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  1. #1
    Senior Member timberrr59's Avatar
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    Question Original Box Swap

    I am in the process of restoring a C.Friedr. ERN 3/4 (6/8), spike hollow. It came in a black fabric-covered box marked J.A. Henckels Solingen Graef & Schmidt N.Y. Anyone have an ERN Box they want to swap for my Henckels Box? My box is in fair condition. A little glue for the fabric on the lid plus some touch-up on the corners is needed. Although my ERN has the number 1 in a recess atop the spine (possibly from a 7-day set?), I am planning to find an ERN Box for this razor. This Henckels Box is a mite short for the ERN. My razor has a near 1/8 chip on the edge about 3/4 inch from the toe. I am either going to re-bevel or chop the blade for a shorty. I hate to shorten an ERN that way. Any suggestions? The blade shows very little, if any honing. This ERN on the obverse tang has an eagle or hawk attacking a snake, but not quite the same as is on the Mexican Flag. Is this an ERN logo?

  2. #2
    The Great & Powerful Oz onimaru55's Avatar
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    Things could be worse.
    Turning your 6/8 into a 5/8 or so won't be too bad. The 'shorty' idea would be less preferable maybe but they are nice and manoeuvreable.
    Sorry can't help with box & logo.
    “The white gleam of swords, not the black ink of books, clears doubts and uncertainties and bleak outlooks.”

  3. #3
    Senior Member timberrr59's Avatar
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    Wink Re-Cutting Edge

    Are not most blades tempered throughout the width? An eighth or so off the edge will still be in hardened territory I THINK. I have a Pipe that upon being polished shows a slight change in shine for about 1/4 inch from the edge. Of 7 various razors I own, this is the only one showing this change. I made a shorty once, but it did not have the balance and range of the uncut blade. It looked silly as well. One thing, it was easy to hone and strop. 5/8 is what the ERN will be. I have been lucky restoring edges, at least All nicks disappeared. I'll check Ebay for an ERN Box. This is all a lot of fun. Thanks

  4. #4
    The Great & Powerful Oz onimaru55's Avatar
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    I think you'll very safely be in hardened territory 1/8 up from the edge.
    It would be a good trick to harden only the very edge of a blade tho could be done a la Japanese sword. Don't think clay heat treatment was a European tradition.
    “The white gleam of swords, not the black ink of books, clears doubts and uncertainties and bleak outlooks.”

  5. #5
    Senior Member timberrr59's Avatar
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    Default Re-Beveled & Honed

    Finally finished reworking the edge. Less than 1/8 and smoothed as glass before making the bevel and honing. Honing, honing, and honing! Hard territory that blade! The spine was wearing faster, so I taped it after the proper bevel for the entire blade was established. I have two other German Steel razors: Black Diamond and a Engelswerk. They were both hard to get keen. They hold sharp for a long time; HOWEVER, my German razors give more harsh shaves. I have read other posts from folks having the same experience. Is there a difference in the grains of steels that result in harsher shaves? My Sheffield and American steels do seem more gentle. Those German blades really mow down the standing hair and do the HHT well. It must be my skin or beard or something. I hone and strop the same way with all steels. There is a difference, but I like my Germans and plan to restore them to a nice condition. I am still looking for an ERN Box.

  6. #6
    The Great & Powerful Oz onimaru55's Avatar
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    I have experienced the super sharp yet slightly harsh shave you mention with not just German blades. In fact some of my German razors are silky smooth. I imagine there are factors with the steel and carbide formation but maybe they require extra final honing & polish too. I find Jewellers rouge after CrO tames a lot of edges without losing any of the uber sharpness.

    BTW, well done on the new edge. Any Pics ?
    “The white gleam of swords, not the black ink of books, clears doubts and uncertainties and bleak outlooks.”

  7. The Following User Says Thank You to onimaru55 For This Useful Post:

    timberrr59 (09-10-2008)

  8. #7
    Senior Member timberrr59's Avatar
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    Default Harsh Riddance

    I am using .50 then .25 micron diamond paste on a 4"X36"one quarter inch thick balsa wood plank. It helped some. I have some jewelers' rouge (red). and will do another plank with that. I miight just have some rough- steeled razors. The English and American blades are doing well with this paste pre-stropping. One thing interesting with using several razors: some balance better than others, yet shave not as good. I have a light weight 4/8 Dixie than is a treat to use, but it dulls fast. There is not a perfect razor is there? The best one is the one we sell or trade off. Trying to match boxes is challenging but almost as much fun as just acquiring razors. No camera yet.
    Last edited by timberrr59; 09-09-2008 at 02:48 AM. Reason: completeness

  9. #8
    The Great & Powerful Oz onimaru55's Avatar
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    Everything is a compromise. That's my excuse for my RAD.
    Let us know how the rouge works for you.
    “The white gleam of swords, not the black ink of books, clears doubts and uncertainties and bleak outlooks.”

  10. #9
    Senior Member timberrr59's Avatar
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    Default Rouge Review

    My restored blade is now a pet shaver. The rouge works! I rubbed the rouge stick using the side of the stick for a uniform application to a balsa wood plank and made some very light smooth stroppings. Ater wiping off rouge, blade earned a good leather stropping. The blade loved it. No loss of keen either. It still mows standing hair with gusto. Wow, the shave went primo! Box search continues at the next gun/knife show. Sometimes I see them there with junker razors.

  11. #10
    The Great & Powerful Oz onimaru55's Avatar
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    Good one ! Glad it works for you too.

    Good luck with the box search.
    If you haven't already, an ad in the classifieds might help
    “The white gleam of swords, not the black ink of books, clears doubts and uncertainties and bleak outlooks.”

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