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I have been re-pinning razors for a short time and have noticed that some holes in the blades are way bigger than 1/16". I have gotten some 3/32" tubing which has a 1/16" hole in it and inserting that in the blade and cutting to length. Is that the wrong thing to do? I like the way the razors come out but there has to be a reason that the holes are bigger, seems sloppy to me though.:confused:
Thanks,
Richard
My story that I am sticking too, is wear from thousands of openings and closings, and honings and stroppings....:)
Yes, BTW sleeving the oversize holes works just fine....
Gotta throw this in here... I'm not sure exactly but I've heard that they used to punch out the pivot hole from the hot steel rather than drilling it like we might do today. This made for uneven, oddly shaped, larger diameter holes since punching out steel wouldn't exactly have been precise. I don't think opening a razor wears the hardened steel more than it does the soft pin... :w
Let me add that the first electric drill was founded in 1889. I'm not SURE about the punch thing, but as I said, I've only heard that. Makes sense though or maybe in combination with something else. Without an electric drill in 1850, it seems to me that hand drilling a hole in the steel would have been an awful lot of work for all the razors being produced on a daily basis.
Yeah, I've heard the punching theory somewhere too.
Not wrong at all to use a bushing but you can also use larger rod & washers if you prefer.
70 - 80 thou rod & #1 washers work. You can bulls eye with 2's & 4's as well. Gives it a chunky look but that's ok on a big wedge.
Not a restorer (yet- at least until my WB blade arrives), but my humble guess beyond what these esteemed gents suggested is that they may have purposely made the holes and pins a bit larger on heavier razors for extra stability and dependability.
Can you explain your theory please?Quote:
Originally Posted by kenneyty
Well- I make toys for a living. We often use steel pins on our prototypes for hinge pins, etc. Even with carbide steel pins, and springs light enough for a toy, I've seen pins get bent when a toy gets dropped, or the holes bored for them crack. Sometimes when space is limited for the length of a pin, the older model makers I've noticed will increase the diameter of the pin- maybe it's so more surface area of the pin can be in touch with the holes (gluing surface of friction fit).
Make sense?
That's my theory anyway, but the other guys' idea sound much more educated.
I'm working on a G. Wostenholm that is not round holed. The true diameter through the center is smaller than what it appears from the out sides. it looks punched.
I decided to fill the hole with peened copper wire. The heads of the rivet will hopefully act as built in bushings :shrug: I filed 'em down until it's just a whisker more than flush.
now if i can manage to re-drill the hole in just the right spot :thinking:
true to form I will find the hard way to do it:)
One good argument agains the 'wear and tear' theory is that the holes are often a bit crooked. If it was wear, both sides of the holes would be worn so that any irregularities would be worn away .
Another argument is that brass is a lot softer than steel. The pins would wear away a long time before the steel would be affected. Since the brass is still the same diameter in the middle as in the places where it sticks through the scales, I think it is safe to say that wear is not the cause.
I've seen this issue with severall older sheffield blades. The irregularity of the holes makes me think the hot punch theory is correct. Mechanical drilling was certainly possible in the 1800s But I once talked with a blacksmith, and he told me that he tried to hot punch whenever possible, because it was much faster than drilling. If this is still tru today, I suspect it was doubly true in the 1800 when drilling would be mechanical.
I don't think it is wear. They are all roughly the same size. One does not have to go to the wedges to find the problem just some of the 1/4 grind stuff or one with a little thicker back. The tubing works well, I just cut it a little longer then tap a little to expand it in the hole and file the excess. I was just wondering if it made any difference in the way the razor folded close. Just curious.
Thanks guys,
R