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Thread: Scales: thick and heavy???
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06-26-2008, 07:33 PM #1
Scales: thick and heavy???
Hi everyone
I'm looking to make some custom scales and was wondering if there is any deep and knowledgable reason why scales are generally so thin? I know it makes them lighter, but then there's my second Q, does it really matter how heavy the scales are? Isn't that just a personal preference kinda thing? I've always wondered if theres any good reason to have really thin/light scales?
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06-26-2008, 07:53 PM #2
If weight is the only consideration, I prefer to just shave with the blade itself without the weight of a handle. I did that once, and aside from the awkwardness of trying to grip the razor firmly, I had a decent shave. I've thought about just adding a small stub above the razor pivot hole as a handle for shaving with, and just keep the razor in a short sleeve for storage
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06-26-2008, 07:59 PM #3
I'm new, so I can't really help you a lot, but I do know that there are very few people here who like the Wapi's heavy scales. Most people say it throws the balance off, making things more work on your hands.
It could, however, be possible to make larger scales without making them so heavy. You could use a lighter wood, or you could hollow out a small channel lengthwise down the inside of the scales. For me as a newbie, however, I would be worried about a larger set of scales getting in the way of my vision.
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06-26-2008, 08:23 PM #4
Thanks guys,
I'm really just talking a mm or two difference in thickness, and then inlaying heavier precious metals for decorative purposes - But thinking about it now, I mean if you have a meat chopper wedge with standard scales, then you've got the 'unbalanced' story happening in reverse... Personally when I hold any razor to my face I really don't notice any weight differences, I'm just focused on using the tool. So I figure it must just be a matter of what works for you..
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06-26-2008, 08:39 PM #5
To me, having heavier scales can be a pain when honing, and it can throw off the balance when shaving too.
Fer honin' I like scales that are significantly lighter than the razor, that way the blade does the work and I can concentrate on form (and not maintaining even yet light pressure).
Not a big deal really, just something extra to adjust for.
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06-26-2008, 09:27 PM #6
The first set of scales I made were fairly thick as far as scales go, probably between 3/16 and 1/4 per side, then I inlayed a piece of turquoise on the front side. They looked pretty good but when it came to shaving and honing that extra weight caused the scales to move around too much. No matter how tight the pivot pin was the extra weight overcame it.
Ive thought about inlaying silver or copper wire and I dont think you need to increase the thickness a lot. A mm or two might not be an issue. I think my biggest mistake was putting the turquoise on the end of the scale, it really caused a weight imbalance which tried to "throw" the end of the scale around
The best thing is to give it a try and let us know how it works.
Bob
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06-26-2008, 09:43 PM #7
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Thanked: 13249Weight is one thing but I believe that the question was, "can you have, and use a slightly thicker wood scale and make it more hand filling????
If you look at Dovo's Micarta scales, that is what they are doing, you can use a lighter density wood such as Yelloheart right off the top of my head, and create the same effect. To my hands a 1/16 inch thick wood scale of any kind is just too light and thin.... So I think I would answer yer question with a yes, you can .......Last edited by gssixgun; 06-27-2008 at 12:55 AM.
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06-27-2008, 12:02 AM #8
To add a little from my humble observations....
The thickness/weight of a particular set of scales depends on the material. I generally perfer a larger scale because of how it feels in my hand, so that means I gravitate toward lighter weight woods (like spalted stuff and cedar) so the overall weight doesn't get out of control. With less dense materials, you will want thicker/larger scales for added stregnth as well.
If I use a heavier material (read more dense) like Corian, I can get the same size/feel in the hand while going thinner.
The size/thickness/shape is a personal preference. I play with stuff until it looks right and feels good in the hand to me. You may read a lot here about "balance" but to me it is a general feel- either it's right or it's not.
I would suggest you get a few scraps of whatever stuff you intend to use for the scales. Cut some very rough shapes that feel good in your hands and put them together as a mock up. I would suggest using a small nail (like a brad) for the pivot and tape the ends together to get an idea. Once you are close to a good feel, then you can do your final shaping and sanding for apearance.
Keep in mind as you play with this, it's much easier to take a little more off of a set of scales than it is to try putting some back on if you get carried away!
v/r
Allen
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06-27-2008, 05:05 AM #9
If you cut the scales thick, say 1/8 inch after sanding, the wood tends to be quite stiff. If you are pinning a thick blade and need a third pin spacer, it can be quite difficult to get the wood to bow in at the pivot pin to get it pinned. I have made them 1/8 thick and 1/16 thick (with a dense and sturdy wood). Personally, I like the thinner wood. The scales I make are larger in height and length with the cut I use. I like the delicate appearance of the thinner scales with smaller blades (6/8 down) but on the big meat choppers I will go a little thicker. The lines balance out better and a big 8/8 or meat chopper and they need a slightly heavier scale to balance it out.
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06-27-2008, 07:20 AM #10
Thanks guys
Really awesome answers and input all round. I'm gonna make mock ups with different materials and the loose blades I have - one is a pretty heavy American Knife Co. wedge and the other is a very elegant full hollowed sprock. That should give me a good idea of feeling for either extremes.
I'll post on my findings, and also the scales when done..
Thanks again everyone.