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Hi everyone
I'm looking to make some custom scales and was wondering if there is any deep and knowledgable reason why scales are generally so thin? I know it makes them lighter, but then there's my second Q, does it really matter how heavy the scales are? Isn't that just a personal preference kinda thing? I've always wondered if theres any good reason to have really thin/light scales?
If weight is the only consideration, I prefer to just shave with the blade itself without the weight of a handle. I did that once, and aside from the awkwardness of trying to grip the razor firmly, I had a decent shave. I've thought about just adding a small stub above the razor pivot hole as a handle for shaving with, and just keep the razor in a short sleeve for storage
I'm new, so I can't really help you a lot, but I do know that there are very few people here who like the Wapi's heavy scales. Most people say it throws the balance off, making things more work on your hands.
It could, however, be possible to make larger scales without making them so heavy. You could use a lighter wood, or you could hollow out a small channel lengthwise down the inside of the scales. For me as a newbie, however, I would be worried about a larger set of scales getting in the way of my vision.
Thanks guys,
I'm really just talking a mm or two difference in thickness, and then inlaying heavier precious metals for decorative purposes - But thinking about it now, I mean if you have a meat chopper wedge with standard scales, then you've got the 'unbalanced' story happening in reverse... Personally when I hold any razor to my face I really don't notice any weight differences, I'm just focused on using the tool. So I figure it must just be a matter of what works for you..
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jasper Kade
To me, having heavier scales can be a pain when honing, and it can throw off the balance when shaving too.
Fer honin' I like scales that are significantly lighter than the razor, that way the blade does the work and I can concentrate on form (and not maintaining even yet light pressure).
Not a big deal really, just something extra to adjust for.
The first set of scales I made were fairly thick as far as scales go, probably between 3/16 and 1/4 per side, then I inlayed a piece of turquoise on the front side. They looked pretty good but when it came to shaving and honing that extra weight caused the scales to move around too much. No matter how tight the pivot pin was the extra weight overcame it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jasper Kade
Ive thought about inlaying silver or copper wire and I dont think you need to increase the thickness a lot. A mm or two might not be an issue. I think my biggest mistake was putting the turquoise on the end of the scale, it really caused a weight imbalance which tried to "throw" the end of the scale around
The best thing is to give it a try and let us know how it works.
Bob
Weight is one thing but I believe that the question was, "can you have, and use a slightly thicker wood scale and make it more hand filling????
If you look at Dovo's Micarta scales, that is what they are doing, you can use a lighter density wood such as Yelloheart right off the top of my head, and create the same effect. To my hands a 1/16 inch thick wood scale of any kind is just too light and thin.... So I think I would answer yer question with a yes, you can .......
To add a little from my humble observations....
The thickness/weight of a particular set of scales depends on the material. I generally perfer a larger scale because of how it feels in my hand, so that means I gravitate toward lighter weight woods (like spalted stuff and cedar) so the overall weight doesn't get out of control. With less dense materials, you will want thicker/larger scales for added stregnth as well.
If I use a heavier material (read more dense) like Corian, I can get the same size/feel in the hand while going thinner.
The size/thickness/shape is a personal preference. I play with stuff until it looks right and feels good in the hand to me. You may read a lot here about "balance" but to me it is a general feel- either it's right or it's not.
I would suggest you get a few scraps of whatever stuff you intend to use for the scales. Cut some very rough shapes that feel good in your hands and put them together as a mock up. I would suggest using a small nail (like a brad) for the pivot and tape the ends together to get an idea. Once you are close to a good feel, then you can do your final shaping and sanding for apearance.
Keep in mind as you play with this, it's much easier to take a little more off of a set of scales than it is to try putting some back on if you get carried away :p!
v/r
Allen
If you cut the scales thick, say 1/8 inch after sanding, the wood tends to be quite stiff. If you are pinning a thick blade and need a third pin spacer, it can be quite difficult to get the wood to bow in at the pivot pin to get it pinned. I have made them 1/8 thick and 1/16 thick (with a dense and sturdy wood). Personally, I like the thinner wood. The scales I make are larger in height and length with the cut I use. I like the delicate appearance of the thinner scales with smaller blades (6/8 down) but on the big meat choppers I will go a little thicker. The lines balance out better and a big 8/8 or meat chopper and they need a slightly heavier scale to balance it out.
Thanks guys :tu
Really awesome answers and input all round. I'm gonna make mock ups with different materials and the loose blades I have - one is a pretty heavy American Knife Co. wedge and the other is a very elegant full hollowed sprock. That should give me a good idea of feeling for either extremes.
I'll post on my findings, and also the scales when done..
Thanks again everyone.
Usually ,but not always when people start out making custom scales they a generally much thicker than they need to be because the maker lacks the skills or confidence to have them them turn out as they should be,which is to compliment the blade in looks and balance which usually requires the scales to be on the thin side.
1/8" of an inch is about as thick as you want them to go. this question has come up a fair bit from time to time and this explanation was given to me by Bill Ellis when I started making them a while back ,and with a few sets under my belt now I`m inclined to agree with him.
Having said all that ,I guess it boils down to personal preference
Kind regards Peter
i have gone both routes. my 1st few sets were thin, around1/32-1/16 inch. then i met spazola, and he had some scales that were really thick. i thought that they looked terrific. so i made a few of those and love them. however i am a fan both ways. the thinner scales were a pain to do by hand with a file and sandpaper, but probably not to bad with a sander. the thicker ones were fine and a lot quicker. just try some both ways and see what you like.
btw, i think someone commented that my thicker bloodwood scales looked like 'coffee table' size. i shaved with this last night and love these scales.
vgod
I'll throw my opinion in the pot I suppose. As many guys have said, yes it has a lot to do with what you like the look and feel of.
There is also the matter of the spacer. If you have a tapered spacer then your scale material will need to be thin enough to allow flexion to come back together for pinning, but also will need to be strong enough to not snap. If you use a flat spacer, then I think it matters less. Which should you use? Your call, both have their place. I'm still figuring out which I like.
As for balance, I do think it has a role to play. When scales are really too heavy- you will know it. With that being said, I think it is harder to make scales with bad balance than to just eyeball things and have the balance turn out well. I take it into account but only as a minor thought. It is common sense really in what will be extremely heavy and what won't be.
So with all of that being said, I think that yes, scales can only be so thick or thin and remain "good" functionally. I prefer scales maybe slightly less than 1/8" thick I suppose, but it depends on the style of blade and the look you want. The material you use also has a big impact on what thickness will look good.
I have to say I appreciate the lightness of my Revisor in comparison with my Wapi which is like shving with a boat anchor at one end. If you can find a light weight wood that won't split too easily, that would proably be a good solution. As for grooving the middle and leaving the other side closed which I think I understood you to say you were considering, I would think you'd want both sides open to allow for better drying. I hope you post pictures when you're done.
I like to make thicker scales for my razors but I make them out of wood so they're not heavy.