Custom flap wheels... really.

I was searching for high grit flap wheels for the Dremel. The highest I could find was 400 and from what I have read here that is the highest anyone has found.

Well, I got to reading this blog or something of someone who like to do small woodworking (model building or something). And this person uses a split mandrel where you can slip in whatever grit sandpaper you want and have your very own custom, two flap, flap wheel.
http://www.cooltools.us/v/vspfiles/p...POL-605-2T.jpg

A Google seach led me to this place...

Cool Tools - We make the coolest tools for Precious Metal Clay (PMC) Art Clay Silver (ACS) jewelry

I already put in my order. :)

The writer goes on to say that 1/8 rubber dental retention rings available over the counter at any pharmacy will do a great job of holding the paper in place. I will report on how it works.

:gl:

I was thinking about trying, and just hadn't had the time, to make flap wheels. it looks like if I cut up the paper I could make a form and lay it in there and press in epoxy through the core to bond it. looks like most of the flap wheels I get are only that.

this looks a lot easier, let us know how it works out. I'm guessing if the speed were run high it would help compensate for the fewer flaps.

Red

Cool idea. I can visualize slipping a strip of paper in the slot of the mandrel; I can't visualize how you'd then secure it with a small rubber band and allow for it to flap.:thinking::thinking:

Chris L

When I get home tonight from work I am going to take a pic of what I use for "Power" sanding hollow grinds.... After you get done laughing hysterically you will probably say "Holy Moly Batman" that could work, and :cen it sure is a cheap solution....

Greasless compounds can be applied to the buff of your choice to make custom sanding wheels. I think this stuff is really underutilized.

Do a group buy, a little goes a long way.

Charlie

My friend, Doc Molenaar, and me have used the greasless compounds on knives for the past 2 years. They work very well. They are water based so the steel cleans up easily, no wax or grease. Follow the instructions to build up the initial "head" and then apply more while using the buff.
Always keep the tubes sealed or the water evaporates and the compound gets hard. To restore moisture just set the open end on a water soaked paper towel.

I am not sure what the policy is about linking to other forums but there is some good pertinent information here. This is the way I make my coarse buffs.

Charlie

Hey Charlie, I tried that method awhile back and found that, initially, the buff will spray off a bunch of abrasive then settle down. Did you use eye protection and "break-in" the buff before using it?

Randy,

Yes it is a mess in the very beginning, I definitely stand to the side. The only problem I have had is having chunks of glue breaking off and being held on by a few strands. Those chunks tend to grab the blade, not enough to come out of my hand but enough to scare me. I use my white knuckle monkey death grip when buffing razors and try to stay out of the flight path.

I think that it is a good method that could be applied to any size wheel.

Charlie

Quote:

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Originally Posted by spazola

Randy,

Yes it is a mess in the very beginning, I definitely stand to the side. The only problem I have had is having chunks of glue breaking off and being held on by a few strands. Those chunks tend to grab the blade, not enough to come out of my hand but enough to scare me. I use my white knuckle monkey death grip when buffing razors and try to stay out of the flight path.

I think that it is a good method that could be applied to any size wheel.

Charlie

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:roflmao:roflmao:roflmao

I believe that master Pai Mei used that when he fought the 9 Wu Shu Devils of Shao Zan Temple... :D

(Sorry for the offtopic, but I was reading in fascination when this one made me laugh out loud...my coworker's are all scowling...)

i made mine out of a ugley stick fishing rod the solid glass type about 4 inches long and with a split in the narrow end about 1 1/2 inches long i put the big end in a dewalt hand drill and it does a great job total cost paper only.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by spazola

I am not sure what the policy is about linking to other forums but there is some good pertinent information here. This is the way I make my coarse buffs.

Charlie

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Our policy is : 'we don't care. really'

I know that there are forums that prohibit this, but imo that is a sign of insecurity 'omg people might find out we are not the only forum on the internet...'

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Bruno

Our policy is : 'we don't care. really'

I know that there are forums that prohibit this, but imo that is a sign of insecurity 'omg people might find out we are not the only forum on the internet...'

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:rofl2::rofl2::rofl2: I love that statement!!!!!!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gssixgun

When I get home tonight from work I am going to take a pic of what I use for "Power" sanding hollow grinds.... After you get done laughing hysterically you will probably say "Holy Moly Batman" that could work, and :cen it sure is a cheap solution....

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Glen where is the post you promised:rofl2:

Quote:

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Originally Posted by FastEdge

I was searching for high grit flap wheels for the Dremel. The highest I could find was 400 and from what I have read here that is the highest anyone has found.

Well, I got to reading this blog or something of someone who like to do small woodworking (model building or something). And this person uses a split mandrel where you can slip in whatever grit sandpaper you want and have your very own custom, two flap, flap wheel.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Chris L

Cool idea. I can visualize slipping a strip of paper in the slot of the mandrel; I can't visualize how you'd then secure it with a small rubber band and allow for it to flap.:thinking:

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Hi gents,

Sorry for bringing this up, but I'm curious about what these split mandrels can do. Just like Chris L, I'm guessing the we start by putting the sand paper in the slot and then we wrap the mandrel around with the sand paper and then what?
I'm sorry, but I'm not visualizing how can we "dress" the dremel with sand paper to look (and work) like a sanding drum or flap wheel.

Thanks for any additional help.

stuff the slot with strips of sandpaper... the rubber band goes on the mandrel right above the sandpaper, then slide it down just until it's pressing on the paper strips. this will keep the paper from falling out of the slot. you end up with a basic flap wheel.

Thanks, but I wasn't picturing a rubber band. What's its purpose again?
Anyone with pictures of a split mandrel transformed into a flap wheel or sanding drum could post the pictures to clear my mind.

Thanks