jimp cutting

Here is the tool that I have used to cut jimps on razors before hardening. I think a checkering file might be an easier way but I have been to cheap order one. Here is a thread where Chris Meyer talks about using one. I have also read on the net where people have used thread restoring files to cut jimps.

I use used a block of wood with a slit cut into so that it would be easy to squeeze/clamp the razor. The bolt is screwed into a slightly undersized hole. I used a thinned out hacksaw blade to cut the grooves. The big washer on the bolt acts as the stop to locate the jimps. I used a ¼-20 bolt and did one complete revolution between cutting the jimps.

Charlie

that's very resourceful~!

cool. thanks for showing your method. could you put in some shots of finished jimps? how did you thin the saw blade?

I think it critical that a tool or fixture be used to make these things consistent. it just throws the entire look of a good blade off if the jimps are cut with the spacing off or the depth different jimp to jimp.

I plan on getting a checkering file as soon as I have some extra $$, Chris' plan of attack on already hardened existing razors is I think good for me. less room for human error :) plus I have an identical blade to the one he did it on.

Red

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Big Red

cool. thanks for showing your method. could you put in some shots of finished jimps? how did you thin the saw blade?

I think it critical that a tool or fixture be used to make these things consistent. it just throws the entire look of a good blade off if the jimps are cut with the spacing off or the depth different jimp to jimp.

I plan on getting a checkering file as soon as I have some extra $$, Chris' plan of attack on already hardened existing razors is I think good for me. less room for human error :) plus I have an identical blade to the one he did it on.

Red

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I thinned the saw blade on a coarse diamond hone, you could also use sandpaper. I counted the number of strokes to keep the depth consistant.

Charlie

Very nicely done!

Thanks Charlie!

Now I understand how it works. The big washer moves the wood block along the blade spine with each turn. It looks like I will need several blocks with different widths of groove to work with the different thickness of spines. But since most of my razors will have a 1/4" spine thickness that will not be a problem. I like this solution better than using just a checkering file. The bearing surface on the wood block will help insure a consistent straight line.
I can see the utilty of drilling a hole in the wood and inserting some metal threads in the hole for the 1/4 20 bolt. I forget the name of the insert.

Again, Thank you!:tu

Simply and intelligibly.