I'm on pins !

I have a couple of blades that I will re-pin on day soon, and a razor that needs re-pinning at the pivot.
I know I need to get get 1/16 of an inch brass rod and I have a very small 2oz hammer.
I have noticed some razors have tiny washers on the outside of the scales were the pin is "mushroomed" and some don't. I have also found on one razor I took apart ,there were washers/shims in between the blade and the scales at the pivot pin.
Is there any point in me sourcing the tiny outside washers? What are the "internal" pivot washers for?
Should I bother using either?
Many thanks
M

I have only made 3 or 4 sets of scales so far, but I like putting washers between the razor and scales at the pivot, especially if it's wood scales with a less durable finish, or a softer wood.

Actually, I think washers on the outside are a good idea as well, it gives the peened pins more surface area to grab.

All of my razors with origional scales that don't have washers under the pins seem like they have a greater
tendency to loosen up and get sucked into the scales over time...but then again, that is over decades, so you would probably be OK. :shrug:

May I give a small piece of advice, one of the greatest tricks to pinning a razor is a very low cost practice tip.... Popsicle Sticks, pin a few together before you try on real scales.... The internal washers I find on about 90% of the vintage blades I take apart that tells me that I should put them in again...Some of the restorers are even using the nylon ones now... The external and internal washers are available from Microfasteners in all different finishes and sizes, the external ones I would highly recommend you can get the really small ones so that they look almost like factory if you want.....

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Originally Posted by gssixgun

The internal washers I find on about 90% of the vintage blades I take apart that tells me that I should put them in again...Some of the restores are even using the nylon ones now... The external and internal washers are available from Microfasteners in all different finishes and sizes, the external ones I would highly recommend you can get the really small ones so that they look almost like factory if you want.....

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I've only taken apart two vintage razors, one a Robeson had no internal washers and a Genco that had internal washers which were paper thin.

When I installed an adjustable pin on the Robeson, I used regular size (relatively thick) #0 washers as spacers. They work fine but are visible and kind of unsightly.

Anybody know were to get small super thin washers to serve as spacers?

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Originally Posted by shuredgefan

I've only taken apart two vintage razors, one a Robeson had no internal washers and a Genco that had internal washers which were paper thin.

When I installed an adjustable pin on the Robeson, I used regular size (relatively thick) #0 washers as spacers. They work fine but are visible and kind of unsightly.

Anybody know were to get small super thin washers to serve as spacers?

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You could sand down the washers if they are too thick?

maybe a jewelers supply place would have thin tiny washers

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Originally Posted by littlesilverbladefromwale

I have a couple of blades that I will re-pin on day soon, and a razor that needs re-pinning at the pivot.
I know I need to get get 1/16 of an inch brass rod and I have a very small 2oz hammer.
I have noticed some razors have tiny washers on the outside of the scales were the pin is "mushroomed" and some don't. I have also found on one razor I took apart ,there were washers/shims in between the blade and the scales at the pivot pin.
Is there any point in me sourcing the tiny outside washers? What are the "internal" pivot washers for?
Should I bother using either?
Many thanks
M

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No. 0 washers are hard to come by in Britain, but 10 BA brass washers are readily available here. PM me if you have any problems getting 1/16" brass rod.

Duncan.

Nice one, thanks Duncan. I've noticed you can get 1/16th brass rod from model train shops, they use it for pipes and things when they build steam loco's.
Do you have any recomendations for shops that sell those washers?

Thanks to gssixgun, A very good tip there.

Thanks M.

Are there any considerations for corrosion when using steel washers? My local hardware store has the correct size...but in steel rather than brass.

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Originally Posted by littlesilverbladefromwale

Do you have any recomendations for shops that sell those washers?

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Model shops, model engineering suppliers, or online from Chronos Engineering (though you'll have to buy a few to come up to minimum order price - they're cheap).

Quote:

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Originally Posted by shuredgefan

I've only taken apart two vintage razors, one a Robeson had no internal washers and a Genco that had internal washers which were paper thin.

When I installed an adjustable pin on the Robeson, I used regular size (relatively thick) #0 washers as spacers. They work fine but are visible and kind of unsightly.

Anybody know were to get small super thin washers to serve as spacers?

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Try buying some thin brass shimstock and cutting/drilling washers from it. I bought a big sheet of .015" brass and have made several sets of washers, works great and is nearly invisible.

To make em, I just draw/trace the outside diameter, mark the center, drill the center and cut to shape with sturdy shears.

They are not perfectly round, but that is hidden by the scales. If you are really anal retentive, you can just drag it edge first across sandpaper till it is round enough for ya.


By the way, they sell that shimstock at Ace hardware, Lowes, and many craft stores. They even sell silver as well!

