pasting with powders

I was not sure where to put this thread - I decided to put it in the workshop because it is kind of about building stuff.

Here is how I have been applying powder abrasive lately. I have been using a little bit of wax as a binder to keep the abrasives where I put them. Here are some pics showing how I applied cerium oxide to a couple of bench strops, One is balsa the other is denim covered.

I mix a pea size ball of wax in about an ounce of solvent (naptha, mineral spirits, lighter fluid, - anything wax is soluble in), When the wax is dissolved I add about a 1/2 teaspoon of abrasive and mix well. I used an atomizer this time too apply the mixture but a rag works nearly as well.

I have also used this technique with bars of buffing compound, I substitute the wax and abrasive with a small chunk of the buffing compound bar. Wax based buffing compounds dissolves pretty easily.

It is a little more involved than just rubbing the dry powder into the cloth or the wood, but it works very well and keeps the powder from getting everywhere. I like the way the bees wax makes the balsa feel.

Charlie

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Thanks for the post!:)
I think your on to something. I have been using some very old neatsfoot oil that seperates if left alone for some time. One part is oil and the other is a thick, fat like substance.
When I heat it up it dissolves into a homogenous fluid. Then when mixed with an abrasive and applied to a paddle strop it hardens a bit and holds the abrasive in place very nicely.
It works just fine.

I have noticed that both the red and black abrasive pastes from Dovo are not dry powder or oily but rather a thick paste, maybe it hardens like a wax?

Now we have 2 MacGyver's :)

Great groundwork Charlie and Randy. Gotta give it a try.

:tu

Thanks. I have been tyring to figure out the best way to apply my CrO and CeRo powders to felt.

I've mixed CrO with water and detergent to apply it, it seems to work ok. The Cro seemed to give pretty good results when you put it in a spray bottle liquefied like that. You can make a solution with just a little CrO and don't have to worry about over applying it.

Used detergent b/c thats what handamerican mixed with their liquid CrO, I don't know if it really does anything or not, but the CrO and the cerium seem to stick pretty well when applied with it.

FWIW I applied both my CrOx and cerium oxide with mineral oil. Just dip the tip of my finger in mineral oil, then touch the powder to pick some up, smear it on, and repeat. Both have stayed applied nice and even and work well. I can't remember who's idea it originally is, but not mine. I think I read it in the wiki.

Your process might even be better, but for now I'm not noticing any problems with the mineral oil, at least applied to balsa wood paddle strops. The strops aren't oily in any way shape or form -- you just don't use enough oil for this to be the case. This method may not work so hot for linen/cotton/felt based strops, though.

I may have applied my crom ox on balsa all wrong from what im reading here. I made a nice balsa paddle and applied the crom with norton honing oil. It went on just like paint. I have been using it everytime i hone with good results but would it be better using another metho? help anyone.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by importcarguy

I may have applied my crom ox on balsa all wrong from what im reading here. I made a nice balsa paddle and applied the crom with norton honing oil. It went on just like paint. I have been using it everytime i hone with good results but would it be better using another metho? help anyone.

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Your doing just fine. Oil & powder smeared on a substrate has been used by a lot of us with excellent results. This is just another method.:)

The only real test is "does it work"?

I posted this to show people what I have been doing. It is not THE way to do it, it is just another arrow in your quiver.

My favorite pasted strop is a linen strop with dry powder (cro2 and 1.8 boron carbide) rubbed into to it.

I like to try different things and experiment. I have read on this forum before about chrome ox being messy. This would be one method that could be used to keep it tidy.

Charlie

Hi my name is Glen and I am a complete moron, but is that candle wax??????????

Quote:

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Originally Posted by importcarguy

I may have applied my crom ox on balsa all wrong from what im reading here. I made a nice balsa paddle and applied the crom with norton honing oil. It went on just like paint. I have been using it everytime i hone with good results but would it be better using another metho? help anyone.

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I agree with Randy here. Actually, Norton honing oil is exactly what I use when mixing chrome ox and applying the mixture (just like you've said it is like a thin paint) to balsa, basswood, etc.

As a related aside, I don't like "painting" leather strops with this mixture, only wood. Why? The oil alters the draw of the leather and the chrome ox powder is so fine that it's easily rubbed into dry leather with no need of a carrier; just wipe off the excess dry powder. As an aside related to this aside, I personally don't care for using chrome ox on a hanging strop. For me it's too easy for edge rounding to be a factor for me. I think stropping technique can come into play here.

Chris L

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gssixgun

Hi my name is Glen and I am a complete moron, but is that candle wax??????????

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Hi my name is Charlie and I am a moron,

I used beeswax but any type would work.

Now if I can remember where I put my brick, I will go back to honing.

:idea:

Another way to apply CrOx to a strop is to make a mixture from it with vaseline. You can make a pretty good polishing compound this way.
Made my CrOx strop this way, and it works fine. Besides You can use this compound for polishing a blade, etc.

This post covers my personal effort and results with some pix.

http://straightrazorpalace.com/strop...formation.html

Second on the mineral oil. I used it on a felt paddle strop. Just enough to make the nitrile gloves shiny, then wipe over an area of the felt. Repeat until coated.

Then I grabbed a tiny piece of tinfoil, which I bent into a tiny spoon. After taking a bit of CrOx from the tub, i LIGHTLY sprinkled it over the strop and proceeded to rub it in thoroughly.

The only problem with my method is that the "felt" I used was synthetic, and did not absorb the mineral oil. Using the paddle leaves a faint greenish tinge to the blade which must be removed before proceeding to the leather.

However, this strop is otherwise quite tidy. I guess you can either clean the razor or clean the workplace. Or maybe get some "felt" that would absorb the oil a touch better. I'll have to check to see that this info is still correct, haven't used the paddle since a couple days after it was made, which was a few weeks back.