Quote:
Originally Posted by VeeDubb65
In the short term, you are correct, what happens in the long term we can't answer with any certainty...
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VeeDubb65
In the short term, you are correct, what happens in the long term we can't answer with any certainty...
jakoblah;
I, too, would advise filling the hole, if only to promote better pinning and movement of the restored blade.
I think that the a brass bush would be the way to go, but unlike the others, I do not think it necessary to drill out the hole any further, especially since the hole is already somewhat close to the outer edge of the tang.
The procedure as I see it would be:
a) Start with a piece of solid brass rod just slightly larger in diameter than the longest dimension of the existing hole.
b) Using a fine cut file, carefully file away the brass on the sides of the rod until it has a cross section which matches the shape of the existing hole and can 'just' slide into the hole in the tang without any play. Additionally, the filed down rod should not have a pronounced wedge form, but should be rather straight and prismatic. This will take some time and patience to do properly, but isn't beyond anyone's skill level.
c) Once the brass rod fits the hole cleanly, cut off just enough of the brass rod so that it can stick through the hole, extending only something like one-half to one millimeter on either side of the razor tang.
d) Using a torch, bring this tiny bit of brass rod up to red heat for about fifteen to thirty seconds, this being to soften the brass rod for following step.
e) Now put the softened brass section into the hole of the razor, put the blade and brass combination on a smooth anvil and using a small, flat-faced hammer, peen the brass insert lightly from both sides. This will expand the brass, forcing it to grip the walls of the hole. Additionally, this light peening will work harden the brass once again.
f) Once satisfied that the brass is snug and tight as it will ever be in the hole, take a fine cut file and carefully smooth/remove the excess brass on both sides of the blade down to the level of the surrounding steel.
g) Now, locate the position for a new hole, center punch a starting mark and then drill through as required to match the diameter of the new pin.
Note that due to the shape of the existing hole your insert will never be able to rotate. Also, even if your peening has been somewhat incomplete, the insert will be sandwiched between the scales on either side and will never be able to fall out.
Hope this helps.
Ignatz
Some of my razors are a nightmare to strop because the scales move too easily for a few degrees, then momentum keeps them moving. I'm sure it's because of oversized pivot holes and/or bent pins.Quote:
Originally Posted by VeeDubb65