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Originally Posted by joke1176

Try buying some thin brass shimstock and cutting/drilling washers from it. I bought a big sheet of .015" brass and have made several sets of washers, works great and is nearly invisible....

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??? The regular brass washers I get from microfasteners.com are already 0.015" thick. To make thinner ones for the pivot thrust washers, I use the 0.005" brass foil. You can use a good-quality paper hole-punch to punch out the circles, then drill the center hole 1/16". They even come out of the punch with a little curl, which is what you need in a thrust washer.

Clever bugger;)
I like it:D

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Originally Posted by Cyclophile

Are there any considerations for corrosion when using steel washers? My local hardware store has the correct size...but in steel rather than brass.

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SS under cerain circumstances can corrode and depending which grade or series can rust too. Normally SS has an extremely good and general resistance but they can be susceptible to pitting corrosion.

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Originally Posted by joke1176

They are not perfectly round, but that is hidden by the scales. If you are really anal retentive, you can just drag it edge first across sandpaper till it is round enough for ya.

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You might be able to mount the washer in one of those screw-together Dremel attachments that you use for cut-off wheels. Turn your Dremel on at the lowest speed and touch the edge to a piece of 400-grit wet-dry sandpaper... Instant round washer. :)

Josh

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Originally Posted by JoshEarl

You might be able to mount the washer in one of those screw-together Dremel attachments that you use for cut-off wheels. Turn your Dremel on at the lowest speed and touch the edge to a piece of 400-grit wet-dry sandpaper... Instant round washer. :)

Josh

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Just what I was thinking:D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JoshEarl

You might be able to mount the washer in one of those screw-together Dremel attachments that you use for cut-off wheels. Turn your Dremel on at the lowest speed and touch the edge to a piece of 400-grit wet-dry sandpaper... Instant round washer. :)

Josh

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Excellent idea!

I'll give it a try.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JoshEarl

You might be able to mount the washer in one of those screw-together Dremel attachments that you use for cut-off wheels. Turn your Dremel on at the lowest speed and touch the edge to a piece of 400-grit wet-dry sandpaper... Instant round washer. :)

Josh

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Ho ho!! I like that idea. BTW, I mic'd the brass sheet I make inner-washers from and it's .010", not 0.015". duh

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Originally Posted by fritz

??? The regular brass washers I get from microfasteners.com are already 0.015" thick. To make thinner ones for the pivot thrust washers, I use the 0.005" brass foil. You can use a good-quality paper hole-punch to punch out the circles, then drill the center hole 1/16". They even come out of the punch with a little curl, which is what you need in a thrust washer.

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That is a great idea! I like the way you think.
Simple is good.

Charlie

I have pinned 30 or 40 razors this year, I just use size 0 stainless and brass from microfasteners. I use the stainless as the pin base with a brass washer over it then the domed/peen bras rod. On the blade, I use a stainless washer on either side of the blade, I will also put a nylon washer between the stainless washer and blade which adds a little smoother action. The nylon provides a slicker surface for the blade to move against and has the benefit of being corrosion resistant. The stainless washer will not ware against the carbon blade with the nylon buffer. The nylon washers are incredibly thin so they add 0 width.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by littlesilverbladefromwale

I have a couple of blades that I will re-pin on day soon, and a razor that needs re-pinning at the pivot.
I know I need to get get 1/16 of an inch brass rod and I have a very small 2oz hammer.
I have noticed some razors have tiny washers on the outside of the scales were the pin is "mushroomed" and some don't. I have also found on one razor I took apart ,there were washers/shims in between the blade and the scales at the pivot pin.
Is there any point in me sourcing the tiny outside washers? What are the "internal" pivot washers for?
Should I bother using either?
Many thanks
M

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There is a trick I use ,I make my washers and collars out of aluminium or stainless pop rivets.
A while ago I did a piece over at The Shave Den forum called MOP 101 which showed the method I use to make mother of pearl scales at the end it shows how I make the integral washers and collars from the pop rivets. I use this method with fragile scale material because it helps to spread the load on the scales with the shank of the blade
hope this helps
Kind regards Peter

Excellent:D

The washers found between the steel and the scales at the pivot end are bearings. Classic Shaving offers pin kits for Dovo razors that include the bearings.

If you want thinner washers, you can take the #0 washers, put them on the flat of your anvil or vise and give them a good rap with a hammer. Brass is fairly soft and it will pancake into a thinner, more generous diameter washer. The only real trick is getting them perfectly round when you flatten 'em, if that matters to you for your bushing washers.

LittleSilverBladeFromWales,

Please PM me with address; I would be most happy give you some of the brass & plastic washers you need - I got a load from MicroFasteners a few months ago :)

Best regards

Russ