Thread: Flap wheel rotation

Thought this deserved its own thread as opposed to hijacking the other one.

Ilija, one question. When you speak of having the flap wheel turning away from the edge which one of the pics are you referring to? I think it's the top one but want to just clarify.

Also why did you have to polish the 'dangerous section' the way you did - is that just the best way to get at that piece of metal on the blade?

Thanks for your time on this.

Graham - the top one illustrates how I use the flap wheel.

I haven't used one (yet), but if I had to choose I would go with the 1st illustration, this to avoid the flaps rotating into the edge.

You are correct sir with the 1st pic.

Even with a buffing wheel, the blade edge can quickly "grab" the wheel and the results are generally disasterous to a blade (and the wheel)! This problem is magnified if you are working a spike point and get a little too close to the point!

I will try to set the blade flat on a smooth surface (an old flat board) and work from the spine down toward the edge. Always work slowly and ALWAYS be aware of the direction of rotation!

Yup, the top one is the one to strive for. not just for a dremel but also on a buffing wheel. sometimes the edge get closer to the wheel an you think and it will pull the blade.better to be pulled to the spine then to the very edge.


the bottom one is a good way to chip or crack the blade, not a nice lesson to learn. the blade can be pulled and you wind up smacking it on the mandrel... and using foul language

Also want to ask. How much pressure are you guys using when polishing using a dremel ?

Originally Posted by poona

Also want to ask. How much pressure are you guys using when polishing using a dremel ?

Very little. When polishing, let the buffer and polish do the work. The issue you can run into with more pressure is heat. Heat is a big enemy since it can quickly affect the temper of the blade. You may not think there is any heat building, but it tends to be localized. If it gets hot near the edge (where the metal is much thinner) it will have bad results! Keep the pressure light and keep the pad MOVING! A little polish goes a long way and the more abrasive you get (read compounds or flappers) the quicker you can scorch the blade.

As the buffing pad gets black, you can rinse it out if you like. I tend to use a pad for a while then take the pad and mandrel, wet it, add a drop of dish soap and rinse it out. Give it a good squeeze and rinse again. Squeeze with a towel and let dry for a bit. When you use it again, spin it with the Dremel at max speed for a minute to puff it back up and get any residual moisture out.

You mentioned in another thread you didn't opt for the flex-shaft but you may want to consider it for improved control. They also allow for a lighter touch and better angles.

Have fun!

v/r

Allen

Yeh I can see flexi shafts on ebite for quite cheap.

How many flap wheels and at what grit do you use?

Is there a standard size you guys use for buffing/polishing wheels aswell?

As you remove metal, it is easy to create a new and varying relationship between the edge and the spine when honing.

For instance if you had a lot of pitting or staining near the toe and you removed it, but did not have to do the same further back on the blade....this can make honing more challenging later in the process.

I'd get a fair amount of polishing/felt pad wheels as well, they get dirty quite fast.
To clean them a bit in between I pass them on sanding paper now and then.