Thread: Custom flap wheels... really.

I was searching for high grit flap wheels for the Dremel. The highest I could find was 400 and from what I have read here that is the highest anyone has found.

Well, I got to reading this blog or something of someone who like to do small woodworking (model building or something). And this person uses a split mandrel where you can slip in whatever grit sandpaper you want and have your very own custom, two flap, flap wheel.


A Google seach led me to this place...

Cool Tools - We make the coolest tools for Precious Metal Clay (PMC) Art Clay Silver (ACS) jewelry

I already put in my order.

The writer goes on to say that 1/8 rubber dental retention rings available over the counter at any pharmacy will do a great job of holding the paper in place. I will report on how it works.

I was thinking about trying, and just hadn't had the time, to make flap wheels. it looks like if I cut up the paper I could make a form and lay it in there and press in epoxy through the core to bond it. looks like most of the flap wheels I get are only that.

this looks a lot easier, let us know how it works out. I'm guessing if the speed were run high it would help compensate for the fewer flaps.

Red

Cool idea. I can visualize slipping a strip of paper in the slot of the mandrel; I can't visualize how you'd then secure it with a small rubber band and allow for it to flap.

Chris L

When I get home tonight from work I am going to take a pic of what I use for "Power" sanding hollow grinds.... After you get done laughing hysterically you will probably say "Holy Moly Batman" that could work, and it sure is a cheap solution....

Greasless compounds can be applied to the buff of your choice to make custom sanding wheels. I think this stuff is really underutilized.

Do a group buy, a little goes a long way.

Charlie

My friend, Doc Molenaar, and me have used the greasless compounds on knives for the past 2 years. They work very well. They are water based so the steel cleans up easily, no wax or grease. Follow the instructions to build up the initial "head" and then apply more while using the buff.
Always keep the tubes sealed or the water evaporates and the compound gets hard. To restore moisture just set the open end on a water soaked paper towel.

I am not sure what the policy is about linking to other forums but there is some good pertinent information here. This is the way I make my coarse buffs.

Charlie

Hey Charlie, I tried that method awhile back and found that, initially, the buff will spray off a bunch of abrasive then settle down. Did you use eye protection and "break-in" the buff before using it?

Randy,

Yes it is a mess in the very beginning, I definitely stand to the side. The only problem I have had is having chunks of glue breaking off and being held on by a few strands. Those chunks tend to grab the blade, not enough to come out of my hand but enough to scare me. I use my white knuckle monkey death grip when buffing razors and try to stay out of the flight path.

I think that it is a good method that could be applied to any size wheel.

Charlie

Originally Posted by spazola

Randy,

Yes it is a mess in the very beginning, I definitely stand to the side. The only problem I have had is having chunks of glue breaking off and being held on by a few strands. Those chunks tend to grab the blade, not enough to come out of my hand but enough to scare me. I use my white knuckle monkey death grip when buffing razors and try to stay out of the flight path.

I think that it is a good method that could be applied to any size wheel.

Charlie

I believe that master Pai Mei used that when he fought the 9 Wu Shu Devils of Shao Zan Temple...

(Sorry for the offtopic, but I was reading in fascination when this one made me laugh out loud...my coworker's are all scowling...)