Thread: jimp cutting

Here is the tool that I have used to cut jimps on razors before hardening. I think a checkering file might be an easier way but I have been to cheap order one. Here is a thread where Chris Meyer talks about using one. I have also read on the net where people have used thread restoring files to cut jimps.

I use used a block of wood with a slit cut into so that it would be easy to squeeze/clamp the razor. The bolt is screwed into a slightly undersized hole. I used a thinned out hacksaw blade to cut the grooves. The big washer on the bolt acts as the stop to locate the jimps. I used a ¼-20 bolt and did one complete revolution between cutting the jimps.

Charlie

that's very resourceful~!

cool. thanks for showing your method. could you put in some shots of finished jimps? how did you thin the saw blade?

I think it critical that a tool or fixture be used to make these things consistent. it just throws the entire look of a good blade off if the jimps are cut with the spacing off or the depth different jimp to jimp.

I plan on getting a checkering file as soon as I have some extra $$, Chris' plan of attack on already hardened existing razors is I think good for me. less room for human error plus I have an identical blade to the one he did it on.

Red

Originally Posted by Big Red

cool. thanks for showing your method. could you put in some shots of finished jimps? how did you thin the saw blade?

I think it critical that a tool or fixture be used to make these things consistent. it just throws the entire look of a good blade off if the jimps are cut with the spacing off or the depth different jimp to jimp.

I plan on getting a checkering file as soon as I have some extra $$, Chris' plan of attack on already hardened existing razors is I think good for me. less room for human error plus I have an identical blade to the one he did it on.

Red

I thinned the saw blade on a coarse diamond hone, you could also use sandpaper. I counted the number of strokes to keep the depth consistant.

Charlie

Very nicely done!

Thanks Charlie!

Now I understand how it works. The big washer moves the wood block along the blade spine with each turn. It looks like I will need several blocks with different widths of groove to work with the different thickness of spines. But since most of my razors will have a 1/4" spine thickness that will not be a problem. I like this solution better than using just a checkering file. The bearing surface on the wood block will help insure a consistent straight line.
I can see the utilty of drilling a hole in the wood and inserting some metal threads in the hole for the 1/4 20 bolt. I forget the name of the insert.

Again, Thank you!

Simply and intelligibly.