polishing using a dremel ?
Very little. When polishing, let the buffer and polish do the work. The issue you can run into with more pressure is heat. Heat is a big enemy since it can quickly affect the temper of the blade. You may not think there is any heat building, but it tends to be localized. If it gets hot near the edge (where the metal is much thinner) it will have bad results! Keep the pressure light and keep the pad MOVING! A little polish goes a long way and the more abrasive you get (read compounds or flappers) the quicker you can scorch the blade.Quote:
Originally Posted by poona
As the buffing pad gets black, you can rinse it out if you like. I tend to use a pad for a while then take the pad and mandrel, wet it, add a drop of dish soap and rinse it out. Give it a good squeeze and rinse again. Squeeze with a towel and let dry for a bit. When you use it again, spin it with the Dremel at max speed for a minute to puff it back up and get any residual moisture out.
You mentioned in another thread you didn't opt for the flex-shaft but you may want to consider it for improved control. They also allow for a lighter touch and better angles.
Have fun!
v/r
Allen
Yeh I can see flexi shafts on ebite for quite cheap.
How many flap wheels and at what grit do you use?
Is there a standard size you guys use for buffing/polishing wheels aswell?
As you remove metal, it is easy to create a new and varying relationship between the edge and the spine when honing.
For instance if you had a lot of pitting or staining near the toe and you removed it, but did not have to do the same further back on the blade....this can make honing more challenging later in the process.
I'd get a fair amount of polishing/felt pad wheels as well, they get dirty quite fast.
To clean them a bit in between I pass them on sanding paper now and then.
Thanks guys, I'm really looking forward to this project when I get time after my exams.
Graham, the top one shows correct use. Now, when you get to the face side of the blade, the heel part either has to be done left-handed or VERY carefully with the flaps rotating into the edge (I keep it well pressed into the wood so there's no lift).
One flap wheel is more than good enough for 10 blades.
I do about 2 passes with a flap wheel of one grit per blade.
Easy on the pressure.
Ah excellent Ilija.
What grits do you use for the wheels. I've seen quite a few to choose from.
What I'm thinking is that I can remove rust/staining and polish the blade all with the dremel.
Satin..
I start with 120, do 240 and finish with 400 (1.5" diameter, 0.5" thickness)
Mirror..
That's already radial bristle disc territory.. I've picked up 3/4" ones from smallparts.com (three of their highest grits). You have to use a minimum of 4 to get a good spinning "brush". That's why I picked up a dozen in each grit.
If I'm dealing with really minor surface stuff and no pitting, I just use a polishing compound and a felt disc.
That's excellent mate. Good to now know the grits I need.
This thread has filled me with a wealth of knowledge now. So glad I started it.
Thanks to all who contributed.
Another option after the 120 grit flapwheel is to start using the dremel abrasive buffs. They come in 180, 220, and 380 grit (I believe) colored tan, black, and purple respectively. I don't remember the cost comparison but I believe they are reasonably priced and I get much better control, personally.
I never had control issues with the flap wheels.
Graham.. One more tip.. Before you start with the flap wheels, use a wire brush wheel to clean the rust from the jimps on the tang. After that, you can polish the tips of the jimps with the flap wheels and get a pretty good visual effect.
I'm gonna save this thread in my favourites for future reference.
Thanks Ilija!
Glad to be of some small service :nj